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Messages - Rxe

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Petteroids / Re: Petter PH Flywheel (not a gib key problem!)
« on: February 27, 2012, 05:34:07 PM »
Having checked the small end of the rod, it is 0.3mm out of round.  The book doesn't mention a spec for the rod itself.    There is no apparent damage to the rod, and I can't see how the flywheel whacking would have elongated the hole - as all the force would be directed to the base of the rod.  

Petteroids / Re: Petter PH Flywheel (not a gib key problem!)
« on: February 27, 2012, 04:16:54 PM »
I was thinking of putting a new bush in it?  I'll measure and see if it is actually out of spec.  If it is, as you say, a second hand part will be easier and cheaper - I already have one in a very dead PH.

Engines / Re: SR4 Rebuild
« on: February 27, 2012, 08:56:01 AM »
Good news and bad news.

Good news: the cam and the oil pump are out.   The cam was easy - pull the dowel on the top deck out, withdraw cam.  Simple.  The oil pump was very stuck.  The instructions say "undo the two set screws and withdraw".  Hmmm.   A shim of wood and a big lever behind it eventually persuaded it out. 

Bad news:  I dropped the oil pump, and one of the "ears" for the set screw has snapped.   I assume that this is a unique oil pump, and I have the only one in existence on my work bench!   (or maybe it is the same as the SR3 pump).   I'm not overly worried - given the way the pump is shoved in, I think the ears stop it rotating over time rather than materially holding it in.   If I can get a spare housing, I will rebuild the pump in to it.

Petteroids / Re: Petter PH Flywheel (not a gib key problem!)
« on: February 27, 2012, 08:50:22 AM »
Update.  The block of wood between the piston and the head worked.  With the head off, I ran a suitable branch through the table saw, cutting off a 1" section.   Popped it between the head and piston and started gently swinging.  After about 2 minutes of swinging, I noticed that the gib key slots were out of alignment, and gradually it started to move more easily - loads of oil helped.  When it did come off, the mounting surface was not corroded, but it was huge  - there was no way that was coming off by conventional methods.

One thing I have noticed is that the small end bearing is loose in the conrod.  I have no idea whether it was loose before the flywheel swinging, or whether it was caused by the flywheel swinging, but it is worth checking.   I would imagine that the impact of flywheel swinging is not a lot compared to thousands of diesel explosions.

The low compression was due to a blown head gasket, and the rings were a bit sticky.  The bore is within tolerance and in good condition, so I will re-ring and deglaze.   Judging by the inch of sludge in the crank case, the oil was never changed from new.  Given that, the bearings are in remarkable condition, the big end is a bit scuffed, but the mains are clean.

One question: does anyone know how the main bearing at the flywheel end gets its oil?   The bearing has an oil hole in it, but there is no corresponding hole in the cover, and even if there was a hole in the cover, I can't see an obvious feed route for the oil.   The back (gear end) one is as expected, with bearing and feed holes aligned.

Edit: looking carefully at the cleaned up parts, I see an oil drilling in the flywheel bearing housing, and someone appears to have put the bearing in without considering this.   There is an oil flow to the bearing, but it is partial.   Pretty amazing that it is in such good order!

Petteroids / Re: Petter PH Flywheel (not a gib key problem!)
« on: February 22, 2012, 08:40:41 AM »
I have a press, so if it comes to it, I can press the crank out.  I don't fancy stripping the engine with the flywheel attached though!

Petteroids / Re: Petter PH Flywheel (not a gib key problem!)
« on: February 21, 2012, 08:36:03 AM »
Ah, cunning.   Use the mass of the flywheel to help not hinder.   I need to take the head off anyway to work out why the compression is so poor.  And yes, I'll take the valves out first!

Thanks very much, will give it a try as soon as I have an hour with the engine!

Petteroids / Petter PH Flywheel (not a gib key problem!)
« on: February 20, 2012, 09:08:12 PM »
As I wrote the title of the thread, I had to add the comment about the gib key as I imagined most people would groan "not another stuck key".   This time it isn't a stuck key!

The engine is a PH1, pretty unmolested, down on compression and needing an overhaul.  I got it for not much more than scrap value on the 'bay, and I'm going to ovehaul the bits that need doing before it goes in my dump truck.   The dump truck engine is also down on compression, and is pretty unwilling to start on a cold morning. 

Anyway, I got a gib key puller, and with loads of WD40 and about a week of tension, it popped out.  Perfect. 

Except it isn't.  The flywheel is completely stuck solid.   I've tried walloping it with a leather mallet, I've tried jacking it off with a one of the big bolts on that side of the engine.    I've even warmed it with an oxy blow torch (warm is an appropriate word, that thing can absorb a lot of heat), and it isn't budging. 

So, what is the trick to getting a keyless flywheel off the crank?!?!

Engines / Re: SR4 Rebuild
« on: January 16, 2012, 09:24:41 PM »
And now for some good news: Sleeman have delivered a new set of undersize bearings and a couple of the felt seals for the bottom end.   

