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Messages - sarawnw

Pages: [1] 2
1
Listeroid Engines / Re: Engine cooling expansion tank placement.
« on: December 04, 2012, 01:57:41 AM »
Thanks everyone for the reply. Makes alot of sense.
I have the valve on the lower or cold side of the heat exchanger, i'll reduce flow to keep operating temperature more constant.

Happy holidays

Sara
 

2
Listeroid Engines / Engine cooling expansion tank placement.
« on: December 03, 2012, 08:13:13 PM »
Hi All,

I want to increase the efficiency of the cooling system and reduce the amount of water vapor from the expansion tank.

Back round info:  I have 12/2 Lister that is cooled with a heat exchanger using the typical thermal siphon setup.  There are 190 F thermostats for each cylinder head, with 3/16 bypass holes to let the air thru.  There is an expansion tank connected to the top of the heat exchanger  similar to every one Else's it seams.  When the thermostats open up, a rush of hot water expands into the tank then gets sucked back into the engine and heat exchanger when the water cools.  There is 1" hose from the engine to the heat exchanger with a rise of 1.5 feet.  The return line from the heat exchanger to the engine is just above level with the same type 1" radiator hose. The best I could do with the room I have and the size of the heat exchanger, system works well. 

Question:
What would be the problem if the expansion tank was connected to the cold engine side of the heat exchanger and have a valve at the engine hot side of the heat exchanger to let the air out?  The expansion tank would still need to be the same height to ensure the system is filled with water.

Has this ever been done before and what where the problems?

Why would you want to do this?  More of the hot water would get pushed through heat exchanger to be cooled by the secondary storage tank water and maybe capture more heat.  There would be less water vapor into the air and  still keep the pressure in the primary side of the cooling system low? 


Any all comments welcome, further explanations gladly given. 


Sara 

3
Listeroid Engines / Re: Injector pump rebuild
« on: April 12, 2012, 09:50:42 AM »
 :D
Hi All,

Rebuilding the injection pump is easy with the exception of the spring that holds everything together.  If you are using WVO,  it's my experience that you need to clean the injection pump once a year if your running the engine 24/7 or close to that. 

The problem is that WVO is thick and tends to clog the injection pump drain hole at the bottom of the pump.  The injection pump then gets sticky or sluggish,  governor operation degrades, looking for all the possible solutions with out success and the injection pump is the only thing left.  There are several directions on line on how to disassemble, clean and reassemble the injection pump.    A vice or c clamp, socket, small screw driver, some wrenches and a bucket of kerosene is all you really need. 

The other piece of information relating to this,  I changed the injection timing from 18 degrees to 22 degrees and the amount of fuel noticeably decreased, carbon buildup rate decreased, injection pump gunk build up rate decreased.  Speed regulation improved and engine is more responsive.  The best part is that I don't have to tear down the engine every 2 months, more like 4 months and the job is much easier.  The bad part about the 22 degree injection timing is diesel fuel does not run very well at all and you need to change over to WVO immediately.  In warm weather,  you can start on WVO.  The amount of heat from the cooling water has also decreased which is tolerable since I can use an electric heater in the winter and cooling in the summer is much easier. 




I hope this helps

sara

4
Listeroid Engines / Re: Air filters and listeroids
« on: September 13, 2009, 01:28:43 PM »
Hi Jens,

Thank you for providing the information.  The link for the picture to the first filter  is broken. 

How did the solberg filter work? 

If the engine room gets up to 120F,  is that to hot for intake air?   

A curious girl ::)

sara

5
Generators / Re: st generator fan replacement
« on: September 12, 2009, 12:13:13 PM »
Hi
Thank you for the response.  I have been looking locally and sent emails to several of the motor repair shops on the internet without sucess. 

The problem appears to be the large shaft size of 42mm.  Forgive my ignorance,  is this a abnormally large size motor shaft? 

What is the common name for this part that moves through the generator, Fan , Blower, 

Is there a company or a catalog that I can order one from? 

Your exactly right about the plastic,  there was bubles in the plastic where one of the breaks occured. 

sara

6
Generators / st generator fan replacement
« on: September 07, 2009, 06:21:26 PM »
Hi

I have a ST-12 generator head that gave up the plastic fan.  Does any have any ideas were to find a replacement?

The generator has about 2,000 hours operating time in a approximately 90 to 100 F  ambient temperature.  From the breaks, it looks like it may have been cracked originally and I did not notice during the initial  tear down.   I do not believe I cracked it during assembly.

Has any one used external cooling fan to cool a generator?  What do I need to look for?


