1
Red Stone Engines / Re: Blast from the past
« on: August 31, 2020, 02:54:42 AM »
Hi Vista, nice story.
I too would like to see pics of your Redstone project please.
I too would like to see pics of your Redstone project please.
Home of the Listeroid - Since 2005
News:
For those who don't know, regular poster Bob (aka Ajaffa) and his wife recently lost his house and many of their possessions (but apparently not his engines!) to a bush fire. Please see this post for details of an appeal to help him rebuild. Thanks, everyone from LEF.
https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8876.0
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2
Engines / Re: ST1 cylinder head gasket
« on: August 31, 2020, 02:46:03 AM »
Hi Bob, I recently fixed an ST2 which had a stuck injector nozzle; maybe you could give that a check.
3
Engines / Re: TL2 fuel pumps
« on: June 21, 2020, 05:03:59 PM »
Hi Chef, I usually remove the delivery valve and holder. Check that the D valve is free to move in the body.
Next, push a small brass drift against the plunger (located in the center of the area beneath the delivery valve.)
Turn the engine a few revolutions, you should feel the plunger move back and forth. If no movement is felt, the plunger is stuck. Liquid Wrench is my Penetrating oil of choice.
If the plunger does not free itself, a gentle rap on the brass drift might be required to free it. You may have to turn the engine in a few different positions to ensure that the cam lobe is not directly under the pump.
Next, push a small brass drift against the plunger (located in the center of the area beneath the delivery valve.)
Turn the engine a few revolutions, you should feel the plunger move back and forth. If no movement is felt, the plunger is stuck. Liquid Wrench is my Penetrating oil of choice.
If the plunger does not free itself, a gentle rap on the brass drift might be required to free it. You may have to turn the engine in a few different positions to ensure that the cam lobe is not directly under the pump.
4
Engines / Re: lister st1
« on: June 21, 2020, 04:47:50 PM »
I remove the bolts securing the bearing plate behind the flywheel. Flywheel, Bellhousing, Governor weight mechanism, Piston, rod and cylinder removed of course.
Set the crankcase with crankshaft up in the press, supported outside the OD of the bearing plate. The crankcase will need to be elevated approximately 3" to allow the crankshaft and bearing plate to move downward.
Press the end of the Crankshaft only... Not the gear. I use a socket that is a bit smaller than the end of the crankshaft inside the gear, to press against.
The Crankshaft and bearing plate will come out the back of the crankcase, leaving the gear behind.
I use a 12 ton press for removal and installation of the gear.
Set the crankcase with crankshaft up in the press, supported outside the OD of the bearing plate. The crankcase will need to be elevated approximately 3" to allow the crankshaft and bearing plate to move downward.
Press the end of the Crankshaft only... Not the gear. I use a socket that is a bit smaller than the end of the crankshaft inside the gear, to press against.
The Crankshaft and bearing plate will come out the back of the crankcase, leaving the gear behind.
I use a 12 ton press for removal and installation of the gear.
5
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister JP1. First start after complete rebuild
« on: June 15, 2020, 01:26:13 AM »
Congratulations Jim, she sounds great. A very desirable engine.
7
Engines / Re: Lister LD2-newcomer
« on: June 06, 2020, 05:06:02 PM »
Welcome aboard Andrew079, in the meantime you could try the LR2 manual. My understanding is the LD is the predecessor to the LR, and very similar, if not identical engines.
You start here or elsewhere https://www.agrimanuals.com/lister-engine-manuals-374-c.asp
Note that these are not Workshop manuals, but if you inquire they might havew those as well.
You start here or elsewhere https://www.agrimanuals.com/lister-engine-manuals-374-c.asp
Note that these are not Workshop manuals, but if you inquire they might havew those as well.
8
Listeroid Engines / Re: Conrod
« on: May 04, 2020, 01:46:42 AM »
Congrats, and yes, a video would be great.
10
Other Fuels / Re: Very unusual fuels
« on: April 17, 2020, 03:36:19 PM »
Hi StrawHat, I think this is one of the tractors you are referring to.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rxdka2igpRk
I share your interest in old semi-diesels. I also have considered converting an existing engine to semi-diesel just for fun (maybe a Listeroid or hit and miss gas engine?).
I recently considered it with my 1920's Nelson Bros. gas engine (4.5" bore, 6" stroke, dual flywheels) which needed an entire top end; and I even went so far as to purchase a suitable sleeve and material to fabricate a cylinder with.
But the local historical value of the engine was such that I could not bring myself to do it, and sure enough I have obtained a used cylinder, head, piston, and rod for it.
So a restoration of sorts will be started on that one, depending on what the future holds.
With the Listeroid, I can't find a reason to justify the expenditure it would require (and do I really want to ruin a brand-new engine which I could possibly sell?).
