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Messages - listard-jp2

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 43
1
Things I want to Buy / Re: lister D type cam shaft
« on: February 19, 2022, 09:08:02 PM »
If your still looking for a camshaft, here is what seems to be a good used example:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144422521423



2
Things I want to Buy / Re: lister D type cam shaft
« on: February 10, 2022, 07:29:45 PM »
Ask this ebay seller:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255371550681

As he has loads of new parts for Lister D. Get back to me if he has and I will PM you his phone number.

3
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: February 04, 2022, 05:45:45 PM »
Posted in error

4
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: February 03, 2022, 06:22:55 PM »
I think some engines didn't have a Z, but rather had an A for anticlockwise, like his engine.  My clockwise rotation SR2 has no suffix letter

Apologies for any confusion but the Z made an appearance when Lister became Lister Petter. The SR range was before the LP merger. Looking at your pictures your SR is Anti clockwise rotation ( the style of bellh ousing is the dead giveaway)

OP, your still going to need that spacer between the bell housing and starter motor I mentioned in my previous post.

5
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: January 30, 2022, 10:41:36 AM »
I can see the image:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=133970436456&_sacat=0

Yes from the picture, that looks to be what to be what your looking for.

However, be aware of the following:

1) Ensure the direction of rotation of the starter motor is correct, as Lister's definition of direction of rotation has caught many people over the years (NOTE! If your engine serial number has SR2A, the A indicates anti clockwise rotation)

2), You will need a spacer to go between the starter motor and bell housing, like so:

      https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265239226729?hash=item3dc17d6969:g:evoAAOSwdjVg-bIX

 This is for the HA series that use the Lucas CA45 starter motor, but the general shape is very similar to the SR engine.

3), Finaly confirm that the number of teeth on the bendix is correct.

6
Things I want to Buy / Re: JP3 Lister
« on: December 16, 2021, 06:57:10 PM »

Its back yet again, and just got another 50 GBP cheaper.

Now 600 GBP

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275066832942

7
Petteroids / Re: Petter PC1 Engine in a Crawley 75 Tractor
« on: December 12, 2021, 07:30:19 PM »
If you are still looking for a an jector for your PC1 engine, here is one on ebay UK at present:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284564971770






8
Things I want to Buy / Re: JP3 Lister
« on: December 09, 2021, 07:00:02 AM »
Its back again, and just got another 50 GBP cheaper.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275056694043


9
Engines / Re: LPW2 Build 902 change fixed to variable speed
« on: December 06, 2021, 09:12:45 PM »
Try roger Drennan, at Cotswold Diesel Engines.

He may have that part as a good used item. If so he will want a fraction of the price you have been quoted.

https://gb.kompass.com/c/cotswold-diesel-servicing/gb07710907/

10
Listeroid Engines / Re: Big end wear or damage
« on: December 03, 2021, 05:53:15 PM »
The same engineer suggested unbolting the conrod and checking for wear/damage with a view to replacing the bearing. Now I have seen there are different thicknesses of replacement bearings shells to ( I assume) account for wear such as I may have. He suggested this should be an easy thing to do and check... he's experienced I am not

As your engine is relatively new, the big end journals should still be on standard size, and if your lucky and caught it soon enough. You may be able to get away with just replacing the big end shell bearings (after polishing the big end journals).

However the condition of the big end journals is going to determine if this is a viable solution. If they are scored you may end up needing a crank grind on the big end journals.

Finally I would suggest replacing the big end shell bearings on the other cylinder whilst your in there.


My questions to the enlightened is ..... is is a relatively simple thing to unbolt the conrod via the open side of the crankcase.


Yes, I have done this myself on numerous occasions, however as your engine is installed in a narrow boat, you will not find it particularly easy.

Then is it a matter of checking the surface as well as measurements of the shaft the conrod bearing clamps to. If there is not real wear replace the shell bearing with like for like ....


Yes and Yes, Standard journal size would be 2.4975/2.498" if we were dealing with a genuine Lister CS engine, but more importantly is ovality of the journal. More that 0.002" out of round and your into regrind territory.


