Good to hear from you sirpedrosa.

in 8 hours of running it has added 5 liters of diesel to the oil, that is too much in my opinion ?
I will order new fuel pump elements from S.E.P.

Funny you talk of a new water pump, i was looking at them today. but i have been advised not to increase the pump as the extra pressure, (it pushes water 250 meters and up 30 meter high), it could break the pipes underground .... i dont need more problems

hope all is well with you.
Alex

Hi all
Thanks VP for the helpful comments.
I assumed the bush would be a better fit and not need adjusting as i was led to believe from my readings.

After your kind 5 cents i will remove crank and check bushes with marker and see where is the tight part.

Now i know the bearings need some adjustment, i feel happy i can "feel" the torque setting. But thank you, again, for the attached infor!

As the new bushes were very hard to press into the engine center brace and lower cap i thought i might have issues but i have not seen anything on people adjusting the center bushes, so i assumed they would not need any work to make them fit nicely.
I bought them from S.E.S and would think they are NOT OEM. Marked as standard but no Lister name.

I have sent them an email asking if the tight fit into the engine center brace and lower cap is normal.

All the best!

Thanks VP,

I have marked the teeth with white marks so i can now see from outside when installing the crankshaft.

Today i started to install the crankshaft.

The new crankshaft center bushes were hard to fit into the lower cap, and also the upper support inside the engine, is this normal ?

The lower cap needed the bearing tapping in with a small hammer and a block of wood, it seemed very tight but fitted in eventually. And then fitted the locating screw.

The upper bearing needed to be held in place by hand until the crank center journal supported it and then i had to lift up on the crankshaft to get the bush to sit home.

so crankshaft now supported by both end caps and center cap is only tightened by finger to hold in place as the daylight was fading.

Tomorrow with day light i will check and then tighten the center cap bolts.... if everything looks in order

I will post some photos tomorrow.

All the best

Hi VP, sorry for the late reply.

I gave the water channels a good clean with screwdrivers and pressure washer but bits of rust kept falling out.

In this region where i am there is a lot if xisto stone and iron in the water which rust metal parts very quickly so, against your kind advice, i plugged the large water opening in the head and filled the water channels with Sodium Carbonate in some warm water, left to soak for about 2 hours which is not a lot of time.
Then pressure washed it again,  and i think got all the lose stuff out now, then soaked water ways with some diesel spray.

When back together the water tank i have for cooling will be filled with rust inhibiting antifreeze/coolant so should stop any further rusting.
Normally the cooling tank was filled with river water but it has a lot of iron in it so i will have to use treated water from now on.

All the best

Alex, Gentles

Alex, please dont wanna be "GLORT" a person kicked out of the forum, for arsing forum members. And PeteDV is not helping!

Just clean up all as good as you can. You are in the right way, but dont be anxious.

We still have some gurus here - but some of them pass away with covid, and others are to old to type or see tiny letters on display - so go easy.

DONT PUT SODIUM ON LISTARD! forget sodium. clean jackets with jetwash, and after clean bores and put wd40 till being mounted.

For me so far so good. clearances and torque will be paramount.

Just my 5 cents for today.

Cheers
VP

Thanks for the reply AdeV, and VP.

AdeV, thanks for sticking with the forum, i for one am grateful!

I wasn't trying to darken any doors, rather the opposite .
I understand the older Listers are are getting rarer by the day and with less people, with real understanding and experience in them, very sadly not around to share that knowledge any more.

So thanks for taking time out of your day to explain a little more on how things are here, the information and comradery was part of me joining, in the hope that my "overhaul" might help someone along the way with there engine.

I think my hope of answers has come from not finding any "data" online about tolerances, torques etc.

After stripping my 12/2 down and now having, today, stripped and cleaned the fuel pumps and rocker arm assembly i can see i have some issues here... Photos tomorrow.

So, for me i cant find "data" on - valve guide wear, valve 'stand down',  rough torque specs for cyl/head bolts etc. I cant find a "spec sheet" of the most basic type anywhere apart from finding some rough "data" found reading old posts...

