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Messages - mobile_bob

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 171
1
Petteroids / Re: Petter PC1 Engine in a Crawley 75 Tractor
« on: October 13, 2021, 08:46:35 PM »
sorry i can't help with the parts problem, but dang that is one cool little tractor!
and the rubber looks great!

so many old small tractors that survive around here have rubber that is so cracked and weather checked it is amazing that air isn't forced in from the outside.

good luck getting the old girl up and running again.

bob g

2
Lister Based Generators / Re: lister cs control box
« on: October 09, 2021, 08:15:37 PM »
have you got a schematic for this generator?

any pictures of where the missing resistor fits?

what does it control?  field?  or?

approx physical size?

it shouldn't be too hard to figure out a replacement, but need more information.

bob g

3
Listeroid Engines / Re: Flywheel energy
« on: September 30, 2021, 08:49:57 PM »
precisely 23.64356 billion years

(spoken in my best mr. Spock voice)

:)

but then again, there is the tiny matter of the 2103.77635 giga ton nuclear bomb you have to detonate within the 6/1 combustion chamber to overcome the inertia and get the planet size flywheel started... so on balance maybe that would be a show stopper?

too funny

4
Listeroid Engines / Re: Flywheel energy
« on: September 30, 2021, 05:28:17 PM »
how big?

well lets see, hmmm... i ain't smart enough to do that math required, and even if i were smart enough, and did all the math, ... i posted the answer here... i would have to... well... you know...

you have to love these perpetual motion crackpot schemes, of which the ones i find most entertaining are the motor driven generators,

"wow, i start the motor, and then flip this switch and the generator powers, the motor"
"and just to let everyone know, i have filed for a patent on the process"

:)

a hundred years from now, there will still be these sorts of things popping up.

sort of like the 200mpg carburetor, that was a real hoot.

bob g

5
Changfa Engines / Re: 165F engines back on Ebay
« on: September 24, 2021, 02:36:50 AM »
Trash?

it has done a really really good job of holding down a piece of my shop floor and keeping that part of the floor clean!  so it ain't all bad!

:)

6
Changfa Engines / Re: 165F engines back on Ebay
« on: September 23, 2021, 04:24:23 PM »
i got one in '07 in a drawing
it didn't come with a certificate of quality either!

dang!

bob g

7
Waste Vegetable Oil / Re: Thank you
« on: September 21, 2021, 02:38:24 PM »
years ago there was a lot of discussion on using oils for fuel in these engines.

i think the general consensus came down to the following

1. yes these engines will burn just about anything flammable

2. raw vegetable oils over time seem to gum up piston rings, so expect to do more maintenance or repairs.

3. raw vegetable oils (used) can have a higher acid content which is hard on injection components, particularly pumps,

4. motor oils can have a high ash content, which when burned make a fairly good lapping compound and over time accelerate ring and cylinder wear. modern low ash oils should be less of a problem, but the problem seems to be real and persistent.

having stated these, i will add my personal take

1. if you are using a museum quality lister that you deeply care about, and don't like to or want to have to do more frequent overhauls, i would recommend not using raw vegetable oils (new or used) or used motor oils.

2. if on the other hand you have a listeroid, or a changfa type engine, don't mind having to do more frequent heavy maintenance/overhauls, and have a ready source of cheap parts such as cylinder kits (pistons, rings, cylinder sleeves) and have done the math as i have you might well conclude that the savings on the cost of fuel vs the added costs of operation (labor/parts for overhauls) favors the use of these fuels, then i would recommend you burning these types of fuels.

as i see it there are two very different camps when it comes to these engines, and i agree with the positions of each for different reasons.

there are those that have antique engines that are bone stock examples of the engine type that should be preserved and protected for future generations to enjoy the operation of.  so if you have such an engine it should be protected with good maintenance, shorter run times and burn only pump fuels of known good quality.

there are also those that have either older repaired examples of the original or the various copy engines that are expected to work on a regular basis and as such the cost of operation is of primary concern. these owners might well have done the analysis as i have and concluded that parts like cylinder kits are to be considered as "consumables" no different than a paper element air cleaner, having a finite lifespan where one expects to have to replace these parts on a determined basis.

both positions are valid, you just have to do the analysis and determine which camp you are in.

fwiw

bob g

 

8
Waste Vegetable Oil / Re: Thank you
« on: September 20, 2021, 08:40:03 PM »
hey! long time no see, er hear!

i haven't been around the forums for several years, but have been around a bit more lately.

now i see you coming in and it is so good to see you are still alive and kicking.

how is tiny living working out for you?  i recall years ago your project, iirc it was you who had two 20ft containers, one to live in, one for the shop, and a 6/1 listeroid running at around 300rpm on waste veg oils and doing so quite happily.