I'm pretty close to CMES, so they're going to get the grinding job.  While I'm at it, I will wire brush all of the old flakey paint off the outside of the block, then get them to put it through their parts washer.  Assembly will be easier with a nice clean block, and it will take paint rather more easily!

I've found the bolt holding the cam in, will hopefully have time next weekend to get it all ready for machining.

Engines / Re: SR4 Rebuild
« on: January 10, 2012, 07:10:23 PM »
Wow, you're quicker at checking availability than I am!  Yes, the price is ugly, but as I said, if I wanted cost effective, I'd have got a Yanmar.  Some people spend that much on a night out clubbing.  I'd rather be in the garage fixing an SR4.

I'll drop them a line and report back.   

Thrusts are fine.

Engines / Re: SR4 Rebuild
« on: January 09, 2012, 01:53:35 PM »
Hmmm.  Something told me it was unlikely to be that simple.   Thanks for checking it out though.  Digging the veg patch took priority over diesels this w/e, so no progress on the cam either.   I'll see what dieselgman comes up with, then try Sleemans.

Engines / Re: SR4 Rebuild
« on: January 06, 2012, 02:06:53 PM »
Main bearing journal diameter is 66.65 mm.  Width of the current shells is 37.something mm ( can't remember two numbers at the same time, will have to go and re measure).

Engines / Re: SR4 Rebuild
« on: January 05, 2012, 08:57:35 AM »
I'll get the micrometer out....

Engines / Re: SR4 Rebuild
« on: January 05, 2012, 08:45:50 AM »
An update.   Dieselgman has come up with a parts book and manual ( ;D).

It would appear that the cam is located using a non-obvious dowel pin.   Well, it wasn't obvious to me anyway.    I will investigate over the week end and post a few photos of the extraction.   The oil pump looks like it may be a problem.  The manual says "remove the two set screws and withdraw the pump".   I've removed the set screws, and the pump doesn't want to budge.  It may be more accessible with the big cam gear removed. 

Engines / Re: SR4 Rebuild
« on: January 04, 2012, 11:42:35 PM »
Yes, I am uk based, and I will pm you in a second for the pages.  Thanks very much!

Interesting on the cam.   I am not with the engine right now (work does have a habit of getting in the way), but the oil pump on mine appears to be gear driven by the cam.  I don't recall seeing a plunger, but I will check at the weekend.

Engines / SR4 Rebuild
« on: January 03, 2012, 05:34:22 PM »
New member here, and I've been daft enough to take on a rebuild of a rather waterlogged, but hardly used SR4.   I can see a lot of similarities with the "FR4 Project" that Reg Burns started: I'm not doing this for cost effectiveness, I'm doing it because I like decent engineering and it is a challenge.  If I wanted cost effective, I'd go and get a Yanmar....

The original plan was to have something that would drive a big compressor: 70 CFM so that I can do proper blasting.  So I was looking for a 20 - 25 HP engine that would not be stressed when delivering that power.  An SR3 wasn't quite enough so when and SR4 came seemed sensible.   How hard could it be, it's just an SR3 with an extra cylinder?  Wrong!

So this vast lump of iron arrived on a pallet.  It looked so much bigger "in the metal".   It was advertised as "seized, but no water in the bottom end".   Hmmm.    It was certainly seized. 

All of the ducting and ancillaries came off with a liberal application of WD40 and a small amount of swearing.   The starter motor works, the dynamo generates current when spun in a drill, and the manifolds look at lot better now they are cleaned up and painted.   Cylinder heads next: all in reasonable order, no valve wear at all, in fact no valve marking whatsoever, which suggests this was very low hours.   Water had been getting in through the inlet manifold, so it got progressively worse towards the front of the engine.  All pistons were seized solid, with the bores of 1 and 2 totally rusted up.   No need for subtlety in freeing them up, just the application of a 3 foot long 3/4 drive breaker bar.   Pistons in the bin, bores sent of for a bit of +2 oversize action.   I've now got new oversize pistons, and everything needed to rebuild the top end.

Fuel pumps are OK, no visible corrosion, the racks on three move easily, the last is stuck. 

Down to the crank.   The sump was filled with water and oil (no water in the bottom end ha ha), but the big ends were fine.  A bit scuffed, but fine.   The cam is perfect.  No wear or corrosion.    3/5 mains are also perfect (but the shells are trashed) but the front two have evidence of corrosion.   Not terrible, but can be felt with a fingernail and didn't respond to a bit of polishing.   The people who supplied the replacement big end shells, don't have new mains.    Hmmmm. 

So, some questions, hopefully someone out there will have the answer. 

1) What do I do with the crank?   Getting it machined is no problem, but does anyone know where to get oversize main bearings for an SR4?  Apparently they are different to the SR3/2/1 items.   

2) How do you get the cam out of the block?   And while I'm there, how do you get the oil pump out.  It looks like you press both of them...but before using force I want to be sure. 

3) Does anyone know of a parts book or workshop manual for one of these engines?

I think it would have been easier to stick with the Petter PH1s that I normally fiddle with - a lot cheaper for sure, but it will be very satisfying when it runs.   I can put photos up...not sure of forum etiquette at this stage.

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