Yes dax, you are correct, my mistake and I appologise for misleading the group.

Once the metal has been cleaned you cannot treat it with an oil or anything else as it will not allow your paint or in this case POR15 to bond to clean metal.
Read the instructions on the POR15 to see if they recommend any pretreatment undercoat/primers. Otherwise wait until your ready to do the POR15. You are aware that POR15 has a very short shelf life. Once the can is opened you are all systems go and have a couple of days at most to finish using the product as once the air gets to it the curing starts. They are sealed at the factory using a gas to stop curing.
I have seen but not used a laser blaster used for motor parts. I only last night asked a member from another Forum if he has received his and if it actually worked. Like so many things the videos make you think that this is the answer to cleaning parts up but can come back and bite you. The one in question was less than AU$50.00 plus postage so will be interesting to see how it went if at all.
If there is no information on the can of POR15 send the company an email and ask if they recommend a product but it will not be any oil base products as paint and coating do not stick to oil. If you are hindered in being able to do a full days work due to health or other reasons I would suggest that you get someone to help you complete the POR15 job in one go.

Absolutely no need to apologise.  There are so many types of acid out there with long chemical names, it is easy to get them mixed up.  Hugh, I am unfamiliar with TSP, what is that?  I'm sure there are millions of products out there to strip paint, most of them pricy, but to be honest, for cast iron I found good old cheap caustic soda flakes(sodium hydroxide) to be the most effective.  It also works better if heated, but I never bothered, it worked perfectly albeit a bit slower at room temperature.  It will anyway get quite hot as a result of the chemical reaction with the water.  As mentioned, a couple of days completely submerged and then blasted off with a high pressure cleaner did wonders for me.  It does however, not remove powder coating or plastic based paints, these are best removed with a blowtorch.  If you are worried about rust, heat the lump up after rinsing, best in an oven, but I don't have one of those, so just used a blowtorch.  The tiny bit of surface rust that appears is easy to wire brush off just before painting.  I just used a good quality automotive primer and paint, and most of the pumps I did are showing no signs of rust after 20 plus years in the elements on farms and trucking yards.

Just make sure you use the correct material for the application.  Also made my own for many years to use on petrol (gas) pumps at filling stations. We used "viton" mainly

Thanks, good to get my daily fix again.

Thanks, got it.  Will give it a try

Quote from: dax021 on April 04, 2021, 09:29:13 AM

Why don't you turn that outlet pipe to face downwards?  That way it won't fill your tank with rainwater.

As noted above, the outlet is positioned to accept a screw-on stack.
The vertical stack will extend up above my garage and will have a rain cap on top.
The stack will be 3" PVC pipe.

Sorry, my bad.  Didn't read properly

My SR2 doesn't have a return to the filter, only one going back to the tank and is working perfectly, so I guess it would be fine to blank yours off.  At the worst, if you have problems, you can always make a connection again.

He's alive and well.  Ade sent him a message and he got hold of me.  Have been chatting a bit via emails