Interesting video.  I took the cover of my engine off just after shutdown and the air was a mist of oil which I don't seem to see here.  Also, I'm surprised to the oil lines to the roller bearings.  Unlike bushings, roller bearings can be damaged by too much oil and in many cases the problem is to keep too much oil from getting to them (some applications use slingers etc. to keep the oil down in the rollers).  I too would have thought that there would be more affect on the oil in the sump.

I installed an oil pump and remote oil filter on my Ashawmegh but I brought the oil back into the case at the deck bolt over the off side camshaft bearing.  This way that bearing gets plenty of oil (which it normally does not) and this may be why I have more oil in the air inside my case. 

I just got back from Maine last night.  It was a very nice trip and quite a change from summer out here in the west.  I went back to visit family and introduce them to my bride to be but on Monday I made the trip up to Bangor to visit Central Maine Diesel.   Phil took some time to show me around.  Listers are only a small part of their business but they have a good stock of listeroid parts on hand.  The major part of their business is in much larger industrial generators.  Phil showed me the projects they are working on including a big oil press attached to a 12/2.  The purpose of my visit was to pickup a spare head for my 6/1.  Phil gave me a good price on the head, which I brought home as carry on!  This saved me the shipping costs but at 46 pounds I can't say it was not work. 

In addition to a nice visit, Phil turned me onto a great antique store where I found a bunch of Starrett machine tools at amazingly  low prices. 

Just wanted to say thanks to Phil for the hospitality.

Ok. I'm headed back to Maine in a couple of weeks to visit family and I was thinking of dropping by Central Maine Diesel, picking up a spare head and brining it back on the plane as carry on luggage.  Crazy I know but it would be a ton cheaper than shipping!  Anyway, I don't remember what they weigh (actually I never weighed mine, I just recall it as being heavy!).  Anyway, can anyone tell me what they weigh?

Signed, Crazy in Nevada  (AKA Reno-Speedster)

I made a bracket welded to a flat plate that bolts between the air intake and the head (drilled to allow air flow of course).  It holds the drip oiler above the rocker assembly and the two are connected by a clear line.  I put a picture up here a while back but I don't know if it has timed out.

Yes, you have to make sure that the oiler is off or it tends to drip.  However, the oil in the line goes down very slowly in mine and it seems to work fine. I made a new block and shaft for the rocker assembly so that the shaft is square.  I ground the rocker faces square and put a pretty good radius on them (though if you check here you will see that you could write your Ph.D. dissertation on shaping the rocker face!).  I keep them coated with a glob of assembly lube and they seem to be doing fine. 

The oiler is a bit of a style thing for me.  Whats a stationary engine without one?  I bought mine on E-bay.

Don't be sorry, it was a good lecture.

OK. I have my Listeroid 6/1 with an ST5 wired for 110V up and running at the ranch.  Its an off grid set up and always will be.  I have wired it to a panel with a 35 amp master breaker between the generator and the panel to prevent overload and protect the generator.

Three wires come from the generator.  One is a ground from the case itself which is wired to a ground buss in the panel.  In turn the ground buss is connected by a ground wire to copper ground rod cast into the foundation of the gen shed.  One of the hot wires from th head is wired to the breaker bar and the other is wired to the insulated bar (often called the Neutral bar) in the box.  I only have one plug and a light wired to one breaker at the moment but  so far everything I have plugged in works fine, including a compressor a TV and a VCR.

The things that puzzle me are these...

1) all the wiring books talk about two "hot" and "neutral" lines from the grid but I don't see how this translates to the generator.  I have two lines from the generator (wired 110) that complete the circuit and a ground to the case.  How can I  have one "hot" wire in a AC system where the the flow of the power switches direction?  And, if one of the lines out of the gen head is the "hot" line , how do I know which one it is?  To be clear, I don't want to wire it as a 220 head as I don't need the 220, I want the full amperage on the 110 circuit and I  don't have to balance the load between the two circuits. 

2) The wiring code calls for a connection between the "neutral" bar and the ground at the master panel.   I don't see how this would not short circuit the generator with my installation.

I am no electrician and what I know comes from wiring manuals and the instruction manual for the ST5.  As I say, the system works fine the way I have it wired I just want to make sure before I extend the wiring into other circuits. 

In simple terms can some one address my questions?

sorry, its 35 amps not 3.5 amps.  thats what you get for writing when you are tired.  I have 4 small buildings on the ranch and I am running wire to each of them plus one line to the shed where the tools are.  Each of the buildings will have a 15 amp breaker and the shed will have a 25 amp.  I will never run all of them to capacity at the same time but I want to make sure that I can not overload the generator so I am going to wire in a master breaker.  The generator is only about 4 feet away from the panel and I am using #8 wire between them.

Yikes!  Good luck, I hope it didn't do too much damage. I know this is the least of your worries but, why are you abandoning the air start?  I am thinking of installing one because i have an air compressor in the same building as the gen set (and I don't have the money to buy an electric setup) but now I better start working on an over temp and rev system to.