Here is some pretty good descriptive instruction for pump timing courtesy of another member... sorry I can't recall the thread or name at this time.

We've all done it, and we've have had success at it, but we've probably done it 'differently'.

Let's talk about the 'spill timing' of the injector pump tappet.

I've had problems in the past with the tappet itself and had to make a new one at about 6000 hours. The symptoms of that were SO weird it took weeks to track it down to the tappet which had become 'self-adjusting' through worn out thread that would jump back and forth. I'll write that up separately.

Here's how Ive *finally* learned to do it.

"EXPERIENCE" Recognizing a mistake when you make it again.

It's handy to have a fuel supply shut-off with in reach. Also have a bucket and a pile of rags or paper towels to fill it with once they're soaked with fuel. Bleeding the fuel system is about as messy as bleeding a hog.

My parts book doesn't have the nomenclature of the fuel pump parts. I'm going to use 'metering valve', 'spring' and 'cap' for the three parts that comes off when loosened at the top. The 'spring' can be an escape artist.

Fuel lines have residual 'talcum' in them that prevents 'wetting' immediately. That's where the little bubbles come from. Fill a length of fuel hose with fuel and 'waller it around' (Southern descriptive term of twisting, turning, and flexing) Cap the ends with screws or thumbs. Slap it around some and allow the fuel to 'pre-wet' the line.

SET-UP--

From hard experience, FIRST check and then re-check and then *certify* the cam is in time with the engine. Don't assume the Indians did it right. And don't assume *you* did either!
Watch the intake tappet..it should start to lift at 5 deg. before TDC. Thats' about an inch BTDC on the rim of most 6-1 flywheels.

For this discussion I'm going to assume the engine is set up to run with oil in the crankcase, gib keys tight and flywheels 'rung' for soundness AND marked for Top Dead Center (TDC) with something easy to see.
Mark TDC on the outer AND inner rim of the flywheel so you know where it is when it's otherwise out of sight.

Measure the circumference of the flywheel and divide by 18. that's 20 degrees. Measure and mark 20 BEFORE TDC on the fly wheel. The mark will be to the 'right' of the TDC mark.
I use the throttle pivot bolt head as a reference point because it's close and handy and seems 'natural'. It's also the most dangerous one place on a Listeroid....it's a finger trap that will complicate your life. Watch out.

I use metal stamps to mark TDC and injector timing mark once I *know* it was right. I STRONGLY suggest using metal marking paint or other heavy duty, but not permanent marks to start with. It's astounding how easy it is to screw this job up!

GETTING STARTED--
Take the cap, spring and metering valve off the top of the fuel pump and loosen the banjo. Turn on the fuel and thump the lines until the fuel pouring out of the banjo is bubble-free. Tighten the banjo bolt and turn off the fuel so you can clean up what missed the rags placed to catch it. (gravity has a 'windage factor' when it comes to fuel.)

Remove the metering valve and it's spring, but put the cap back on.  This is IMPORTANT.  Without the cap in the innards aren't lined up right.
Now there's probably a 'mound' of fuel sitting on top of the that cap. Wipe it off until there's just a puddle in the middle. With the exhaust valve lifted and the fuel turned off at the tank but the throttle bar 'on' (down), rotate the flywheel clockwise, slowly and watch that fuel puddle. The puddle is responding to a plunger in the pump that's run by the fuel pump tappet underneath, which is lifted by the cam lobe.
GET THIS STRAIGHT-- the cam lobe only comes around once every TWO revolutions. The cam is half speed of the crank.
Rotate until the fuel puddle rises up and stop. Where is the TDC mark?

If the TDC mark is to the *left* when the fuel wells up you are *advanced* That's good. We want it 20 degrees advanced. Time to fine tune it.

If the TDC mark is to the *right* it means it's retarded and the tappet should be lowered about six full turns and try it again. Get it roughly 'advanced' and then go on to the next step.

TAPPET ADJUSTMENTS--
The tappet head and lock nut are about 7/8" and can be a tipping point for claustaphobics. I've found two little six inch Crescent (style) wrenches that will open up that far and are a life saver!

Turn on the fuel and rock the flywheel to the left until the fuel wells up and overflows the valve cap to replenish the fuel supply for timing and then turn off the fuel supply again.

Now, with the TDC mark at about nine O'clock and the correct TDC is the one coming up, (give the engine several revolutions to be sure where you are).

