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Messages - AdeV

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 37
1
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: Lister 6HP CS in Cornwall;
« on: October 17, 2020, 05:17:21 PM »
Hi, 38 AC..... Its good to get a reply from Ohio.
 Yes, I see your point but I seem to remember there are some followers of the site here in the UK also.
I haven't been on this site for 7 years now.
I think even if you lived 'down the road' and you did see the engine, you would leave it where it is,
It would need, new liner and block and piston and rings (because it looks like someone has tried to hone the 'Listard' liner.)
 Also valves and all the external governing gear/rods, levers, springs etc.
Also replacement main and big end bearings and perhaps shaft regrind. Also manifold pipes etc.
Chris.

Chuck it on eBay as "untested" :D  Is it seized? No good for me, unfortunately, I just don't have the spare floor space for it, nor the time to do it justice.

2
Petteroids / Re: Ph2 engine smoking
« on: October 14, 2020, 12:25:32 PM »
Thanks for the quick reply just to be sure are you talking about the piston rings cheers

He is: There's usually 2 or 3 rings on a piston. The top ring (or top two) are compression rings, designed to keep the compression & combustion pressure in the top half of the cylinder; the bottom ring is an oil control ring, which is responsible for the scrape-on-scrape-off of oil on the cylinder bore. If this is not "scrape-off"ing properly, then as the piston descends on the power stroke, it'll burn the oil that was left on the cylinder wall as well, resulting in much smoke (usually blue). However, I'm not convinced it'd leave enough oil, by itself, to cause the engine to be unstoppable by normal means (fuel rack). So I suspect you're ingesting oil from somewhere else too.

3
Engines / Re: Help locating the coolant drain on a LPWS4
« on: October 12, 2020, 03:44:33 PM »
Very strange that there are welsh plugs that are lower than that drain.

Do you mean the core plug that's apparent roughly mid-way between the oil & fuel filters? I don't think that's for water... although I could be wrong.

4
Things I want to Buy / Re: HB3 block
« on: October 08, 2020, 09:57:02 AM »
It's highly unlikely there'll be a difference in the blocks. It's probably just the governor springs/weights which are different between the two engines. e.g. the LD1 engines have all kinds of speed ratings, but they're all basically identical.

5
Engines / Re: Help locating the coolant drain on a LPWS4
« on: October 07, 2020, 07:26:50 PM »
Last one: Look at this picture (same site as above):



The bottom hose connection is visible (in line with the top of the red band on the auxiliary belt); just below & behind that connector is what looks like a big brass nut. I bet that's to drain the system...

6
Engines / Re: Help locating the coolant drain on a LPWS4
« on: October 07, 2020, 07:21:44 PM »
Assuming this is a marine engine, and you say you've got a heat exchanger, I assume it's using canal/river/sea water for cooling? If so, you should have 4 hoses on your heat exchanger: Two will go to the engine, and the other two will be inlet & outlet to whatever water your boat is currently in.

It should be fairly straightforward to find which hose(s) go to the engine, but as for draining the system.... I think we'll need some pictures for that.

Here's a couple of pictures of one with a radiator on it (I think it's the same as yours, or similar at least):


(photo credit: https://www.marinepowerservices.co.uk)

Looking at that, you've got a block on the front of the engine with both the inlet & outlet coolant passing through it. One way to drain the system would be to undo the lower fitting, but how accessible that is (and whether you can catch the coolant or not) is a question I can't answer...   Actually, it might be worth giving Marine Power Services a call, see if they can steer you in the right direction?

PS: the "bottom hose" is visible on the 2nd pic, going to the lower LH corner of the radiator. Typically one undoes that hose, and watches the coolant fly everywhere except into the bucket you put underneath it!

7
Engines / Re: SL1 stalling warm
« on: October 06, 2020, 07:22:04 AM »
Hi JP,

Could you do a massive favour, and document your strip-down and rebuild, with plenty of photos? I've been planning to add a documentation site to LEF for some time, this could be the first "user made manual" to go into it, if you'd be willing.

Cheers,
Ade.

8
Engines / Re: SL1 stalling warm
« on: September 30, 2020, 05:01:03 PM »
The fuel temperature should never be able to exceed the crankcase oil temperature as the oil flowing to the cylinder head returns to the sump inside the upper crankcase door and over the injector pump and incoming fuel line.

So... unless the engine is getting far too hot, that shouldn't be an issue. Still, worth checking?

I like the tappet clearance possibility; that would certainly cause the engine to quit. I'd expect a bit of white smoke as it did so, as the injected fuel sorta-burns off in the heat of the combustion chambers. It's also a doddle to fix - well, assuming the rockers are reasonably easy to get at (I've never knowingly seen an SL engine).



9
Engines / Re: SL1 stalling warm
« on: September 30, 2020, 08:10:21 AM »
Agree with Cobbadog on that one - best upload the video to Youtube & link it here. We're a bit limited on disk space right now, so hosting video clips is not really possible...

Based on the description, it does sound like you might be getting fuel vaporisation in the high pressure line; does it go particularly close to the cylinder head perhaps?

