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Messages - harryzx-12

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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Container shipping out of England
« on: January 18, 2012, 04:17:47 PM »
 It's a shame the epa asswipes regulate the importation of listeroid engines. I wish so much they would disband the epa and fire all the cocksuckers that work for the epa!

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Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: 12/1 giveaway
« on: September 26, 2011, 03:33:34 PM »
 I wish i would have joined this site sooner. I am in N. Fla.   :(

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Everything else / Re: How to remove bolts / studs some different ways
« on: September 12, 2011, 01:35:56 PM »
I used to use standard spiral EZ Outs that are like drill bits. Never pulled anything out with uhm, only sheared them off.

I asked a older mechanic friend on the island about how he did it. He showed me a set of tools. They were all about 1 1/2 inches tall, with about 3/4s being an insert of hardened tool steel into the base which was hex shaped. The tool steel has many sharp spirals running around it.

Nearest set I could find are these http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_53065_53065

Similar but they look like a single piece, which I dont trust so well, but thats a gut feeling. They also dont go upto the size he has, which is about 1/2 inch hole to tap it into with a hammer. I guess they must make it somewhere.

Rom


 I've tried this tool before. It didn't work too well in my application.

 My first job as an acft machinist (McChord AFB, Wa 1975) was to remove 34 broken bolts in a c-141 combustion case which have a lot of flanges with either 5/16-24 or 3/8 - 24 threads hardened stainless steel, ALL the holes had to be drilled and tapped. That was only a small sample of what was in store for me but i do love a challange!


 The trick to getting out broken drills/e-z outs & taps is to have a selection of dental burrs (carbide) and to grind around what is broken and then pick it out with a scribe or whatever else you prefer. Main purpose is not to damage parent metal.

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Everything else / Re: How to remove bolts / studs some different ways
« on: September 11, 2011, 02:07:48 AM »
 If there's nothing sticking up you can drill and try an e-z out . There are spiral and square. By using the square e-z out you can turn it both ways. I have had to remove thousands of broken/stuck bolts/screws.
  I was stationed ar little rock afb ark and we sometimes had to go out to the acft and remove igniter plug mounting holes. These were on a t-56 turboprop c-130. To get the bolt out you had to use a snakedrill and a mirror and it had to be perfectly straight and had to be drilled out and retapped. You have to start out EXACTLY on center or they had to pull the engine.

 When i say hammer on the stud i mean LIGHT hammering not heavy you are just trying to let the pb work down into the threads.

 As far a lister flying it might if you hooked a JATO pack to it! ;D

 i use to have a side business of removing others broken bolts, drill bits , e-z outs, or taps. I can take them out without damaging the parent threads.

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Everything else / Re: How to remove bolts / studs some different ways
« on: September 08, 2011, 03:11:53 PM »
 I have used that method (weld nut on stud). I don't like it because you are heating the stud (which expands) in the parent metal.I was an aircraft machinist for most of my career so using heat on an act in most cases is a no no.I have also been an automotive machinist.
  I hope i don't come off as a know it all because i'm not.



PB blaster penetrating oil you can buy it in wal mart or almost any automotive store (napa,advance auto, auto zone etc.

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Everything else / How to remove bolts / studs some different ways
« on: September 06, 2011, 05:11:13 PM »
   I have been a machinist since 1975.

   Best penetrating oil - PB blaster .   I have used all the military penetrating oil,mouse milk, aerokroil. PB is the best.

  I did jobs on the side when i was in the air force. A co-worker owned a model "T" or "A" and had 13 broke/stuck cylinder head studs. I had previously told him how to do it and he said he worked on it for several weeks. I got out 8 or 9 of the studs be doing the following
     squirt the pb blaster around where the stud bolt goes into parent metal. Get the smallest ball peen hammer you have and LIGHTLY tap the top and keep doing this adding pb blaster as necssary. Clamp a pair of vise grips onto the stud and try gently to turn it BOTH ways.
   If it's broke off flush you have to drill and tap the hole. The pilot hole needs to be centered.

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Engines / Re: reboring cylinders using a boring stand
« on: September 05, 2011, 11:31:15 PM »
 You should no problem as long as you set it up correctly. I have a quik-way fn boring bar with the 054 boring fixture. i also have a van norman 999 boring bar. I've been a machinist since 1975.

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