The fuel in the top of the metering valve cap should be stable as the flywheel is SLOWLY moved clockwise, but suddenly *begin* to rise up just as the 20 BTDC mark gets to the index. It's easy to rock the flywheel back and forth through this spot and adjust the tappet to make it sho-nuff right. It's MUCH easier to lower the tappet to make adjustments to it. It's hard to keep track of where you are when doing it, though. Expect to do a lot of flywheel turning. When the tappet is in the best position to adjust it the danged counterweights are in the way!

IMPORTANT--
The tappet CHANGES when the locking nut is tightened. BE sure the final timing check is with the locking nut tightened.

TESTING--

Now that the timing is set it's time to see how it changes...and it can.

Turn on the fuel supply, wrap a rag around the fuel pump and crank the engine through a dozen 'firing' strokes, but with the valve still lifted, and watch the top of the pump. There'll probably be a few bubbles at first then it'll settle down to making a mess with nothing but fuel. SLowly rotate the flywheel around and check the fuel spill in relation to the timing mark again. Still good?
Good.

FINISH--

Re-install the metering valve and it's spring and tighten the cap. Be sure all surfaces are clean before tightening. Rotate the engine through several times with the fuel valve 'on'. It should squirt fuel and a few bubbles at first, but clear up after half a dozen firings.
Now attach the high pressure line at the bottom but leave the top undone from the injector. Line everything up so the bottom is tight in the final position but the top is about a quarter inch from the injector.

Here's the place where an energetic kid is really handy...as long as you don't have to feed him.

Crank the engine until fuel spurts from the end of the high pressure line. At first (just after the coronary starts, usually), there'll be bubbles in the fuel. Rap the line with something to break them loose faster and keep turning (or urging on the urchin) until the spurt is clear fuel.

WHILE STILL TURNING, tighten the top connector to the fuel injector. You should hear the odd mettalic cricket of the injector firing after about no more than more four turns of the crank.

IF you still have the energy to release the valve lifter after the third 'tink' you should be rewarded with smoke and the SWEETEST noise....

If not---- Just stop and try to figure out where YOU went wrong.

Cam timing is the FIRST step in trouble-shooting!!!!

If you hear the injector AND you have compression AND the engine doesn't start. The TIMING is off. PERIOD.

Sir ,
    Thanks For The Tips  .There Are a Few Things I did Not Understand I Will Ask That In Due Time  .

20 thou maybe no problem at all... but 40 to 80? That is a bit drastic as far as changing the valve geometry. The head probably will have enough thickness in most cases but you will have to adjust everything for proper piston "bump height" (clearance to the head) and also valve clearance. At 40 to 80 thou you would most likely have to sink the valves in their seats a bit and shim the springs an equal amount. Another option might be building up the damaged section and machining back to standard thickness. Higher-end machine shops sometimes have facility for this kind of repair. I would suggest a bit of clay to set things up again as far as clearances go... Replacement Indian heads that do match originals pretty close are readily available.

dieselgman

Boss ,
     A Question Have You ever Come Across Any Indian Manufacturer Who Makes Near Perfect CS Type Head ? . BTW Anubis Can You Not arrange a head for the lister cs .should not be expensive .

Perhaps I can offer you the Lister training materials Amarbir... otherwise explanations may have to go on and on and still not resolve what you seem to be needing. I will check and see if the file sizes allow emailing... probably not. Do you have a file sharing subscription somewhere that will take 25mb or larger files? Mine is now expired. I can give you Diesel Engine Theory which is used by Lister techs. Also have video training for the newer air-cooled equipment but the same general principles apply across all models.

Your pump spill timing needs to be about 16 to 20 degrees btdc (have to refer to the charts for your engine model) - and, no, the adjustment does not alter fuel volume at all but rather changes pump timing. Your fuel rack is the only mechanism in this engine to change fuel volume and it is controlled by the governor.

I also note that you have not responded regarding some of the key questions about your engine rebuild... these are important considerations to avoid a lot of wasted efforts.

dieselgman

Sir ,

Q :  Perhaps I can offer you the Lister training materials Amarbir... otherwise explanations may have to go on and on and still not resolve what you seem to be needing. I will check and see if the file sizes allow emailing... probably not. Do you have a file sharing subscription somewhere that will take 25mb or larger files? Mine is now expired. I can give you Diesel Engine Theory which is used by Lister techs. Also have video training for the newer air-cooled equipment but the same general principles apply across all models.
A : Sir my email can take large files .Thanks for the offer  .As far as literature i have read Lister Cs Story  .Plus i am reading a Good diesel Engine book .i also have access to good documents for lister cs  .Like from Bob Ross Website  .Whats missing is the finer details of engine assembling plus tweaking

Q:Your pump spill timing needs to be about 16 to 20 degrees btdc (have to refer to the charts for your engine model) - and, no, the adjustment does not alter fuel volume at all but rather changes pump timing. Your fuel rack is the only mechanism in this engine to change fuel volume and it is controlled by the governor.
A : Whats a BTDC  ? .Thanks for The Explanation of the fuel pump .I think i will need to learn how to time this properly with your help  .

