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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Wmo
« on: December 28, 2010, 01:35:06 PM »
Well dang it was planning on getting a lister genset and running it on wmo. Now it seems like problems will have to be overcome to do that.
Filtering should help reduce the amount of ash but does not appear to be able to fix the problem. A water mister might be helpful especially in dry climates. It seems that the cylinders are being reported as fairly clean when run on wmo so the water would be more to lower the exhaust temps at the exhaust valve and smooth out the knocks than to clean out the carbon. Might be helpful if it is too hot at the exhaust and that is what is causing the wear on the sleeve there.
IF you have a sufficient supply then cracking the oil is a very viable option. You can use the wmo as the fuel for the burner to run the unit. It would get rid of several problems if done correctly and provide a cleaner fuel to work with. To simplify things it should be done as a batch distill rather than a constant feed. You will need to have an adjustable thermostat for burner control. Sorry but I do not have the temperature list handy for the settings needed. I could find it but have to go to work now. I think it would work this way. First you distill off the water at 212 f or slightly higher (adjusted for elevation) this would work better if you had no water to deal with so you could collect the light distillates like Bottleveg suggested. Then turn up the heat to the temp needed for vaporizing motor oil. It should make a clean oil free of most additives and contaminates that could be burned in a lister. Cool empty the sludge and start again. Anyone that can distill alcohol should be able to crack oil.
You can vacuum distill but that seems a bigger project than heat distilling.
Got to go to work
Finis
Filtering should help reduce the amount of ash but does not appear to be able to fix the problem. A water mister might be helpful especially in dry climates. It seems that the cylinders are being reported as fairly clean when run on wmo so the water would be more to lower the exhaust temps at the exhaust valve and smooth out the knocks than to clean out the carbon. Might be helpful if it is too hot at the exhaust and that is what is causing the wear on the sleeve there.
IF you have a sufficient supply then cracking the oil is a very viable option. You can use the wmo as the fuel for the burner to run the unit. It would get rid of several problems if done correctly and provide a cleaner fuel to work with. To simplify things it should be done as a batch distill rather than a constant feed. You will need to have an adjustable thermostat for burner control. Sorry but I do not have the temperature list handy for the settings needed. I could find it but have to go to work now. I think it would work this way. First you distill off the water at 212 f or slightly higher (adjusted for elevation) this would work better if you had no water to deal with so you could collect the light distillates like Bottleveg suggested. Then turn up the heat to the temp needed for vaporizing motor oil. It should make a clean oil free of most additives and contaminates that could be burned in a lister. Cool empty the sludge and start again. Anyone that can distill alcohol should be able to crack oil.
You can vacuum distill but that seems a bigger project than heat distilling.
Got to go to work
Finis