I did not see a poll ?

My interest is generating power off-grid, mostly in winter or in summer when smoke is too thick for solar harvest.

Thought this might be of interest here....

http://edge.rit.edu/edge/P14453/public/Research/2-_LEADER_-_Understanding_Journal_Bearings.pdf

regards,
nick

site wants me to log in ,  not being a student, I don't think it's going to work for me. 

I don't know if ultrasonics will get that deep through the mass and around corners.    In our shop in the USMC, we had an ultrasonic cleaner for teletypes, to get all the ink, paper dust and dried grease off them.  Took about 30 min or so, for what is essentially an open frame typewriter.   
  I've heard ATF and Acetone, 50/50 is a good soak agent, but you will need a sturdy tank with a lid to keep the acetone from evaporating away ( and sucking humidity out of the air - leaving you with water and ATF ) and a safe place to park it for days, maybe shake it a bit daily, move the crud around.    Auto transmission shops often have a hot tank cleaner, for aluminum transmissions, likely safe for Iron.  Get the worst off before your month long soak.

  I don't recall if hot Lye will cut carbon, but it will eat anything non-iron

The most efficient solar water heating is vacuum tubes. ........

Yes, but the 5+ year failure rate on the tubes is abysmal.  I see way too many folks looking for replacement tubes, developing schemes to recharge the tubes with acetone or something ( I love sweat soldering a tube with acetone in it ) to even want to bother with any of the vacuum tube systems.   Often, many tubes have failed, but the rest of them keep the system going for a while.

The nuts must be tightened properly! The stress on connecting rod bolts is cyclic and they will eventually fail, "IF" not tightened to a certain level of stretch.

Put another way, once the bolt stretches and clamps the 2 pieces together, the bolt never feels any additional force, as the running loads are lower than the stretch force.

Thank you, I didn't know.  I was going to treat them like the castle nuts on the tractor wheels.  So far, I've not had any issues needing to open them up

i had to "crown" the engine flywheel side, to keep the belt from wandering.  I used about 3 layers of 10mil plumbing tape.  Been working for years.  Wrap in the direction so the belt tightens the tape, or it will loosen it and throw it all off in a few minutes

Thanks guys, I’m not too picky but there is some pitting on the smooth outer surface of my flywheels and I want to fill those.

There's going to be some centrifugal force there.  Whatever you use, clean well and stand clear.  You could have a BB launcher

What is all that white stuff in the pictures?   Are you near the ocean / salt spray ??