Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Theo Arn

Pages: [1] 2
1
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 16, 2020, 08:03:22 AM »
Quote from: scott p on July 16, 2020, 07:52:22 AM
HEY THEO

I think it is probable the battery charging circuit would not be a full wave bridge but rather a half wave bridge. However that’s just a guess. Do you see any other bridges?

There is 8 volts coming from each green wire. I assume the generator was running when you got those measurements? When not running do they have continuity with each other?

Lets say we think the two green wires should be the ones that connect to the bridge. What about the other two wires that were on the full wave bridge? Are they shielded spade connectors like the green 8-volt wires? Are there other loose wires that have  the spade type connector ?

The two brown wires seem to have a dedicated plug. Shouldn’t be two difficult to sort out the corresponding half.
 
Scott

Hi Scott
The 2 green wires do have continuity when the generator isn't running. Yes the connections were shielded connections. I have a plug thet fits on the brown wire it has 2 red wires coming from it. Should I connect the green to ac and the red to dc and give it a go?
T

2
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 15, 2020, 09:03:25 PM »
Hi Scotth
The broken switc was indeed to the right of the sockets and is one of the things I removed.
I have no idea how to reinstall the bridge rectifier I thought it was for 12 volt battery charging and I didn't make a note of where the wires went because I didn't think I needed it.
I think it's maybe time to move on from it.
There is 8 volts coming from each of the green wires when earthed and about 2 volts from the brown wires.
Maybe someone knows how to rewire the bridge rectifier?
T

3
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 15, 2020, 09:28:23 AM »
Hi Scott
Thanks for the quick reply. I have added 3 photos one is the front panel one of the extra wires and one of what I think is the problem a rectifier I think. There is no continuity between the main wires and the green or brown wires but there is continuity between the green wires and the brown wires. There are 4 wires coming from the alternator.
Tom

4
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 14, 2020, 08:05:39 PM »
Quote from: AdeV on July 14, 2020, 07:45:00 PM
Quote from: mikenash on July 12, 2020, 06:25:18 AM
Ade, imho this is a valuable thread with wide-ish potential application.  Maybe it's a WOK candidate?  Cheers

If we (well, Theo) ever gets the damn thing working, then definitely!


Theo - did we definitely establish whether this is AC or DC power you're seeing? Your auto-detecting meter should tell you, I'd think?

Hi Ade
I was getting 228 AC at one stage then I fckued it up!

5
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 14, 2020, 06:38:27 PM »
I took a load of stuff off it switch volt meter etc hoping to leave just the 3 wires to deal with now theres no power. Reading on the internet seems it needs exciting and I don't know how to excite it apart from taking it for a fast car drive and I dont have a fast car! theres extra 4 thinner wires on the alternator I assume they excite it but its beyond me how it works
I did measure resistance

L1 to ground 3.5,

L2 to ground 1.8,

R1 to ground 5.0

R2 to ground 2.9.

L1 to L2 15

R1 to R2 16

I used this meter its all I have the spare one is useless


6
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 13, 2020, 02:02:45 PM »
I discovered the red wire from L2 was broken near the switch so it's been spliced and here are the results.


L1 and L2 138v

R1 and R2 131v

L1 and R1 105v

L2 and R2 120v

L1 and R2 110v


There's wires for 12 volt charging wires for volt meter and wires for the circuit breakers I'd like to get rid of them at least the 12v stiff and the meter. The 4 wires Black, Blue, Red and White are from the alternator How can I connect them? I'd like the circuit breaker to work if possible. I don't want to die but I'm prepared to sacrifice an old drill to test it.


7
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 12, 2020, 08:27:55 PM »
I can't believe it took several days before I figured out what the little lightening symbol was flashing on the multimeter for!