So i wondered if i could put together something to put in the WOK, if i can get some help to find those golden numbers, ball park figures in old posts here... I mean how did the guys do it if they didnt have some spec to go off ?

I have read, back in the day using certain spanners on certain nuts and a strong arm was often enough to "torque" nuts etc but i dont have those spanners and worry to not torque them enough or over torque them.

You can't just put a head on an engine and crank it over and expect a good service life from it.... mine is a working machine so i want to give the engine its best chance.

One of my head gaskets has had some blowing, not only was the head looking like it was re-surfaced with a brick the head nuts felt like they had large torque differences.
It's a low RPM stationary engine, i get that, and torque values back then weren't what we see them as today but finding a "ball park" to aim for would be great to keep these crude machines lasting longer.... especially for me as our's is used regularly.

My engine has clearly done some hours from what i have seen so far, and knowing some data could help me understand some of what this engine has been through.

I moved from England 11 years ago, to our now home in Portugal and was lucky to find a special place, Portugal in years past was an extremely hard place to live, under Fascist regime, people of this region barely able to feed themselves.
I am lucky enough to know the daughter of the old owner and a lot of the people that worked here. Many of these people are my friends today.
I have a huge respect for these people and how life was then in Portugal.... AND in England too in years past.

The Industrial Revolution bringing about such creations as the Lister and then, how it was shipped here and sold by one of Portugal's biggest suppliers of "agricultural" equipment directly to the old owner where it has fed this 14 Hectare farm with water for almost 60 years.

It means a lot to me to keep this engine working, where it was installed to work, all those years ago.

Not wanting to be a "GLORT" i will post some photos later today of my work so far.

All the best.

Has nobody got any advice or input on my last posts and questions?

Im a mechanic but on car engines, mainly since the 70's and any earlier engines would be sent off to specialist rebuilders, i want to overhaul this engine as best i can so i though joining a forum of people interested in these engines would be a good place to share my overhaul and learn more about these engines from some of you more experienced in seeing the insides of the engines.

I just dont have the experience in spotting defects or flaws in them, and would be nice if anyone could give some advice to me on the signs shown in my photos.

The carbon build up on piston top under valves?

The blown head gasket, could it be due to bad tightening of head nuts or maybe the last time it was taken apart they re=used the head gasket ?...... i am hoping by running the head over some sand paper will level out any low spots as the gasket only shows signs of blowing on the upper face against the head, the block side seems to have sealed well.

As i say i had not noticed and blowing so i wonder with the non pressurized cooling system if it could have been leaking into the water channels, going un=noticed?

Is it worth me asking another question?
What is a good way to clean out the rusted water ways ?  i was thinking to soak cylinders and heads in some Sodium Carbonate but would this damage the coating on the cylinder bore ?

Cheers

A little update ...

First head, cylinder and piston/rod removed is the non governor end.

Water jacket half full of sludge but rust doesn't look as bad as i thought it would be. although a few water ways in the head had some chunks in them.

This cylinder has an original copper Lister head gasket, looks like it has been blowing at some point but i have not noticed anything in the time i have being using the engine.

Also i see some light soot on the exhaust valve, is that a sign of running a little lean?

Can anyone give an opinion on the piston top, shows a valve mark but corresponding valve looks undamaged , but why the mark on the piston top?

I can also see a mark on the piston that looks like the injection inlet "mouth"...... are these marks normal to see?


All piston rings are nice and clean and free moving. will measure the rings once all parts fully cleaned.

The cylinder has no top ridge and no scratches or marks in the bore, is the ghosting ok or a sign the liner is wearing badly ?

Small end has no feel-able play and a nice smooth action side to side.

A full clean up of parts tomorrow but just wanted to post some initial pics.
I will take some better photos tomorrow also.

Thanks Dax021.

I got a reply from the manufacturer about the oil, he said a 80w90 EP fluid.

What is in there is not that thick so i will put something lighter in there, thanks for the help!

Cheers