You are quite welcome. I am a tradesman as well, HVAC/Refrigeration, been one heck of a busy summer here too.

If you mean "visually" constantly monitoring, a drilled and tapped hole for a thermometer well would be the most accurite but I don't think there is a anywhere on a CS cylinder or head thick enough to get a good thread. The easiest solution if you have pipe stubs at the inlet and outlet of the engine would be something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Dtacke-Thermometer-Spring-Temperature-Thermo/dp/B07XJM8XM8

They just strap on with various length springs and should be relatively accurite. Pretty cheap too.

I'm sure with a little digging around you should be able to find one with a proper Fahrenheit scale.

What a great idea. That reminds me of the magnetic thermometer that I have on my wood stove.

It's awesome that you service Listeroids. I am in North Carolina and have yet to meet a single person here in NC who has even heard of a Lister.

Thanks

Hello All,

        I sell Listeroids and this problem with heat management comes up a lot. For starters 220F is too hot, should be 180F Max. The problem I've found with small automotive radiators is bleeding the air bubbles.  I find that the old NASCAR trick of feeding the engine coolant output into the bottom or the radiator works wonders. The bubbles automatically purge out the top. With the conventional plumbing of in the top and out the bottom on my 10/1 demo unit and the 180F thermostat stayed open, the electric fan never started and the recovery tank started over heating. Reverse the flow and the thermostat never opened releasing only the bleed volume through the closed thermostat. The fan started on a 50% duty cycle and the temp stayed at about 160F. Same load just different heat management.

Best
Graham Slieker

Thanks for the great help. I would definitely be lost without everyone's friendly advice.

I reversed the radiator hoses so that the hot water / antifreeze mixture leaving the 10/1 enters the bottom of the radiator and I am still getting about 260-degrees F with my non-contact infrared thermometer aimed at the engine block about an inch to the left of the hot water outlet. When I aim the thermometer right on the hot water outlet just before it enters the hose I am only getting about 190-degrees F. I have the radiator fan running and the temp entering the radiator is about 150-F and leaving the radiator is about 130-F. Do you think this is sufficient or maybe I should be thinking about installing a larger radiator? 

Thanks.

TEMPERATURE -                                              F
AT BLOCK TO LEFT OF OUTPUT =                   260
AT BLOCK AT OUTPUT              =                   190
ON RADIATOR HOSE AT RADIATOR INPUT =    150
ON RADIATOR HOSE AT RADIATOR OUTPUT = 130

That is great advice Graham. I will give it a try and let you know how it works out.
Thanks,

Okay, well I am finally getting around to working on cooling my listeroid 10/1. I have installed a small radiator, a household fan for the radiator and a hot water heater circulating pump. I filled the radiator with a 50/50 solution of antifreeze and water.
My operating temperature on the engine block next to where antifreeze leaves the generator is 220-degrees farenheit after about 20 - miinutes of operation.

Is there anything else that I might want to try in order to bring the temp down some?

The circulating pump has 3 - speeds. I have it on the lowest speed in order to keep from adding too much pressure to the cooling system.

The fan is not pushing too much air through the radiator. The simplist test that I could do is install a more powerful fan.

The radiator is probably something that you would see in a small 4-cylinder car.


Thanks for the help..

The India "manuals" are very generic, same one issued for a 6/1 or 25/2. Theyoffer little information of value, some of it flat wrong.. Also there are variants of engines called 10/1 with various RPMs and bore sizes.I might have a manual here somewhere. What is it you need to know? I might be able to help

I have been researching radiators and have decided to go with a small one off of a 4 - cylinder car out of the junk yard, add a 120-v household box fan to it and also add a 120-v grundfos circulating pump to it as well. Just wondering whether or not this should be sufficient for keeping the 10/1 1,000RPM nice and cool. I am not thrilled about using 120-v for the fan or the circulating pump but that would be easier than adding a belt and pulley or an alternator.

Thanks for the input. Hope youre having a great day.

We've been using those relatively inexpensive "Grundfos" style hot water circulating pumps with good results. They run on 120v, take very little power and seem to be utterly reliable.

The Grundfos brand is prob top notch and will cost about $130 if you look carefully. The clones are about half that. I don't know how well the clones hold up.

Hello cujet,

If I use a circulating pump does the system need to be under pressure?

Thanks..

Nice.....  I will start researching this. 

Thanks.

Hello,

The radiator on my 10-HP / 1-Cylinder Lister Clone has 1 - substantial leak at the fitting where the freon exits the radiator. I showed it to my friend who is an old school plumber and very good at soldering and he is recommending that I just try to find another radiator at the junk yard. Is there a certain type and size radiator that I should be looking for?

Thank you for the advice.