Even if I did convert a Listeroid to semi-diesel, what would I have? Half of the people I showed it to would not understand what I was talking about when I explained what I did, and the other half who did understand, would probably condemn me for doing it
.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rxdka2igpRk
I share your interest in old semi-diesels. I also have considered converting an existing engine to semi-diesel just for fun (maybe a Listeroid or hit and miss gas engine?).
I recently considered it with my 1920's Nelson Bros. gas engine (4.5" bore, 6" stroke, dual flywheels) which needed an entire top end; and I even went so far as to purchase a suitable sleeve and material to fabricate a cylinder with.
But the local historical value of the engine was such that I could not bring myself to do it, and sure enough I have obtained a used cylinder, head, piston, and rod for it.
So a restoration of sorts will be started on that one, depending on what the future holds.
With the Listeroid, I can't find a reason to justify the expenditure it would require (and do I really want to ruin a brand-new engine which I could possibly sell?).
Even if I did convert a Listeroid to semi-diesel, what would I have? Half of the people I showed it to would not understand what I was talking about when I explained what I did, and the other half who did understand, would probably condemn me for doing it
.11
Engines / Re: LR1 intake and exhaust backwards
« on: April 12, 2020, 03:42:09 AM »
Congratulations Dmatt! Much better now. Starting it in the designed direction makes quite a difference doesn't it?
12
Engines / Re: LR1 intake and exhaust backwards
« on: April 12, 2020, 02:51:53 AM »
Looking at the valves, the intake valve should start to open just as the exhaust valve is finishing closing when the engine is turning in the correct direction.
Opposite to this means that it is rotating opposite to the design of the camshaft (placement of the cam lobes), which is what determines the direction of the engine running properly.
I'll bet you a hundred dollars that it will start easier and run a lot better with less smoke if you start it counterclockwise.
Opposite to this means that it is rotating opposite to the design of the camshaft (placement of the cam lobes), which is what determines the direction of the engine running properly.
I'll bet you a hundred dollars that it will start easier and run a lot better with less smoke if you start it counterclockwise.
13
Engines / Re: LR1 intake and exhaust backwards
« on: April 12, 2020, 02:33:00 AM »
The hand starters can be changed for use either direction by rotating the spring loaded pin that engages the camshaft around 180 degrees.
I use mine in both directions depending on which rotation I need for the engine I am currently starting.
I use mine in both directions depending on which rotation I need for the engine I am currently starting.
14
Engines / Re: LR1 intake and exhaust backwards
« on: April 12, 2020, 02:25:58 AM »
The starter is turning the engine in the wrong direction and it is difficult to start but it runs backward.
Judging by the shape of your fan shroud, your flywheel should be turning counterclockwise, but you indicate in the video that it is turning clockwise.
Look at the shape of the fan shroud on my LR2A, even though in the video mine appears to be running clockwise it is actually running counterclockwise, just as yours appears to be turning counterclockwise but you indicate with your finger that it is turning clockwise. (Videos show it opposite from the actual direction it is turning).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXQBZ1JOmg8
In my video you can see me turning my camshaft counterclockwise to start it; if your cam is turning clockwise the engine is running in reverse. This would explain simply why it is exhausting through the intake and sucking through the exhaust.
Here is another video of an anti-clockwise LR1.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwDnq15RMZI
A clockwise rotating one, you can clearly see the flywheel turning clockwise when he cranks it but as soon as the smoke clears the flywheel appears to be turning counterclockwise. Note the shape of the fan shroud.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOYrE-UcvY4&t=31s
https://diesel-electric.us/ should be able to supply the correct hand or electric starter for your application.
Judging by the shape of your fan shroud, your flywheel should be turning counterclockwise, but you indicate in the video that it is turning clockwise.
Look at the shape of the fan shroud on my LR2A, even though in the video mine appears to be running clockwise it is actually running counterclockwise, just as yours appears to be turning counterclockwise but you indicate with your finger that it is turning clockwise. (Videos show it opposite from the actual direction it is turning).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXQBZ1JOmg8
In my video you can see me turning my camshaft counterclockwise to start it; if your cam is turning clockwise the engine is running in reverse. This would explain simply why it is exhausting through the intake and sucking through the exhaust.
Here is another video of an anti-clockwise LR1.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwDnq15RMZI
A clockwise rotating one, you can clearly see the flywheel turning clockwise when he cranks it but as soon as the smoke clears the flywheel appears to be turning counterclockwise. Note the shape of the fan shroud.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOYrE-UcvY4&t=31s
https://diesel-electric.us/ should be able to supply the correct hand or electric starter for your application.
15
Engines / Re: Lister LR2 first smoke
« on: April 05, 2020, 01:11:53 AM »
Hi Glort, Mikenash said the oil is especially heavy when it's cold, which I took to mean it's very thick. I suggested diluting it with kerosene for use in his engine if it's too thick for that purpose.
Nothing to do with oil burners other than commenting on his.
Nothing to do with oil burners other than commenting on his.