8
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 12, 2020, 08:00:57 PM »
First problem was battery in multi meter was weak so I replaced it. I connected L1 to L2 only a couple of volts but steady. If you look at photo 4 above theres a green and yellow wire on a connection that comes out on the front panel and there's an earth symbol there so I tried the meter black lead to there but nothing power wise. R1 and R2 connected shows 228 volts which would be perfect if it could be used safely. Connecting R1 to L1and L2 shows 115 volts R2 connected to L1 and L2 shows 115 volts on each. There's an overload/trip switch with the blue and white wires from R1 and R2 going to it, I measured the voltage there and again 228 volts.

What next?

thanks

9
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 12, 2020, 08:15:51 AM »
Does anyone think the AVR on this machine could be failing? Is it worthwhile taking it off and connecting a car battery to the brushes to check for steady voltage?

10
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 11, 2020, 08:59:32 PM »
here are a few photographs the switch is brown

11
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 11, 2020, 06:28:00 PM »
Quote from: dax021 on July 11, 2020, 05:54:52 PM
For the life of me, why don't you post some pictures?  This thread is going 2 pages now, and makes no sense at all
I'm trying to make them smaller

12
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 11, 2020, 01:52:37 PM »
I was using one of those meters that automatically detect the voltage and ac or dc. I changed to an old type meter and the voltage isn't steady L1 R1 is between 5 and 60 volts and R1 and R2 go between 50 and 130 volts. I'm thinking the guy selling it knew it needed more than a switch!

13
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 11, 2020, 08:40:16 AM »
Quote from: scott p on July 11, 2020, 06:42:59 AM
Well, sounds like you already have a functional generator with much of the wiring already in place. It will interesting to see what the nine- pin switch looks like.

At this point If all it does is switch from 120 to 220 I don’t see why you need it. Curious about you mentioning you got a minus 120-volt when you tested the L1/L2 lead. That sounds like DC rather than AC.
I was getting minus or plus 120 volts depending which way i attached the leads, red to L1 and R1 gave the negative reading and L2 and R2 gave the normal reading. L1 and R1 gave 2 volts

14
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 10, 2020, 09:38:14 PM »
Quote from: AdeV on July 10, 2020, 04:33:13 PM
If I've read ScottP's reply, above, correctly.... you should join L2 to R1; then measure the voltage from L1 to R2. This should be 240v or thereabouts.

Before you do that; just to confirm, your 120v readings are L1->L2 and R1->R2, is that correct? If L2->R2, then something fishy is going on...

Without being able to see details of your switch/socket wiring, I don't think we can diagnose further: Can you take some photos of the switch (front & back), and maybe a diagram showing how you've wired it together, and attach them to a reply (use the "Attachments and other options" link, below the message edit box, when you make a reply. Also, please reduce the size of any photos to something sensible: 800x600 or 1024x768 or similar, thanks.)

Hi Ade
When I tested the power output L1 & L2 made 120 volts as did R1 &R2. Depending on which way the leads were connected I got 120 volts or minus 120 volts . Connecting R1 & L1 the meter was reading 2 volts. I'll be taking some photos and show what I have done so far. As I have two 120 volts I'm hoping its worth sorting out
Tom

15
Generators / Re: Generator alternator wiring
« on: July 10, 2020, 09:28:38 PM »
Quote from: scott p on July 10, 2020, 06:00:11 PM
fuses breakers to avoid smoke. When  you connect L2 To R1 run  L2 through a fuse and connect to R1. NO SMOKE  When ever you are unsure of the results cover your butt.
The switch selects either 120 or 240 volts its on the front panel above the sockets however the switch is loose inside, it does nothing. I will get some photos over the weekend. some of the wires seem attached to a trip switch or circuit breaker. some appear to be attached to what I now know is a bridge rectifier. There is also a circuit for low oil sensor that kills the engine. It's hard to explain and hopefully the photos will help. Theres not much room or stretch on the wires. Tony the guy that sold it to me said the 9 pin switch costs around 100 so I would like to avoid buying one. Thanks

Pages: [1] 2