Any help would great be appreciated


Sara

7
Listeroid Engines / Re: Fluid level sensor
« on: March 17, 2009, 09:32:45 PM »
Hi all,

It might not work for warm VO since it was designed for water.  I have had that problem with other level sensors that use bouncy to move something. 

sara

8
Listeroid Engines / Re: EPA rules on importing a listeroid
« on: February 23, 2009, 02:48:10 PM »
please  :-*

9
Listeroid Engines / Re: Soot - how to remove it
« on: February 18, 2009, 02:33:52 PM »
LowSpeedLife,

Nice suggestion, I'll have to try that.  I generally use Dawn dish liquid and some sand.  Don't use to much in the washing machine,  makes suds all over.  It will surelly get who ever did not do it up set.   ::)

sara

10
Listeroid Engines / Re: Crancase breather on a listeroid twin
« on: February 18, 2009, 12:09:55 AM »
Hi All


Sealing the box would make the engine sound level much lower too.  Should probably bring the intake outside though,  run it through a muffler and air cleaner.  that way, the compressor pump required would be smaller.   

Just run the exhaust inside the box, alot of pressure would be generated then.  Use the breather to let out the excess pressure. 

Just brain storming,  I have small leaks to.  The thread is very interesting and I am glad you started it. 

sara

11
Generators / Re: electro/dynamic alternator
« on: February 12, 2009, 10:41:11 PM »
Hi,

Tell us more, do you have pictures?

Manufacture, Model, year

sara

12
Listeroid Engines / Re: Exhaust noise reduction
« on: February 11, 2009, 11:05:57 PM »
Hi Jens,

Can you put more dirt over the pipe ;D
maybe just leave it and say it's a mexican jumping bean bed ::)

There was some a while back that suggested using a 55 gallon drum,  feed the muffled exhaust in one side and place a pipe up in the air from the other bumg hole.  The result was heavy breathing, and would get upset hearing that. 

I tried this with a plastic 55 gallon drum,  the sound level went from 68dBa to just over 40 dBa from 3 feet away.  Sounded almost like heavy breathing of an old man.  Some back pressure in large flexible container works wonders. 

One problem is rain water gets in the drum due to the pipe in the air. you need to dump the water out along with the soot that collects. 
I like the idea of fertulizing the garden, keeping the plants warm.  Some people plant crops indoors and use lots of lights for this reason, huge electric bills.  I guess you would not have to worry about that either.   8)

stay clean

sara


13
Listeroid Engines / Re: Which would you choose????
« on: February 02, 2009, 06:16:41 PM »
Hi All,

Thank you for the support,  I only know what I have done and trying to understand how it relates to the big picture.   
I really do need to understand injection timing and how to do it methodically. 
This 12/2 runs  better at lower RPM, smoother, to be descriptive.

The pointed bolt sounds llike a great idea, thanks

have a great day

sara

14
Listeroid Engines / Re: Expansion Chamber
« on: January 31, 2009, 06:52:04 PM »
Hi all,

Just trying to get pictures in an email.  This is the stub muffler system drawings.  I used the fact that 1 inch pipe fits well in an 1 1/4 inch pipe to ease teat downs and general maintenance.  The ends of exposed pipe is sealed with silicon or muffler tape if leaks are a problem. 

http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=639

The resulting sound level was approximately 68 dBa at 3 feet

There is a better way

The second attempt uses almost the same parts and produces 52 dBa (approximately)  at 3 feet.

http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=642

The drawings are poor but hopefully conveys the ideas :-[
OOPS THE PICTURES DID NOT APPEAR< CHECK THE PICTURE GALLERY

sara


15
Listeroid Engines / Re: Which would you choose????
« on: January 31, 2009, 05:19:24 PM »
Hi Rab,

I did not turn the dippers as of yet.  I am buying xyzers dippers and will do it then.  Maybe I should turn them sooner, I was going by a few statements made on the Utterpower website and or CD.  Is it feasable to drill out the far side top mounting bolt for cam shaft to drip oil on the undriven side of the cam shaft?  May be place a tube on the inside of engine from the mounting bolt to the cam?


This is a roid, a fieldmarshall at that.  From what I have read,  this engine is more of a mistake than the norm for most riods from that part of the world,  and I am thankful. 

Running at a little higher RPM is good news,  I was running a little low with the idea that appliances made today would run on 50 or 60 hz for a global economy.  I have no facts to support this for electric motors, only electronic equipment which uses switching power supplies. 

Thank you for the reply

sara

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