if memory serves me, i recall commenting that project made you my hero!

you posting today, has made my whole week!

bob g

9
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: September 17, 2021, 02:56:11 AM »
i don't remember any of the expansion valves leaking while adjusting them?

that seems odd

bob g

10
Listeroid Engines / Re: Ashwamegh cooling ..part 2
« on: September 13, 2021, 01:37:45 AM »
i have never worked with a lister/oid, however i have large engines and of course the s195 changfa

in development of the s195 for the trigenerator, i removed the hopper and installed the plate, and ontop of that an old tstat housing off a little honda car from a pikapart lot.

i put a radiator off a nissan sentra circa '87 or so

then i installed a bosch auxilliary heater pump, off an old audi from the pikapart lot

i used the same theory of operation typical of heavy trucks in that the tstat is used only to get the engine up to temperature as quickly as possible.

the tstat is a 195d F unit
the little pump moves maybe a gallon/minute as it is plumbed into the drain cock port at the bottom of the cylinder casting which is 1/4" pipe threaded.
the radiator is cooled by the oem nissan electric fan, which is controlled by the oem fan temp switch

the system runs under full load between 204 and 214 deg F, so the tstat stays open and does not regulate the engine temperature.

the engine is rated at 12hp continuous, but under a closed system that is controlled like this it will sustain 15hp continuous and burn cleanly with no smoke.

the only failure i had was a blown head gasket that a happened on the test stand when i forgot to turn on the switch that provided power to the fan.  it ran up to 260F under full load and was running when i shut it down, didn't find out it had a blown head gasket until i let it cool down and tried to restart it.

new gasket, from an s1100 (an upgrade higher quality gasket that will fit) and back in business again.

i see no reason why this same theory of operation could not be applied to a lister/oid
it is my belief the controlling factor as to continuous hp rating is that it is limited to the type of cooling used,  use a hopper or convection cooling and you have to derate, use a closed and controlled system and you can get more power output.

yes hopper or convection systems are simpler, however the argument that closed systems with pumps, fan's, radiators are prone to failure, is in my opinion not a well based assertion.  modern pumps, fans, radiators and controls have proven to be very reliable and not prone to failures.

that is "if" one spends a little time to do things right.

i really believe that running these engine hotter makes a significant difference in the engines ability to burn more cleanly and by extension be more efficient.

so i like seeing folks working to include tstats, pumps, radiators and such to their lister/oids, i think there is much more that these engine are capable of delivering.

11
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: September 12, 2021, 04:26:19 AM »
Bruce

thanks for the link!

yes i agree he got some very encouraging results!

bob g

12
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: September 11, 2021, 05:41:24 PM »
Bruce

all i can say is wow, what a job you have done with this project, i for one have learned a lot from  your efforts.

another thing comes to mind when you mention the heat soaking of the ground around your unit being ~10deg higher than the ambient air.  i can get my head around that as my temperatures are quite high on the ground as the compressor/condenser unit is on the south side of my house and the house is a light tan color, a lot of reflected heat down onto the ground.

what i am thinking of doing is building a cooling tower out of cedar siding planks, a simple affair maybe 4 ft square and maybe 6-8ft tall, with a drip water system as you describe to trickle down the cedar siding slats. 

how effective that might be at lowering the temperature that the A/C unit has to operate in, because of my location in east central kansas and higher humidity levels i am not sure. however i think it would still drop the air temperatures substantially given the elevated air temperatures.

i also have a well so i don't have to use city water, however the limestone strata that all the well water around here comes through has a high mineral content... so like you i don't want to spray that water on the aluminum fins either.  and i am sure that after a summer of dribbling down over the cedar slats of a cooling tower they would have a good start at being petrified. Not that it would affect the function, the look would be less attractive, but who cares its in the back of the house and no one but me would see it.

i don't know whether something like this would be of use in your application? maybe?

perhaps some of the professional cooling guys can chime in with their thoughts

bob g

13
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: September 11, 2021, 03:27:30 PM »
Bruce

just for my own amusement

how do you have the water flow going through the exchanger? 
is it inline or counter flow?

something popped into my noggin last night, (frequently happens about 2am), that is the heat flow in an exchanger often times improves with counter flow.

just curious

thanks
bob g

14
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: September 10, 2021, 02:46:32 PM »
not something you probably would want to do at this point, but...

maybe another water cooled plate exchanger for the condenser? you could heat your hot water? for domestic hot water needs?

it would be interesting to use the heat taken from the slab and put it to use preheating water.

ok, i will retreat to my corner
:)

bob g


15
Lister Based Generators / Re: Need help with generator head
« on: September 08, 2021, 03:10:12 PM »
i would start with cleaning the commutator and brushes
the ones in the picture look pretty oxidized, and it doesn't take much to cause problems

bob g

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