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Messages - vt woodchuck

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1
Engines / Re: Crankcase Paint?
« on: March 20, 2009, 04:11:16 PM »
Hi guys ; POR-15 is truly a great product with many uses other than surface protection. The following is some information about the product.
Por-15 paint is moistured cured. That said, it doesn't mean you can paint over a water soaked surface and have it stick.
Facts about POR-15.
surface MUST be free of oil and grease and dry to the touch.
solids- 74%,
tested at 700 degrees F, no loss of adhesion, or hardness after 10 hrs
pigment used in black is pure carbon, in silver it is aluminum
it is UV sensitive
covers 96 sq.ft. single coat, 2 coats are recomended
it is impervious to gasoline, oil, chromic acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, caustic soda, 50% sulfuric and hydrofluoric acids.
DO NOT SPRAY WITHOUT USING ORGANIC VAPOR RESPORATOR OR FRESH AIR SUPPLIED HOOD. Contains polymeric isocyanate derivatives. It is too expensive spray even with HVLP equipment. It is self leveling. A bristle or foam brush will leave a streak free finish.
DO NOT SHAKE THE CAN, stir gently ( like a martini ) Very little stirring is required as pigment stays in suspension really well.
If you sand blast POR with Black Beauty it will bounce off it. Eventually you can wear a hole through it, but you will not be able to get under it and chip off the paint.
Preservation of opened can: 1 drop of water will ruin a whole can of paint. Short term storage---Clean groove really good and put plastic wrap between can and lid. Turn can upside down and store in refrigerator. By inverting the can, if the paint does skim over the skim will be on the bottom when you go to use it. Use as soon as possible.
Long term storage: Transfer unused paint into a smaller container. You are trying to reduce the air space on top of the paint as much as possible. Then follow short term storage.
mike

2
Engines / Re: power steering pump as a water pump?
« on: February 26, 2009, 04:44:19 PM »
Check with your local plumber that does boiler work and ask him if he has a used circulator from a boiler replacement. You can probably get it for free or a few bucks.
mike

3
Lister Based Generators / Re: Fire Hazzard??
« on: February 13, 2009, 02:35:21 PM »
Jens: The car was a total loss. That amount was deducted from the pay off. I'm sorry about getting off topic.
mike

4
Lister Based Generators / Re: Fire Hazzard??
« on: February 12, 2009, 10:01:47 PM »
Just an example of how far the insurance companys will go to reduce what they will pay, my x was t-boned by a out of controlled suv. Progressive Ins.Co. deducted $175.00 because the car wasn't washed and waxed. This was in a snow storm.
mike

5
Other Fuels / Re: Kerosene additives for diesel eggines?
« on: December 15, 2008, 10:30:02 PM »
Hi RJ;
Unless you live in Alaska, do not use straight kero in a diesel. It will wash the cylinder walls and cause them to score. As far as I know, no oil Co. has a true refined diesel fuel any more. Today it is made by blending 70% #2 fuel oil w/30% kero. This gives the fuel the closest viscosity and lubrication to a refined diesel fuel. Most trucks on the road are using straight #2 fuel when weather temps. allow. It actually has more power in it. During the winter months, especially here in Vermont the truck stops  will generaly  blend the fuel 60/40 or 50/50. With a winter blend in the tanks of my trucks and farm equipment I have never plugged the block heaters in or had my fuel gel. I don't even own a can of starting fluid. (really bad for the engine). I hope this helps.
Mike

6
Listeroid Engines / Re: O'rings for 6/1 cylinder sleeve
« on: August 28, 2008, 10:34:56 PM »
Ken
A mechanic at a Cat engine shop that was working on my engine, told me they used Murphy's oil soap to lube o-rings, radiator hoses, and heater hoses. He said Murphy's was compatable with moter oil and antifreeze, didn't foam, and didn't harm the various rubber parts. It's amazing how much easier it is to fit hoses, especially those little short 90 degree coolant buggers. It takes very little to do the job. It comes in two forms, liquid and paste. This is also the best stuff to use on leather goods. Easy to clean and keeps it pliable.
Mike

7
Everything else / Re: Sound insulation
« on: August 06, 2008, 05:00:36 PM »
Sonex is a company that makes Industrial noise control panels. Some are treated with a fire retardent. Go to sonex-online.com for their web site, prices, and ordering. It may seem expensive, but when you figure your labor and materials and weight. These light weight panels may be cost effective. I hope this helps.
Mike

8
General Discussion / Re: Heart of Coal
« on: May 12, 2008, 05:28:45 PM »
Jim Mc;
I found your cost comparison table very interesting and helpful. Is this something you worked up, or is this table put out by a Govt. agency, or university. If not by you, where can it found and how often is it up-dated. Thanks
mike

9
Other Fuels / Re: Hydraulic oil as fuel - anyone using it?
« on: May 02, 2008, 10:33:38 PM »
Thanks for the update on transformer oil.

10
Other Fuels / Re: Hydraulic oil as fuel - anyone using it?
« on: May 02, 2008, 03:51:42 PM »
Off subject reguarding transformer oil.
Years ago I hauled several tanker loads of transformer oil used in motor capacitors and large transformers used at power plants and sub-stations. This stuff had all kinds of warning labels reguarding PCB's and other nasty chemicals. Maybe they have changed the formula since then. Be careful handling or breathing the unburnt as well as burnt vapors.
Mike

11
Listeroid Engines / Re: 12/2 counterbalanced?
« on: May 02, 2008, 03:23:10 PM »
Congratulations, I'm envious.
The fact that the cylinders are covered with plywood, and minus the heads, am I correct in assuming that this is a kit engine. Who made the engine, and where is John F. located.
Thanks, Mike

12
Maybe this what he meant--" I know that you believe that you understand what you think I said, but I am not sure that you realize that what you heard is not what I meant".

13
Listeroid Engines / Re: Overheating
« on: April 15, 2008, 09:11:59 PM »
Bob
Sorry about false start. I don't know your mechanical expierence, and I'm just trying to help, but could you be torqueing the head down incorrectly. By that I mean, are you following a pattern around the head instead of across the head. Also, each bolt should be torqued down a little at a time. Torque each bolt in 25 ft.lbs. increments.
Mike

14
Listeroid Engines / Re: Overheating
« on: April 15, 2008, 08:59:48 PM »
Bob

15
Listeroid Engines / Re: Overheating
« on: March 25, 2008, 02:14:23 PM »
Hi Guys;
May I add my 2 cents worth on re-torquing head after a couple of heat cycles. Back in my early trucking days, an old Cummins mechanic taught me to crack each head bolt loose one at a time as I re-torqued each bolt. By doing so you will gain about a 1/4 turn. Nuts and bolts will take a set and sometimes stick on re-torquing. Cummins 855's with 3 heads always seemed to leak water to the outside. His engines very seldom leaked. Also as mentioned, top of cylinder to deck height is very important. Too high, and you might  crack or warp the head when you torque, as well as water leaks. Too low, gases in coolant, blown gaskets. I hope this helps.
Mike
I really hate this site, I can't get enough work done. Thanks for letting me in.

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