10
Engines / Re: SL1 stalling warm
« on: September 29, 2020, 12:03:18 PM »
Hi JP,

Some questions:

Is it easy to turn over when it's hot? Easier than when it's cold? Or the other way around - really stiff to turn when hot?
Does it smoke at any time when running (and if so, what colour)? Is it smoking when it's stalling out?
Does it gradually slow down and stop, or does it just quit all of a sudden?
If you try to start it when hot, what does it sound like? Wheezy or normal? Do you get any white smoke?

I'm sure others will chime in with questions & suggestions that I haven't thought of.

11
General Discussion / Re: Mad spammer attack
« on: September 03, 2020, 05:58:00 PM »
I'm curious what you do to sort out the spam from the authentic ham or what ever the slang is for valid candidates.

Hi Casey,

It's actually fairly straightforward, most of the time. We've got a mod installed which highlights suspected spammers, by username, e-mail and IP address. Email is the most reliable indicator, and IP address is pretty reliable too. Username less so (as you can see from the attached screenshot).

The recent sudden massive surge in applications are mostly from email addresses with a certain set of patterns; so I can add ban triggers which will automatically reject attempts to register (with an appropriate message). Obviously I can't use that on all of the mail types - we get a lot of spam registrations with gmail.com addresses - but also a lot of valid registrations.... In those cases, I basically rely on the red indicator.

There's a couple of other tricks: One is to look at the username & e-mail address; often they are similar for legit registrations. Or the username is something obviously Lister, engine or possibly occupation related. If it looks like a random collection of characters, or two random words mashed together, that's a warning. If it looks like a name & the mail address looks like a totally different name, that's also a warning - not always accurate though.

Finally, if the e-mail address bounced the "welcome" message for any reason (doesn't exist, has spam controls on it, is full), then the user is rejected. Life's too short to go chasing after people who make it hard to get in touch.

Occasionally - just occasionally - a spammer makes it through all the checks unscathed, and then it's a retrospective ban &  cleanup time :D You've all seen that a couple of times...

Anyway - my train is about to arrive at my destination, so it's time to go....

Cheers,
Ade.


12
General Discussion / Mad spammer attack
« on: August 31, 2020, 10:48:12 AM »
At the moment, I've got hundreds of spammers trying to register accounts at LEF. Most of these are being caught by the spam trap, but it does mean I'm wading through 100-200 new registrations per day.... so - if you're registering for real, it might take a day or two before you get authorised.

Hopefully normal service will resume fairly soon.

13
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister CS 6/1 running to slow
« on: August 24, 2020, 08:12:15 AM »

The governor mechanism and the fuel injector pump rack appear to be operating smoothly but it only runs at about 400 RPM. With a little pressure on one end of the rack, it will run at over 650 RPM, once that pressure is released the governor spring pulls the rack back and it returns to around 400 RPM. Just judging by feel, if I fitted a second additional governor spring I might get it up to 500 RPM.


The CS has a long threaded rod with which one can tweak the RPM; it basically just pulls on the governer spring to increase the tension. If yours is a 'roid, I don't know if it has the same thing?


Does anyone know if there were different governor weights for different applications? Judging by the awful sticky sh1t I cleaned out of this unit I would say that it had been in a sugar mill or sugar cane processing plant, perhaps it was intended to run at a lower RPM.

Another possibility is that the new element I fitted in the injector pump is under sized and not delivering enough fuel.


As far as I am aware, there are only 3 defined speeds for CS engines: 600rpm (for 3/1, 5/1 engines), 650rpm (3.5/1, 6/1) and 800rpm (8/1 - not sure on the rpm figure for that one). I'm not aware of any factory 400rpm sets; however, it may have been modified by a previous owner...

I've never actually seen a CS governer weight; but if it's maxing out at 400rpm they're too heavy - which is good, because you can lighten them with a lathe/mill/file/axe/spoon (whatever you have handy  ;D) to achieve proper running speed; then trim with the governer spring adjustment.

It won't be fuel starvation; if it were, the engine wouldn't run any faster & the rack would be pegged fully open.


14
Engines / Re: Timing information
« on: August 18, 2020, 07:39:11 PM »
Looks like yours is a post-1970 engine; so the serial number is a bit different.

35 = no. years after 1950 + 50 (i.e. 1985)
00091 = the engine number (so quite early in the year)
STW2 = the engine type
C = rotation - i.e. clockwise
01 = build number.

The "Unit" number is actually more like the pre-1970 serial no; which would suggest:
Unit no. 4792
Type STW2
MG = Marine Propulsion
85 = the year.

However, I'd go with the top number for your engine details.


15
Everything else / Re: Blasphemy..... Solar power.
« on: August 17, 2020, 11:09:13 AM »

Just did my reads and another advance on the max daily solar generation.

97.3 Kwh.

When one thinks about it, that's really a lot of power to produce from a generator. 
On a 15 KW output unit, that's over 6 hours run time. For a 24 hr period, one would have to be producing a fraction over 4 Kw non stop. 


Interesting... that's basically the equivalent of running a 10hp Lister continuously (a 10/2)... I wonder what the fuel usage on that would be? I've only got a 6/1 & haven't done any fuel usage calcs... Assuming you wanted to run 24/7 on veg oil you grew on your own land, how many acres (hectares if you speak French) would you need to do that?

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