Good points Glort, look at videos and I have found YouTube good for helpful tips and governeor springs can be a right pain in the rear end. I was going to mention mowers and the springs on them. I have a few different mowers in the collection and they all behave differently. One in particular idles as slow as possible and as you increase the revs it runs beautifully, but it's mate never does what I want it to until I bought a new spring and that helped a lot. I guessed that at some stage the original spring got stretched or loss tension and the new one sorted it. I also had a Suzuki 2 stroke that the governor was playing up and in that case it was poorly adjusted and a video clip showed me the correct way to sort it out and all is good now.
So keep on checking you governor, we feel your problem is there.

G'Day Dave and welcome to the Forum. I have not been into this area of my LS2 engine but I would imagine that it is a press on fit with the flywheel. Soon enough someone with greater knowledge than I will be able to help you but in the mean time do a Google search for a workshop manual for your engine, no doubt it will be covered in that somewhere. If you also search this forum for a manual one might turn up but try to identify your model from the ID plate on the engine as model numbers can change the whole way an engine is made.
Keep us informed with any progress. What type of saw bench do you have and how are you going to connect it and run the saw and at what speed?

I only use after market filters in all our toys from engines, tractors and truck. You will not have any issues it is all about keeping up the sales of OE parts.
One of our tractors is a David Brown 30C Cropmaster and like everything else when you ask about after market parts for them a few of the Admin boys chirp up and claim that only David Brown parts in the UK will work and they really hate being told differnt and after supplying the proof just on who makes the filters for them and in China, they never said any more on the subject. This can pretty much be applied to 99% of parts so go ahead and use what you have. If you happen to have any reservations about it check your oil pressure gauge when running. If you don't have one you can fit one easily.

Well done and good progress for you. I meant to say to remember to mark the gear before removal so the timing does not get upset. I had an engine where the timing marks will never align as it had the wrong model cam gear inside but same size and teeth number. Luckily I did make my own marks before stripping it down.

Everything about these engines are very different. The adjustable compression ratio, ring set all the same and the weirdest is the injection system known as a Hvid / Brons set up and very tricky to get it set up correctly.

If you ever get the chance to visit the "Land of the Long White Cloud" (N.Z.) you certainly will enjoy it. Been there years back and it is a stunning place with almost every kind of geological feature you could look for.

Same difference snowman, just different countries call it something different.
Here we compress the pixels to reduce the size of the file to post and is the same procedure as you do when you resize.

So far with the limited info in the only booklet I have on the engine compression ratio is not listed that I can find. You mentioned that the fuel can drip in and be squeezed to death to make it ignite, well maybe. This system had a fuel cup where the fuel is dripped into before getting down to the cylinder.
5 rings and they are all the same but they describe the bottom ring as being an oil ring and I guess this is because it is at the bottom where it will be in contact with the oil in the sump. It is also a horizontal engine and the specs claim it is all of 2.5 hp for this model.
There is a limitation to how many shims can be fitted before the piston will hit the valves but before you get that far you wont crank it over compression even when you use the decompression lever and drop it they will stop dead and you wont be able to continue to crank. There is a weird series of steps to take before starting up from the obvious, checking oil level (sorry snowman didn't mean to raise that again) to priming the oil lubrication system to get the piston wet and the bearings full, winding the engine backwards to prime the fuel cup then lift the decompression, crank away and drop the lever and if all the planets are aligned it will go bang and run. That was just a very general over view of the start up proceedure.