Only pain with them is stripping the cooler to remove all the bits of broken impeller after it breaks up.

Blue

Sweet, just over 500 rpm but is it a Lister? I see the post is under Listeroids ?

These were essential on any vessel that had air start generators and main engines because if the main air tanks leaked while the vessel was in port with no machinery running it would be impossible to put into service. So first the Lister was started and air put into the main air tanks until a generator could be started to put power on the switch board and run the electrically driven compressor which was larger to fill the air tanks. Then the main engine could be started. The ones I worked with could pump to 300 psi as that was what the main engine required to start but it was a long haul and we used to start the generator on a lot less to speed up the operation. I was on a North sea trawler that had this system along with 220 vdc power !!! Not something to mess about with.

Have offered the guy US$ 600 (about 14 million pounds at todays rate  ) which he has agreed to but is still unable to locate the pumps and injectors so that may have to change. Re dating, I thought these only started production in 1961 ? Nothing about spec on the plate, only the number, horsepower and revs.

That sounds like my only hope. Do you know what size they are offhand? I am going to use an o ring if no other option presents itself.

Have signed up to internal fire but have to wait for approval before I can post anything. Thanks for that. My Petter M small end bush is phosphor bronze so has a modicum of natural lubrication and has a cup built into the connecting rod to catch any flying oil. All seems a bit hit and miss but I suppose it must have provided sufficient oil to keep it going. New bush currently being made. The gudgeon pin showed some signs of damage but only to the lower surface. It is held in place by a locating bolt so can't rotate and I was a bit confused by the marks but decided to leave well alone as the upper working surface is just about perfect. There is a sump drain plug so I guess all those drops of oil from the 'Calibrater' (every 5 seconds) that lub the big end collect in the bottom eventually and need removing occasionally. Hopefully I will soon be O.K.'d to access Internal Fire to see if I can pick their brains too. Many thanks.
Blue 

O.K. Got it all stripped down now. The mains are grease lubricated via nipples but the big end is oil lubricated from a calibrator unit. Unfortunately that system has not been working too well and the small end has about 1mm play in it. The big end bearings are loose in the rod and I will have to put shims in to get the clearance right. One grease seal has broken and allowed grease into the crankcase which then combined with some carbon and blocked the oilway to the big end. Does anyone know if these seals are available? I have been trying with a bit of 1/4" shaft packing with no success but would really like to replace all four of them having now seen what can happen when they allow grease to pass. They are 1/4" square material and run against the crankshaft whilst sitting in a pocket on the side cover, the inner seals are 1 5/8" inside diameter, 2 1/8" O.D. and the outer seals 1 1/4" I.D. & 1 3/4" O.D. What are the originals made of, leather? Any help would be appreciated.

What I used to do was close the shut off valve until all the fluctuations at the gauge had stopped and leave it like that. That way it was always registering even if it took a couple of seconds to come up after starting. Good luck.

Blue