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Messages - 32 coupe

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1
Listeroid Engines / Re: Metro 12/2 rebuild
« on: July 20, 2021, 10:31:13 PM »

Yes, they are tapered.

They have been known to beat on both sides. I had one I had to grind the small side flush
before I could drive it out.

Replacement pins are available.



2
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: July 17, 2021, 12:23:51 AM »
Check out  www.seafrost.com

Scan down the page to the spec charts.

Look at running amps, locked rotor and btu output.  The numbers are interesting.

They obviously are not "the answer" but gives you an idea in that area.


3
Everything else / Re: DIY water chiller - reading suggestions?
« on: July 16, 2021, 11:40:59 PM »


Sight glass works on most stuff. But everything.

Dometic freezer units have a sight glass installed from the factory but they tell you
 not to charge by filling the glass.

When they are correctly charged liquid will "trickle" through the glass.

That's 134a running an expansion valve to a plate or coil at low temps.

May not be applicable to your application but good brain exercise.


4
Everything else / Re: Lithium cell balancing
« on: July 14, 2021, 05:50:15 PM »

I know heat does play into the life span.
It gets HOT in florida !

 

5
Everything else / Re: Lithium cell balancing
« on: July 13, 2021, 04:21:21 AM »

I wondered what was what when you first brought this subject up. I thought I'd wait to comment.

Chinese batterys ? Really ?

I don't think you can buy ANY good batterys anymore. (Yea, I'm sure I'll catch *** for that.)

I am in the marine industry and haven't had good luck with any of the major brand batterys.
About 2 years is the new norm for battery life. Wet, mat, gell....they are all junk.

I have owners ask about  lipo's etc. all the time. A while ago I asked a friend who I consider to
be an expert on batterys, chargers, solar etc about them and he says the problem is that their are
not really any  "standards" for most of the newer compounds in batterys and that the charge and
maintenance schedules are all over the place.

Unless one wants to go down the "virgin lead" road throw away batterys are here to stay.

I wish you could buy good batterys at a reasonable price today. I remember ( here we go !)
when the average car battery would last for years. My daily driver truck seems to eat a battery
on a 2 year cycle. Not cheap baterys either. The guys I work with seem to have the exact same
results. The last couple have gone dead suddenly. Start fine for months then BAM dead.

There is so much junk out there today you never know what you are getting. Especially from China.
I have gotten pretty cynical the last few years. Terrible service and no warranty seem to be the new
industry standard. That new battery with the fancy plastic case and bright shiney colors might just
as well be a gold plated t**d. And don't even bring up cost.....thru the roof !

Bruce, I thought you were using "cycled" fork lift batterys ? I'd stick with that and save your money.

Now if you run across those tall batterys used in back ups for com towers and crash carts grab them.
I haven't used them but have seen excellent reviews for them. I remember pricing some for a customer
a couple of years ago and he went with standard wet cells after seeing what those "virgin lead" batterys cost !





OK, rant over. Let the stones fly !

Gary





6
Listeroid Engines / Re: Metro 12/2 rebuild
« on: July 04, 2021, 02:28:20 AM »

Did the rod cap have any shims ?


7
Listeroid Engines / Re: Metro 12/2 rebuild
« on: July 03, 2021, 10:28:24 PM »
My Metro manual has :

"Maximum rod clearance .003"

I'm sure someone else will chime in on this as it has been discussed several times.

You might try the search engine here for more info.


8
Listeroid Engines / Re: Metro 12/2 rebuild
« on: July 03, 2021, 08:22:21 PM »
I think some bearings look like that.

What does the  throw on the crank look like ?

Plasti gauge will help here.


9
Listeroid Engines / Re: Metro 12/2 rebuild
« on: June 27, 2021, 11:48:44 PM »

I'd like to see more pics....
Crank, case, rods .....etc.
Just curious against my Ashwamegh.

Thanks


10
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister clone Powerline 24/2 questions
« on: June 13, 2021, 06:58:23 PM »


OK, my next question would be what rpm ?


11
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister clone Powerline 24/2 questions
« on: June 13, 2021, 04:14:34 AM »

Are you trying to set the throttle from a no load to loaded situation  ?


12
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister clone Powerline 24/2 questions
« on: June 13, 2021, 01:01:54 AM »


Years ago the thing was a door return spring.  Long soft spring......I tried that but no luck for me.

I went to home depot and bought a box of springs. They were about the size of the original. Some thinner
some thicker etc.

I tried several springs qnd combination of springs untill I found the combination that worked.the best.

Took several hours and many starts before I was happy with the results.

Sounds like the same problem I had.


13
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister clone Powerline 24/2 questions
« on: June 13, 2021, 12:52:03 AM »
I tried many springs and combinations of springs before I waa happy with the govenor action.

The stock spring would not work for me.

Have you tried any other springs ?


14
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister clone Powerline 24/2 questions
« on: May 31, 2021, 03:37:22 AM »

I would be extremely careful of over speed.

Secure something to measure the rpms of your engine.

Safety is paramount.


15

I ended up with extra springs throughout the linkages to remove any slop in the system.

Home Depot had a box with what I guess was a few dozen different size and type springs.

On my engine the most slop was on the vertical adjustment rods.
I used springs just heavy enough to take out the extra play with out causing other problems.
I measured the throw at various positions with stop lever and the engine not running.
Once I got as much slop out of the linkages as I could with no binding throughout the entire travel then I could fine tune the exhaust temp
until they were as close as I could get with a medium load.
I would measure the exhaust temp then add more fuel to the cold cylinder and less fuel to the hot cylinder .

I don't know if that is the approved method or not but it's what worked for me.

I remember I played with it for several hours and runs before I was happy with the results.

Someone will jump in with a better and or easier way to do it I'm sure.

Before all that though make sure the valves and injector timing are correct.







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