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Messages - pigseye

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1
Listeroid Engines / Re: 12/2 Ash -- Extended down time start up procedure
« on: March 23, 2011, 04:36:42 AM »
You guys are great!  Thanks so much for the advice.

Pigseye

2
Listeroid Engines / 12/2 Ash -- Extended down time start up procedure
« on: March 20, 2011, 11:16:26 PM »
Hello All,
I have a 12/2 Ash that has not been run in over 2 years.  What prep is required before starting it again?

FYI, although I've been a forum member for a while, I'm still a Listeroid newbie and fairly specific instruction is greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Pigseye

3
Listeroid Engines / Re: How to reduce a twin's ground pounding, house shaking antics???
« on: April 10, 2010, 03:51:50 AM »
Hi Cujet,
How does a civilian get elastomeric helicopter blade dampers? 

Thanks
Steve

4
General Discussion / Re: Diesel Truck Recommendations???
« on: September 06, 2006, 11:46:43 PM »
I've just purchased (couple months ago) a 1990 F250 4x4 7.3 IDI Diesel, extended cab, longbox, auto tranny, with 214k, and a lot of rust, fairly new tires, and bad brakes. Paid $2000 for it which might seem kind of high but it was the best price I could find locally.

Had the brakes and rear axle seals fixed for $600.

Changed All glow plugs from autolite to Motorcraft (autozone $8.50 each) - be careful if your GPs are autolites, they can swell and tips break off in the combustion chamber.  Lucky for me all plugs came out easily.  Check out Ziggsters tutorial on GP removal:
http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/Glow%20plug%20removal%20article.html

Changed oil and filter using a motorcraft filter and Rotella 15w/40.  I'll switch to Rotella 10w/30 this winter.

Changed air filter (fram, it was what I could find quick.)  I'll replace later with something else.

The previous owner changed the coolant about 15k miles before me but did not use diesel coolant or SCAs.  This could lead to cavitation (requires rebuild).  So I changed the coolant with the green stuff and added SCAs to the proper concentration.  I'm kind of worried that cavitation has started but so far OK.  Maybe I'll get lucky.

The previous owner also changed out injectors on one side.  Not sure why only one side but it seems to run OK. 

Tranny was rebuilt about 35k miles ago.  Seems to shift good and tranny fluid is very clean and smells good. 

Still need to change the fuel filter, could use new shocks, should extend the exhaust pipe to back of truck instead of in front of rear wheels, and I might need a new Glow Plug Controller or rewire the existing glow plugs (still clicks with the Wait to Start light). 

Also purchased a bunch of other stuff for diesel maintenance, i.e. extra SCAs, Power Service, ...

So I've already got well over $1200 to make the vehicle road ready and there is more to spend.  So far, my purchase doesn't look like a very good investment.  If the engine holds up for a year or two it might be worthwhile and it has been a great learning experience.  heck I've spent a lot more money and got less education.  ;-)

Good luck and enjoy your truck.

5
Listeroid Engines / Re: What guage of wire to use?
« on: August 31, 2006, 09:59:25 PM »
I would listen to Doug, talk to your inspector before adding a ground rod at the generator.

In my situation (WI), I'm pretty sure that since my generator will be on a sub panel, the generator/panel should not be grounded independently of the main.  The rationale is this would create 2 ground points and could cause ground loops. 

Check out a picture of one of my sub panels in coppermine.  Here's the description:
This is a Curtis/Hammer main panel being used as a large sub panel. This CH is bottom of the line (cheap) but one feature I like when using them for subs is the ground and neutral are already independent. No modification is required to a ground/neutral bar like when using a Square D or QO panel.

On the left you see the neutral bar and on the right you see the ground bar. You can't tell but both bars are floating in the box but the ground bar is bonded to the box.

This sub then goes back to the main where the ground and neutral are tied together and the ground is also tied to a ground rod.  Thus only one ground is available to this circuit and all grounds and neutrals are isolated from each other until they reach the main.  Does that make sense?

I'm not sure if this will be a requirement for your locale but it probably is for mine, especially since my generator will be connected to the main through a subpanel located in the garage.

Please note I'm not an electrician.  I've done a lot of home wiring and have carefully reviewed the requirements but also have had the work properly inspected.


Good luck with your project,
Pigseye

6
Listeroid Engines / Re: Thermostat and heat storage questions
« on: August 25, 2006, 05:39:33 PM »
I'll stay out of the steam air discussion.  ;-)

Andre,
I've downloaded the old Machine Shop Practice pdfs.  interesting stuff.

Just purchased the 1971 version of Machine Shop Practice, Vol. 2

And just purchased the following 3 Audel books off of Ebay.  Not sure if the audel books are good but they were pretty cheap.

MACHINISTS LIBRARY- BASIC MACHINE SHOP
MACHINISTS LIBRARY - MACHINE SHOP
MACHINISTS LIBRARY - TOOLMAKERS HANDY BOOK

this will probably be a good start.

Thanks again to everyone else on the machining training tips.

