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Messages - adhall

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Engines / Re: Overtemperature Protection
« on: October 10, 2009, 05:05:42 AM »
So, what about this, then:

Item                                 Snap Disc Control
Type                          Limit, Automatic Reset
Switch Action                          Open on Rise
Switch Type                                       SPST
Temp. Range (F)                        210 to 250
Element Type                                     Flush
Height (In.)                                       1 1/2
Width (In.)                                        1 3/4
Depth (In.)                                              1
Circuit #1 Switch Closes @ (F)                210
Circuit #1 Switch Opens @ (F)                250
Differential (F)                                        40
Inductive Amps @ 120V                           10
Inductive Amps @ 240V                           14
Pilot Duty Contacts (VA)                         125
Resistive Amps @ 120V                            25
Resistive Rating 240V                              25
Voltage Range                            120 to 240

And all this for a mere $22.63 USD.

It doesn't offer the manual reset function, but you could easily implement that with a relay.

Best regards,
Andy Hall

Gee, I live in Elma--that's only about 25 miles further away...

Best regards,
Andy Hall

General Discussion / Re: Bl**dy copper!
« on: August 25, 2009, 04:44:41 AM »
Some advice based on personal experience: Don't use steel wool to clean the copper prior to soldering. It turns out that steel wool has oil in it...

Best regards,
Andy Hall

Generators / Re: Difference between 3 phase STC and Stamford heads???
« on: August 13, 2009, 04:51:59 AM »

I'm thinking that the output power is only 2/3 the full rated output. Here's why:
Basically you have one leg with two windings in parallel (low voltage connection) and the other six windings make up the zig-zag configuration in a weird looking series/parallel circuit. The zig-zag connection produces that phase shift the results in the two legs being 180 degrees out of phase so that you have "normal" North American 120 / 240 VAC three wire power. That being the case, you have two 120 VAC legs at the rated output current instead of three 120 VAC legs at rated output current as you would have with a 120 / 208 3-phase connection.

Best regards,
Andy Hall

Generators / Re: Difference between 3 phase STC and Stamford heads???
« on: August 13, 2009, 04:07:20 AM »
For what it's worth, a number of years ago I used a 12-wire Stamford head to make a frequency convertor (60Hz to 50Hz). I know that one could be connected for single phase output--it used a zig-zag winding configuration. I don't remember if this configuration gave full rated output power--somehow I doubt that it did. And I don't know if this is generally true of all 12-wire heads.

Looks like I don't know more than I do. That happens as you get older...

Best regards,
Andy Hall

Engines / Re: Infered temp tester
« on: June 20, 2009, 02:45:24 AM »
The emissivity is only one of the factors involved.

The temperature indication is also affected by the the angle between the line of sight and the target. You will see a maximum reading when the device is pointed straight on at the target. The indication will drop off if you angle off in any direction.

Another factor is the size of the field of view with respect to the target. As you move farther back, the field of view will increase. If the field of view grows to include objects that are at different temperatures than your target, then the temperature indication will go up or down according to the weighted average temperature of everything the device can "see".

In other words, to get consistent results, you should shoot straight on at your target from the same distance each time. For small targets, get as close in as the device will allow (look at the spec sheet to find what the minimum sensing distance is).

By the way, some of these IR temperature guns have a laser pointer built in which helps considerably with hitting your target consistently.

Best regards,
Andy Hall

Engines / Re: Cooling questions
« on: May 22, 2009, 04:58:18 AM »

It appears that this type of clamp is used on antique cars. Take a look at the picture on this web page:

And here are some folks that sell them:

I don't see 1-1/2" in the list, but maybe 1-5/8" would be close enough. The price is a bit high, unfortunately.

Best regards,
Andy Hall

Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Resilient mount slow speed
« on: May 01, 2009, 03:49:22 AM »

Here is a link to information on the Hyundai engines:

They list a 14 cylinder, two-stroke engine that produces 97,300 kW @ 94 RPM. (With specific fuel consumption quoted as 171 g/kWh.)

