1
Petteroids / Re: Curious about an Indian Petter Type of Engine
« on: June 24, 2022, 04:17:48 AM »
The S195 is a project by one of our members on this site, and my hat is off to him for a job well done.
Home of the Listeroid - Since 2005
News:
For those who don't know, regular poster Bob (aka Ajaffa) and his wife recently lost his house and many of their possessions (but apparently not his engines!) to a bush fire. Please see this post for details of an appeal to help him rebuild. Thanks, everyone from LEF.
https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8876.0
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2
Petteroids / Re: Curious about an Indian Petter Type of Engine
« on: June 24, 2022, 04:13:09 AM »
Hi, I have read that the Chinese single flywheel engines (Changfa S195 etc) are copies of the old Yanmars (TS130 etc.), and my guess is that that is what these engines are.
Whether they are made in China, Pakistan or elsewhere, I can't say, but they don't look like Petters to me.
Yanmar TS130
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVcYN1ShvS0
Changfa S195
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOhg1Q1rd6E
Whether they are made in China, Pakistan or elsewhere, I can't say, but they don't look like Petters to me.
Yanmar TS130
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVcYN1ShvS0
Changfa S195
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOhg1Q1rd6E
3
Engines / Re: New take on an old camshaft
« on: June 04, 2022, 08:40:55 PM »
Being something of an engine geek myself I find this article very interesting... thank you for sharing.
I may be missing something but I believe the engine from the test paper is a Petteroid, and if I understand mechanical injection, more RPM requires more injection timing advance.
So the 20 degree figure may be right for a Listeroid turning around 650 RPM, but it would likely be retarded for a different engine turning 1500 RPM.
I would expect that a Listeroid turning 650RPM would have quite a knock with injection timing set at 27 degrees BTDC, but I've never tried it so I don't know.
Most of what I've learned is thanks to members of this very website, that being said I've never heard of a Listeroid turning more than 1000 RPM.
I am very interested to know whether your engine is a Listeroid, Petteroid or something else, and what RPM you are turning yours which may reveal to us whether 27 degrees is indeed a magic number.
I may be missing something but I believe the engine from the test paper is a Petteroid, and if I understand mechanical injection, more RPM requires more injection timing advance.
So the 20 degree figure may be right for a Listeroid turning around 650 RPM, but it would likely be retarded for a different engine turning 1500 RPM.
I would expect that a Listeroid turning 650RPM would have quite a knock with injection timing set at 27 degrees BTDC, but I've never tried it so I don't know.
Most of what I've learned is thanks to members of this very website, that being said I've never heard of a Listeroid turning more than 1000 RPM.
I am very interested to know whether your engine is a Listeroid, Petteroid or something else, and what RPM you are turning yours which may reveal to us whether 27 degrees is indeed a magic number.
4
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Hatz E79 - Shop manual
« on: May 30, 2022, 06:40:15 AM »
Have you tried the extra fuel device?
If you haven't, pull the throttle lever back towards the cylinder (fuel off position), lift up and hold the round knob located on top of the crankcase and next to the throttle lever, next push the throttle lever away from the cylinder until it stops. Next, release the knob you were holding and it should stay up.
This is the extra fuel cold start position. Crank engine as usual and if it starts, the governor will kick the throttle back towards the cylinder and either reduce the engine RPM or shut the engine off completely, depending on the throttle.
On most of my E79's the throttle will stay where you set it, but on one of them the throttle is spring loaded and the engine will run slow if I hold the throttle, but the moment I let it go the spring reduces it to no fuel and the engine shuts off.
Just my .02c
If you haven't, pull the throttle lever back towards the cylinder (fuel off position), lift up and hold the round knob located on top of the crankcase and next to the throttle lever, next push the throttle lever away from the cylinder until it stops. Next, release the knob you were holding and it should stay up.
This is the extra fuel cold start position. Crank engine as usual and if it starts, the governor will kick the throttle back towards the cylinder and either reduce the engine RPM or shut the engine off completely, depending on the throttle.
On most of my E79's the throttle will stay where you set it, but on one of them the throttle is spring loaded and the engine will run slow if I hold the throttle, but the moment I let it go the spring reduces it to no fuel and the engine shuts off.
Just my .02c
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Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister Muffler Project
« on: April 15, 2021, 12:31:59 AM »
Good work, veggie. I have mine run through an old Freon tank with a small amount of steel wool in it. It never occurred to me to add a 2nd tank.
I run across the Freon tanks pretty often, and they're free so I think I will give it a try.
I run across the Freon tanks pretty often, and they're free so I think I will give it a try.
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Listeroid Engines / Re: It's been a long road to my first post
« on: April 15, 2021, 12:15:01 AM »
Welcome aboard Brad, similarly I imported 6 'roids about 4 years ago and so far 1 is completed and hooked up to an ST generator and the other 5 are still in the crates.