If there is wear replacing the shell bearing with one to compensate for the wear?

Yes, upto 0.0060" undersize. However, be sure to specify a Lead / Indium bearing for the top half bearing shell, because if you fit a white metal version you will knock out he big end in no time.


Obviously if the crankshaft surface is damaged too badly i expect that it is the crankshaft out to have it build up and turned back to spec?


It will be ground to the undersize (in 0.010" increments) at which the journal cleans up at.

Why not take it back to Redshaw's for some corrective surgery (that is if your not to far away)


11
Listeroid Engines / Re: Big end wear or damage
« on: December 03, 2021, 11:43:55 AM »

OP, is that a genuine Lister CS 16/2 engine you have in your canal boat?

Or is something more like this (and of Indian origin)?

https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Publicity.html

12
Things I want to Buy / Re: JP3 Lister
« on: December 02, 2021, 07:10:05 PM »
/\ Indeed it was on ebay last week, but it's back again and this time it is a 100 GBP cheaper. If the price keeps dropping I might be tempted myself, for more spares for my own JP2 engines.

The 3 cylinder lump looks to have worn through the chrome plated cylinder liners at TDC, also note the hole in the side of the cylinder head on the 3 cylinder engine, that is for a cylinder head mounted water pump.

FYI: As these are genuine Lister engine, no need to have them stripped down for import in the USA, as they predate the EPA ban under 'Grand father rights'

13
Things I want to Buy / Re: JP3 Lister
« on: December 02, 2021, 06:59:13 AM »
If you like a challenge, then this could be for you:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275048003511?hash=item400a2377b7:g:EgMAAOSwlglhnhL8

However, be aware that genuine JP spares are next to near non existent in your part of the world, and you will most likely need to source parts from India.

Whilst the JP engine is far more robust than its CS relative, it has always been an engine for people with deep pockets, due to the supply of genuine spares largely now been concentrated in the hands of a few UK based dealers.

14
Petteroids / Re: Petter PC1 Engine in a Crawley 75 Tractor
« on: October 24, 2021, 01:20:50 PM »
/\ I would put money on that been an Indian produced item (the Bryce Berger company ceased to exist when Delphi took them over). If your interested I could supply you with a used Bryce injector holder from a Petter PH for less that that.

Having looked into this further myself, I can confirm that injector holder will fit (you may have to increase the length of the injector holding down studs).

However, the injector shroud from a PH will be no good, this item you will have to make from bar stock (either copper or aluminium.

PM me with your email address and if my memory serves me correct we can discuss in more detail what the injector shroud should look like.

 

15
Petteroids / Re: Petter PC1 Engine in a Crawley 75 Tractor
« on: October 20, 2021, 09:38:07 PM »
Having had a bit to do with Petter PC engines, I can confirm that a PAZ1 injector holder will not be suitable. Early PAZ1 injectors are clamped in position with a bridge piece (much like a Lister CS). Later ones dispense with the bridge piece, but are still not suitable as the high pressure fuel connection is at a compound angle to the vertical axis of the piston. Hence if you tried a complete injector assembly from a PAZ1 engine in a PC1. there would be a good chance that the injector spray pattern would be wrong as it would not entirely line up with the combustion chamber in the PC piston crown.

IMHO you would be better to use a Bryce injector holder from a Petter PH or PJ engine, as they look very similar to the correct PC injector holder. Do you have the injector shroud or is that also missing? Both of these items are easily found on the likes of Ebay etc.
If so you may be able to use the same item from a PH engine, though you may need to modify it somewhat.

IIRC The injector shroud on a PC engine was turned out of copper bar, and was a real work of art.

The injector nozzle from either a Petter AV, or PH may be a better choice, as the combustion chamber design is similar to the PC engine (valve cutouts), whereas the PAZ1 combustion chamber has no valve cutouts in the piston crown.

Finally I suggest that you contact Jim Perkins, as he has a website for Petter engines, and may be able to help you with a source of parts.

I do have some used PC parts myself (no injectors or injector shrouds) from a PC2 I rescued from a scrapyard just for the electric start parts, and which I am now looking to move on, as I have no further need for these parts.

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