This is ST2 lister and this is 1800 rpm and designed to have one flywheel acting as blower to cool the heads/cylinders.  This is ST2 16/2.

This particular engine have fuel lines manifold prone to cracking and leak fuel into oil IIRC.  Might be good idea to build a better fuel manifold.

Cheers, Wizard

I thought so.

I find chlorined chemicals too harsh and I now avoid to use it unless absolutely have to, but spray stuff and let wind blow vapors away from me.  I also use acetone only on swabs to spot clean from time to time.  (cleaning flux off solder joints).

Varsol is about as strong as I can stand it, that why I like using water-based degreasers.

Cheers, Wizard

I also vote for my disturbed state about this windings condition of stator and rotor.

Get the gunk out with degreasers and have motor shop check it out and baked to dry out, if test passes the insulation test, dip both for insulation renew and mechanical integrity JUST in case!

Cheers, Wizard

11hz do you mean periodic oscillation of frequency at that 11Hz?  With massive flywheels the oscillation should not be that big like 2 to 5hz spread around 60Hz even at that 11Hz.  Shouldn't be a problem, even that oscillation at 11Hz is not high frequency enough for a induction motor.  What is most sensitive is waveform quality.  Jagged waveforms from a ST is multiplies of frequencies added together even it is 60Hz.  Any spikes, sharp corners etc *are* noise and high frequency because of sharp transitions is what overheats and causes losses.

Had a particular SMPS design that it has POOR design that is overheating a diode and killing the bulk filter capacitor on the 13V, due to waveforms not smooth due to it's running in wrong spot based on IC and particular transformer.  When they changed the IC to different IC in the SMPS even kept same basic design of SMPS, overheating went away.  Irony of this, all other outputs like 60V, 135V, 18V capacitors unaffected!
Second irony is same SMPS had no problem in same chassis if guide plus module is not used therefore removes the need for medium power standby.

Cheers, Wizard

Unless you do the SOM style with heavier flywheels.  Both on engine and flywheel on the generator head.  This should quit the flicker.

Cheers, Wizard

Nothing.  Just shine bright flashlight into the LCD that you are view, you'll see hint of graphics going on.

That is another troubleshooting methods.  In your case, your backlight *is* working and screwing up the graphics at the LCD itself.  This can happen.  Be certain about it as sometimes the wiring between LCD and mainboard can be a problem that why we ask about pulling the keyboard out, turn notebook on, press down on the LCD connector at the mainboard to see if there any changes while on.

Cheers, Wizard

That my views as well on tolerances of religions.  It is the extremists that is giving earth's nations growing pains.

Cheers, Wizard