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Messages - Hugh Conway

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Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: May 15, 2022, 06:16:20 PM »
Re: cooling/heating to remove bearing from shaft.
In commercial aviation, we sometimes encountered a wheel bearing stuck on an axel (think big, like 747)
The solution was to pack the axel in dry ice, the bearing remained at ambient temp. the bearing usually just slid off.
Dry ice is not that difficult to come by, locally, it's used for packing fish for transport via courier (sport fishermen)

Lister Based Generators / Re: Ac1 conversion
« on: May 07, 2022, 06:00:13 PM »
@ Waxel
Use the search function to enter "starter/generator", you'll find a lot of links.
Veggie got me inspired to install one  on my 6/1, it works very well, and has for several years of regular use.
No reason it would not work for your engine.
Some examples

You can find golf cart starter/generators on ebay or maybe locally.


Lister Based Generators / Re: Ac1 conversion
« on: May 04, 2022, 10:16:57 PM »
There's always the old golf cart starter/generator option.

Generators / Re: Small Permanent Magnet Generator
« on: April 29, 2022, 11:56:02 PM »
Thanks, veggie:
 Just saw your post. I will look into this further, though have no requirement for one just now.

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: head gaskets
« on: April 29, 2022, 11:54:05 PM »
 ChevellRCR & mikenash

I am using Gaskets-to-go head gaskets on both my Lister and listeroid 6/1s.
Very good quality, as OEM automotive gaskets.
Mine have been in service for a lot of hours, no problems,
Cannot comment on cost, as it has been a few years, but they were very reasonable considering their quality and that they are trouble free. Gaskets-to-go will also make custom gaskets if you have a drawing or pattern.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Big end wear or damage
« on: April 23, 2022, 05:25:13 PM »
Yellonev & 38AC
Thanks for that clarification, I'm only familiar with the singles, and had no idea of the internal layout of the twins.
Always something new to learn, even on these old-time machines!

Listeroid Engines / Re: Big end wear or damage
« on: April 23, 2022, 05:18:08 AM »
Re: oil level dipstick..
I think the dipstick is not relevant. Oil level in a Lister and most listeroids is determined by the top reservoir being full, as it is automatically via the oil pump. The oil quantity in the lower sump should be about 1/2' below the removable cover in the lower sump.
I have never used the dipstick in my Listeroid. A real Dursley does not have a dipstick.....not necessary. Oil can never touch the con rod end cap, as that level is determined by the weir of the upper sump.
Dipper should be installed as a blade, not sideways, and needs to clear the bottom of the upper sump.

Generators / Re: Small 900 RPM Generator heads - do they exist ?
« on: April 17, 2022, 10:01:49 PM »
Appears that small 8 pole gen heads and hen's teeth are both made of unobtanium. Here's an LEF link from the distant past asking the same. https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=264.0
BTW, Veggie, if you find one, let us know. We're all interested!

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Changeover valve removal suggestions.
« on: April 06, 2022, 09:33:56 PM »
My experience is same as 38AC's. Tried everything that I had ever seen recomended to remove the COV.......nothing worked. Had to destroy it to remove it.
YMMV......I hope you have success with a less destructive method.

Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: March 02, 2022, 10:01:11 PM »
Looking at the manual you provided, I was reminded of a boat I used to have circa 1973.
It had an SR2 rated at 12BHP continuous. On the side of the fuel control was a stop with a lead seal. Breaking the seal allowed the operator to advance the throttle to "WAR EMERGENCY POWER" I never tried that, but the engine could produce that 12 HP effortlessly. The heated air could be ducted to the cockpit and sure kept it warm.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Muffler Through Wall Question
« on: February 12, 2022, 12:35:56 AM »
Re wall exit and muffler
@Listernational.....our listeroid is in an open shed, the exhaust exits through a wooden wall. The wall just has a big hole, there's plenty of clearance. From there, it goes to an underground baffled pit, thence through a 3" plastic vertical stack. All particulates are captured underground. In winter, a bit of steam exits in the exhaust. In dry weather, nothing is seen. the exhaust is quieter than the mechanical noise.

@ Tanman...........our Dursley 6/1 is in an engine room in my shop. It's bolted to a large concrete block. The exhaust exits through the wall. I will try to describe the method..... Exhaust exits the engine via a straight length of 2" automotive exhaust pipe. About a foot from the engine is a length of flexible exhaust pipe. Then more 2" automotive pipe that exits the wall. At the wall exit is a panel of heavy sheet metal about 18" square (it's screwed to the plywood sheathing) with the pipe going through the centre.....loosely fit. Riveted to the panel is a 1 gallon paint can with its lid on, so it is sealed at both ends except the holes for the pipe. The holes in the can fit the pipe closely and are sealed with high temp caulking......the exhaust pipe goes through that and out into a muffler made of concrete block. the sheet metal does not got and it all has been working quite well for about a year.........Does not rattle or vibrate.
Sounds a bit shade tree, but looks quite fine and works.
Of course, YMMV

I was able to get a startomatic from a member in Denmark. He had a few Lister 6/1 machines.
Oiler has not been active on the forum for a while, but he is not all that far from you in Norway.
Try shooting him a PM. Maybe he has something of interest to you, or might know of some contacts in the Nordic countries.

Ebay in UK is a good place to look. Here's a CS, not a startomatic though.
Good luck

Had a similar problem in moving  my Dursley from one location to another about 500" away, up a hill, into a building and onto a 10" high concrete pad. No tractor here either. I lifted it with wedges until i was able to get it onto s couple of 4X4 wooden skids. Used 2" steel pipe as rollers and a 5' steel bar to move it along. Took me a couple of days and some patience, but eventually got it in place without damaging anything......especially me!
Long ago, I watched an old guy move a 4 ton lead keel casting. He had cast it in a hole in the ground. With wedges, rollers, and a long bar, he moved it out of the hole, then positioned it under the wooden sail boat he was building. He then wedged it up and bolted it in place. Took him a couple of days, but there was never a mishap and he never broke a sweat. A great lesson to me.

General Discussion / Re: one of the early members has gone to the lord
« on: January 18, 2022, 01:58:38 AM »
I never met Quinn, but had the pleasure of corresponding with him years ago. Quinn wrote a couple of articles on the tear-down and re-assembly of a Power Solutions listeroid and sent them me to proof-read them before publication. I think that was in 2013 or thereabouts. I can now only locate the "Beta Tester part 1".
He wrote a few articles for George Breckenridge's Utterpower site as well. Those were earlier still, long before I even knew anything about listeroids.
Here are a couple of links that still work
There is a lot of good information and photos in those links, and they are now all that I have except the Beta Tester pdf
I can recall some photos of him working in his ever-so-clean shop in bare feet.
Quinn was a great guy and was always willing to share his experience. In reading his obit, there is a bit about his interest in sailing. We lived and sailed in the same area way back when, maybe we met then, and never realized it in our later correspondence.
R.I.P. Quinn
We'll miss you Mr. Farnes

Engines / Re: Paint Removal LPW
« on: January 10, 2022, 07:13:34 PM »
IIRC, used TSP mixed in a 1/2 plastic 55 gal barrel of hot water to strip my Lister and Listeroid parts. Just let it sit overnight, stirred a few times. Hosed off most of the paint the next afternoon. Was easy and inexpensive. I see similar on youtube but with a propane burner heating the water in a metal tub. Probably hotter is better, but my method worked OK for me.

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