I had also left some questions unanswered earlier .Here is the details

Q : On this board we generally call what you describe as slobbering. From what you describe the oil ring is not sealing to the cylinder wall. Was the cylinder properly honed when the rings were installed? And what was the condition of the cylinder wall before the rebuild?
A : No it was not honed by a professional  .The cylinder looked ok though  .

Q : I also note that you have not responded regarding some of the key questions about your engine rebuild... these are important considerations to avoid a lot of wasted efforts.
A :Now i have

Q :To add to your question regarding ring-seal - Amarbir, what type and quality of rings did you have installed? There are a wide range of different quality ringsets sold in India and we have had our share of problems with some of them as well.
A : Last time it was iron rings

Your list of questions is a bit long... most of it is already covered in the archived topics here.

Your crankcase gears (crank pinion and camshaft) are setup at TDC - only one correct position and generally marked at the correct gear mesh. Lacking that marking, you can observe cam lobe position to get the same result.
I always find TDC on compression stroke to adjust clearance on valves and usually expect a new set of valves to stretch and bed-in a bit so start out just a bit loose to avoid them getting too tight on initial run-in.
Fuel pump timing is not a hit-and-miss proposition if done right. This is one of the most critical settings for proper performance of your engine. To do it right, you will need to establish a pointer and indexing marks on the flywheel at TDC and firing point. There is more than one way to do this but I can recommend looking at the thread with full explanation (by hotater I believe).
Using a "pop-tester" with pressure guage will allow for proper injector pressure... the guage will indicate max pressure at the point the injector nozzle actually opens (sprays). All these specs are given in the Lister charts... I believe I posted these on the micro-cogen site and they are embedded here as well.

Just from your general description, I would think that maybe your unit is pumping oil past the oil-control ring/s. Several possible likely reasons, damaged oil-control ring, less than perfect bore, excessive oil splashing under the piston... many discussions of all these conditions are on this forum.

dieselgman

Sir ,
 Reply To your Post

Q : Your list of questions is a bit long... most of it is already covered in the archived topics here.
A : Yup Could Not Understand the archive and hence posted .If We all just check archive the forum would pause  .

Q : Your crankcase gears (crank pinion and camshaft) are setup at TDC - only one correct position and generally marked at the correct gear mesh. Lacking that marking, you can observe cam lobe position to get the same result.
A : Well Pali My Mechanic Says At TDC Just Slide The Cam Rod With The Gear In and Mostly Its Done  .The Gears In my Case Were Not Marked .Can You Explain Me What You Mean Observe Can Lobe Position to Get Same Results ?

Q : I always find TDC on compression stroke to adjust clearance on valves and usually expect a new set of valves to stretch and bed-in a bit so start out just a bit loose to avoid them getting too tight on initial run-in.
A : Is TDC Not There on every Turn ? .When You Say Compression Stroke Does That Mean When Both The Valves Are Closed  .The Value Seats Are Done And Attended to By Another Person i Have  .When We Put the Rocker + Springs I do not find anything to adjust clearance .Or might be i am not able to understand  .You Said "usually expect a new set of valves to stretch and bed-in a bit so start out just a bit loose to avoid them getting too tight on initial run-in" How Does One Do This  .

Q : Fuel pump timing is not a hit-and-miss proposition if done right. This is one of the most critical settings for proper performance of your engine. To do it right, you will need to establish a pointer and indexing marks on the flywheel at TDC and firing point. There is more than one way to do this but I can recommend looking at the thread with full explanation (by hotater I believe).
A : I did mark the TDC at My Flywheel When the Head Was Out  .Can You Explain Me What More You Want Me To Do Or Point Me To The Thread Where i Could Learn Something  .