Thanks,
Pigseye

7
Listeroid Engines / Re: Thermostat and heat storage questions
« on: August 25, 2006, 05:27:16 AM »
Hotater,
whoa, looks like a pretty risk set up.  Glad it turned out.


Jim Mc,
I'll check out the practical machinist.

Thanks


8
Listeroid Engines / Re: Thermostat and heat storage questions
« on: August 22, 2006, 10:02:38 PM »
Yes, R-8.  What is a Shell Mill Arbor?

I'll do some research and check out ebay for books.  There are just so many milling books i'm not sure which ones are worth the paper they are printed on.

Thanks

9
Listeroid Engines / Re: Thermostat and heat storage questions
« on: August 22, 2006, 08:24:16 PM »
These responses are great.  here's my status

There are no hands on basic milling or lathe courses available to me after work hours in my area.  I have found a "distance" learning course on Milling, but there won't be anything hands on.  This might not be an issue if I do my own labwork at home on my set up.   But this is truly a "paper" course, no DVDs just books and tests that I take at my own speed.

There is a very convenient MIG welding class that is available to me.  I tried to register last spring but it was full.  There are 2 more classes this fall but I'm already booked.  Hopefully later this winter.  This is a real good hands on course that is limited to 10 students since they only have 10 welding stations.  You can literally walk in off the street knowing nothing about welding and after six 3 hour sessions become fairly proficient.  you don't even need safety equipment for at least the first day.

I have rented the Fundamentals of Milling Machine Operation DVD and it was pretty good but I didn't feel like I was ready to really start milling.  There were to many things I didn't understand regarding set up, tramming, edge finding, clamping, etc..  maybe viewing more videos would help.

Hotater, any pics you can post would be greatly appreciated.  I really need to see it to learn it.

Thanks to all,
Pigseye

10
Listeroid Engines / Re: Thermostat and heat storage questions
« on: August 22, 2006, 05:48:48 PM »
This is great advice.  Thanks guys.

I have to be honest and don't understand it all.  When you use terms like anvils, jack screws, clamp hold downs, I don't know what they are or how to use them.

Here's what I have:

Enco Mill/Drill   http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=105-1132&PMPXNO=953978&PARTPG=INLMK32

This Milll/Drill came with a few extras like:
52 piece clamp down kit
Cheap worthless vise
Big Chuck which I never use
Some huge surface planer tool (see pic of accessories)

I also purchased miscellaneous cutters (including fly cutters), collets,
5" vise with swivel base, Model #425-7250,    http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=260&PMITEM=425-7250

and a

Dial Indicator, similar to the Enco Model #605-4208, http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=185&PMCTLG=00

I still need or need to do the following:

Build or purchase indicator fixturing to square the mill with the dial indicator
Square the mill - it seems pretty good for just taking it off the crate from China
Other gages?

Since I know so little about machining I don't know what else I need so I've only used it to do the most basic things like creating a flat spot on some copper rod and cutting the edges of heavy guage sheet metal.

I would love to use it for fitting thermostats into my coolant port.

I'm sure there are other tools I need to do accurate set up.

Could you guys make some suggestions?  Other gages or indicators I should get?  Maybe some books or DVDs I should watch to learn more about machining?

Thanks Again,
Pigseye




11
Listeroid Engines / Re: Thermostat and heat storage questions
« on: August 21, 2006, 11:29:46 PM »
Maybe I should just give up trying to find a use for my mill.  ;-)  And use a die grinder and just be careful.

Thanks

12
Listeroid Engines / Re: Thermostat and heat storage questions
« on: August 21, 2006, 10:37:12 PM »
Hi Joe,
Wouldn't I need a rotating table?  I'm a machining newbie so a description of what is needed and how would be helpful.

Thanks,
pigseye

13
Listeroid Engines / Re: Thermostat and heat storage questions
« on: August 21, 2006, 07:42:38 PM »
Excellent!  I'll check it out at my local Napa.

But on the other hand, I also own a mill, a benchtop Enco.

How did you machine your blocks so well?  They look like you put them in a lathe versus a mill.

I'm not a machinist or mechanical engineer and bought the mill to learn about machining.  But, I don't know how to use the mill to create a round opening in my port without purchsing or making some kind of fly wheel cutter of the correct diameter. 

What did you do?  Any suggestions?

14
Listeroid Engines / Re: Thermostat and heat storage questions
« on: August 21, 2006, 05:31:10 PM »
Hi Hotater,
Are you saying that Napa might have some premade blocks that house a thermostat and fit between the engine block and the outlet port?

thanks,
Pigseye

15
Listeroid Engines / Re: Thermostat and heat storage questions
« on: August 21, 2006, 02:39:24 PM »
DKWFlight and Everyone,
I can't look at your thermostat pic at work due to our firewall.  But from what I recall it looked like the block was opened up by a machinist.  Very professional looking.  Couple of questions.

1)  I don't think I have blocks on my Ash 12/2, in this case would I modify the engine block?

2)  Is this something I could safely do by hand with a dremmel or some other similar type of tool?  Obviously i would go very slow and be very careful.  Or do you have a better suggestion?

Thanks,
Pigseye

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