Post a video when you get it running. It's good inspiration for the rest of us addicts
Post a video when you get it running. It's good inspiration for the rest of us addicts
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Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Is a 1115 a 1115 regardless of who makes it
« on: December 11, 2020, 10:14:44 PM »
This is where I got a spare head gasket for my ZS1130. I successfully compared the pictures and measurements to my spare head gasket which was damaged in transit.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1416632276.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dKFMIag
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1416632276.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dKFMIag
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Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel Crude Oil Engine
« on: December 11, 2020, 09:54:44 PM »
Just to be clear, the video I submitted was something I found on Youtube; nothing to do with me whatsoever (unless drooling counts as something to do with me)
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Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel Crude Oil Engine
« on: November 15, 2020, 10:07:01 PM »
Congrats on finally getting her running; it has been a long road.
I enjoy the rough-running and smoking old engines as well.
Here is one of my favorites
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4pNEDZgDzk
I'm not the only one, 6 million views in 10 years
I enjoy the rough-running and smoking old engines as well.
Here is one of my favorites
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4pNEDZgDzk
I'm not the only one, 6 million views in 10 years
10
Listeroid Engines / Re: 6/1-8/1 650 VS 850 RPM and Iron VS Alu. pistons
« on: November 06, 2020, 12:08:08 AM »
FWIW when I fixed my Lister VA I replaced the original aluminum piston with a cast iron one and it didn't seem too badly off-balance; it just skated rather gently across the floor.
I realize this is opposite to what you are proposing to do, and it is certainly not running at 850 RPM but hey, nothing ventured nothing gained. There is a lot of info on this forum about engine balancing.
I was unable to free the stuck rings on the original piston, which is why I replaced it.
I have not run the engine very often, but I do have a new aluminum piston for it, when I get a chance to change it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYbySo-28pI
As you can see in the video, my son is standing on the wooden skid to help slow it's movement across the floor.
I am still looking for an original fan shroud for it, in case anyone has a lead on one.
I realize this is opposite to what you are proposing to do, and it is certainly not running at 850 RPM but hey, nothing ventured nothing gained. There is a lot of info on this forum about engine balancing.
I was unable to free the stuck rings on the original piston, which is why I replaced it.
I have not run the engine very often, but I do have a new aluminum piston for it, when I get a chance to change it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYbySo-28pI
As you can see in the video, my son is standing on the wooden skid to help slow it's movement across the floor.
I am still looking for an original fan shroud for it, in case anyone has a lead on one.
11
Red Stone Engines / Re: Blast from the past
« on: August 31, 2020, 02:54:42 AM »
Hi Vista, nice story.
I too would like to see pics of your Redstone project please.
I too would like to see pics of your Redstone project please.
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Engines / Re: ST1 cylinder head gasket
« on: August 31, 2020, 02:46:03 AM »
Hi Bob, I recently fixed an ST2 which had a stuck injector nozzle; maybe you could give that a check.
13
Engines / Re: TL2 fuel pumps
« on: June 21, 2020, 05:03:59 PM »
Hi Chef, I usually remove the delivery valve and holder. Check that the D valve is free to move in the body.
Next, push a small brass drift against the plunger (located in the center of the area beneath the delivery valve.)
Turn the engine a few revolutions, you should feel the plunger move back and forth. If no movement is felt, the plunger is stuck. Liquid Wrench is my Penetrating oil of choice.
If the plunger does not free itself, a gentle rap on the brass drift might be required to free it. You may have to turn the engine in a few different positions to ensure that the cam lobe is not directly under the pump.
Next, push a small brass drift against the plunger (located in the center of the area beneath the delivery valve.)
Turn the engine a few revolutions, you should feel the plunger move back and forth. If no movement is felt, the plunger is stuck. Liquid Wrench is my Penetrating oil of choice.
If the plunger does not free itself, a gentle rap on the brass drift might be required to free it. You may have to turn the engine in a few different positions to ensure that the cam lobe is not directly under the pump.
14
Engines / Re: lister st1
« on: June 21, 2020, 04:47:50 PM »
I remove the bolts securing the bearing plate behind the flywheel. Flywheel, Bellhousing, Governor weight mechanism, Piston, rod and cylinder removed of course.
Set the crankcase with crankshaft up in the press, supported outside the OD of the bearing plate. The crankcase will need to be elevated approximately 3" to allow the crankshaft and bearing plate to move downward.
Press the end of the Crankshaft only... Not the gear. I use a socket that is a bit smaller than the end of the crankshaft inside the gear, to press against.
The Crankshaft and bearing plate will come out the back of the crankcase, leaving the gear behind.
I use a 12 ton press for removal and installation of the gear.
Set the crankcase with crankshaft up in the press, supported outside the OD of the bearing plate. The crankcase will need to be elevated approximately 3" to allow the crankshaft and bearing plate to move downward.
Press the end of the Crankshaft only... Not the gear. I use a socket that is a bit smaller than the end of the crankshaft inside the gear, to press against.
The Crankshaft and bearing plate will come out the back of the crankcase, leaving the gear behind.
I use a 12 ton press for removal and installation of the gear.
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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister JP1. First start after complete rebuild
« on: June 15, 2020, 01:26:13 AM »
Congratulations Jim, she sounds great. A very desirable engine.