Q : Using a "pop-tester" with pressure guage will allow for proper injector pressure... the guage will indicate max pressure at the point the injector nozzle actually opens (sprays). All these specs are given in the Lister charts... I believe I posted these on the micro-cogen site and they are embedded here as well.
A : Yes i Took It to the service center cos pali had fiddled with the adjustment screw  .According To The mechanic who adjusted the pressure its around 125 to 130 .What i have no idea .Was it PSI Or Bar i think it was Bar  .Yes At this Pressure it Sprayed a Fine Mist And Look Awesome Lol 

Q : And, by the way... changing the pump timing will not necessarily change the fuel delivery volume - but will have a major effect on how that preset volume of fuel burns in the engine.
A : I Do Not Think you can change pump timing in this engine .I think we can only adjust the volume of fuel delivery to the engine Injector  .Am i Wrong In My observation

Q : In reviewing your video of the engine running... I see it has no loads attached, and no tank cooling system. Both of these conditions will make it run cold. You will need to get it up to temp - about 180F would be ideal. And you will also run best if loaded to about 75% or better of its total capacity. Once these conditions are met, then you may dig a bit deeper into diagnosing the wet-stacking it appears to be doing.
A : Sir thats a dated video .I am using it with a 6 KVA Alternator With Triple V Belt Drive .I Do not remember the RPM now As i do not have my instruments at the farm this time  .This was running My Household Power When the grid power was not there at the farm .I have never measured the Amps Being Consumed And I Am Yet To Make a Proper Panel For The Same  .Its a Totally different Project BTW And i will start that Soon  .The Water Temp Used To Rise As i used to run this setup  .The tree setup you see was my first attempt to run this engine more then a year back .So that Was Just a Test Run for The Engine Which Was Restored Years After Sitting Idle .I have a lot of photos and i will post these photos as soon as i go back to town .The Wet Stacking Was There .Upon Testing The Liquid It Was Lube Engine Oil Not Unburned Diesel .   

Sir ,
 this is a 2 Cylinder Engine .We in india do not have lister/petter engines hence i would be not able to help  .but if you teardown the same i could butt in

Guys ,
 This is regarding my second listeroid that i restored .Its a 1968 Model That My Dad had  .Please Have a Look Here

Click This Link -> http://www.indianlisteroid.com/39,0,at-my-farm.html

                    If you see the first youtube video you will see that the exhaust is draining black oil .I feel it not diesel though .It Feels Like engine oil .Please have a look at the second video also ,The same thing you will see in the second photo also .I was told by my mechanic pali that once the newly done engine is run for few hours this would go away and it happens due to cold engine also .Well the engine has done many many hours now as grid power failure is very common now in my area and we need to run this to extended period for my household load  .Today i Called Him And Told Him That this issue is still not gone  .He Did the following and it has not helped  .

1 : Advance And Retard the Fuel Pump Nut To Increase And Decrease The Fuel .
2 : Little Adjustment Of the Rockers And Tapped Rods .
3 : Adjustment of The Compresssion In the injector  " He should not have touched this as this was tuned my a injector mechanic on a pressure gauge IMHO"

                    The Issue Still Remains  .My questions Are .

1 : How Do The Time The Gears in the Crankcase ?
2 : How Do you Guys Adjust The Values And The Rockers And The Tappet Rods Etc .
3 : How Do You Set The Fuel Pump ? " Pali Says Its a Hit and Triel Method ,I am Not Convinced "
4 : How Do You Set the Presssure  " Whats The Pressure Anyway ? " In The Injector  .I Know It Has To My Fine Mist  .

PS : While Restoring the engine We did not change the Cylinder liner and the piston  .We just changed the rings  ,Connecting Rod and CR Bearnings and Pali Was Quite sure the liner is ok .Might be he was wrong and its leaking that oil from the rings .My Smoke is always visible its not clear even under normal load and no load  .Help guys i just have 24 hours more In my farm house .

I'm English, That was a sort of Lister spotting holiday.

Wow ,
 How Was Your Experience In the findings  .I am sure you only got listeroids and not lister CS original in the findings  .Also did you see some of the older listers ? .They were built like a tank  Then the once available now  .I hope i was clear and could explain you the deatils of the so called box you referred to

Etiquette may mean something different in the West... for instance, I will always respond to a sincere need voiced by any Lister owner or mechanic. Your posting comes across as a bit rude and also much too general. If you have already attempted your adjustments then you should describe what you are having trouble with - in specifics - and we can respond as we feel the inspiration to help.

Just an honest opinion...

dieselgman

Poor Me  ,
 I Only Wanted That All Seniors Could Share Some Of Thier Experiences So That Newbiews Like Me Could Learn And If Many Of You Could Post It Could Be a WOK .But Once i Am Doing The Same Myself I Will Surely Post In This Thread  .