Interestingly, the site you linked to refers to another engine that produces 108,920 hp (approximately 81,222 kW) @ 102 RPM [let's not over-rev now!]  as "The Most Powerful Diesel Engine In the World". Perhaps it was at one time or is under certain conditions. (And its specific fuel consumption is quoted as .278 lb/hp/hr--which by my calculation is 169 g/kWh.)

Best regards,
Andy Hall

Listeroid Engines / Re: How to remove the inside portion of the COV ?
« on: April 27, 2009, 04:46:50 AM »

Why don't you try using a slide hammer to remove the stubborn bit? I work on various old, corroded things at my day job and find this tool very effective. The mechanical shock really helps to break things loose.

Here is an example of what I mean:

By they way, no need to spend $45.00 USD on one of these. It's easy to make one (just look at the picture). Or you may be able to rent one at your local auto parts store. Be careful not to pinch your fingers, though...

Best regards,
Andy Hall

Everything else / Re: Frequency meter
« on: March 26, 2009, 02:49:39 AM »
Here's a circuit diagram for you:

I would use a small step down transformer to provide low voltage AC for the 9 - 12 VDC power supply and also use this as the input to IC1.

A slightly more elegant solution might be to replace IC1 with another 555 (or, more likely, the second half of a 556 dual timer). IC1 is acting as a comparator to "square up" the sine wave signal to provide a sharp, negative going signal to trigger the 555 timer. Here is a circuit for using a 555 to do that function:

Best regards,
Andy Hall

Everything else / Re: Air Compressor
« on: March 01, 2009, 05:03:46 AM »
- Peak 5 hp, 13 amp
- Running 2 hp, 6 amp 
- 120V ~ 60Hz

Let's do some math here. The results are interesting:
    Input: 6 Amp X 120 V = 720 W
    Output: 2 Hp X 746 = 1492 W

So, according to the nameplate, the motor power output is more than twice the electrical power input and that is assuming unity power factor and 100% motor efficiency. If you assume a power factor of .8 and efficienty of 85%, then the ratio becomes even more extreme. (More than 3 to 1.)

Wow! I want some motors like this for my perpetual motion machine!  ;D ;D (Tongue planted firmly in cheek.)

Best regards,
Andy Hall

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister paint colour
« on: February 17, 2009, 02:59:45 AM »
not sure who Burrel are...

Burrell was another manufacturer of steam traction engines. Here's a link to a picture of one:

Best regards,
Andy Hal

Listeroid Engines / Re: 6/1 Electric start
« on: February 12, 2009, 01:49:09 AM »

Nice work! I have been wondering how well this arrangement would work. I'm pleased to learn it was successful.

I am curious about this is how much power is lost spinning the flex plate at the higher RPM (as opposed to mounting it on the engine). Do you suppose you could do a comparison of fuel consumption with and without the flex plate in place?

Best regards,
Andy Hall

Listeroid Engines / Re: Oooops !
« on: January 24, 2009, 08:12:21 PM »
I also need to get a decent battery and a smart charger for the electrics. I will abandon the air starter and go with an electric starter as well.
Anybody have a suggestion for a relatively smart charger that is affordable ? This thing will be connected all the time and I don't want it frying the batteries. Given that the electric start will be operated let's say 4 times a day but the charger is on 24/7/365, any thoughts on what capacity the charger should have ?


Check this out:

I have been using this model for several years on batteries ranging in size from motorcycle to diesel pickup truck with good results and no problems with overcharging. You should be able to pick one up for less then $40 USD if you shop around. If you need to re-charge faster, the same company makes larger sizes, but bear in mind there is no harm in charging slowly.

Best regards,
Andy Hall

Listeroid Engines / Re: Easy frequency/speed monitoring
« on: January 10, 2009, 04:50:51 PM »
What do you mean when you refer to a "dry contact output"?  Is this a non-wetted (as in non-mercury) relay closure contact?

In the industrial controls world, "dry contact" means a relay contact that is electrically isolated from the power source that controls it--as opposed to an output device which supplies power from an internal source when it is turned on.

Best regards,
Andy Hall

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