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Messages - Chris R

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1
General Discussion / Re: Adding Citronella oil/tiki torch oil to fuel
« on: January 26, 2013, 12:54:36 PM »
Well it seems that the idea was not so good after all. Oh well!

2
General Discussion / Re: Adding Citronella oil/tiki torch oil to fuel
« on: January 22, 2013, 01:05:06 PM »
I will give it a try and report back.

3
General Discussion / Adding Citronella oil/tiki torch oil to fuel
« on: January 20, 2013, 11:18:00 PM »
I have been thinking of adding some citronella tiki torch fuel to my deisel.
I run my Lister VA several hours in the morning and evening. Right now the sand flys and sometimes mosquitos are quite bad at these times in the morning and evenings. I have dripped the oil on the exhaust pipe to see if that would do anything, but the exhaust pipe is not hot enough to make any vapours worth mentioning.
I think the tiki torch oil is probably just kerozene or some sort of mineral oil with citronella added.
Does anyone see where say a 1/2 pint per 5 gallons of TTF would caue the Lister any problems? Others have burnt all kinds of nasty stuff with no big serious problems.
If it works I would have a Lister fogging machine!
Your thoughts

Chris R

4
Generators / Re: Kill a watt meter how-to for the 6/1
« on: January 08, 2013, 01:04:05 AM »
my 2 cents.
Most homes (USA and similar, Canada, here in the Bahamas etc.) are supplied with single phase power. There maybe 3 hot high voltage (1k plus volts) power lines outside (3 phase) plus a neutral or gounding wire and a transformer near the home to step the voltage down for home use  or these lines might be single phase low voltage 120 plus 120 plus a neutral/ground (3 wires) have have been stepped down with a transformer somewhere else, near by. One block might be using one of the phases another block the second phase and another block the third phase. It would be very uncommon to have 3 phase is a normal home.
 McMansions excluded.

5
Generators / Re: Kill a watt meter how-to for the 6/1
« on: January 06, 2013, 01:56:58 PM »
Thanks for the postings.
I have a similar transformer  (3 kva) that I am using to step down 240v to120v. I have good voltage conversion with low power draw on the 120v side but as the 120v power draw rises my 120v drops to about 106 to 108v. The 240v side holds up pretty  good.
Using the ebay transformer wiring diagram for example, this is how I wired it up.
H1 and H4 240v from double 15 amp breaker  that is from the generator (input) main panel
H1 and H2/3 output 120volts to outback inverter (120 volt) then on to 120volt only sub panel (output)

Does anyone know how to boost the 120volt side? as the power load rises?

Thanks.

6
Generators / Re: Kill a watt meter how-to for the 6/1
« on: January 05, 2013, 01:37:37 PM »
More info on the bulk/boost transformer please.

7
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: Lister Type Parts - The Bahamas
« on: December 22, 2012, 01:48:06 PM »
The above repllies are better than I could come up with.

8
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: Lister Type Parts - The Bahamas
« on: December 20, 2012, 12:14:15 AM »
Rock,
welcome.
Rom and I are both in Abaco. He just saved me with an Siddley generator ends.
I have a story below and that unit was a Hawker Siddley Genset with a Marathon rear end. ST1 or SR1 engine?
but a few things to check
2. When it stopped working did you have the burnt wire smell?
3. Does the unit have a AVR or just some big ole resisters in the control box area or under one of the covers on the generator, probably at the back end?
4. Does the unit have brushes?
5. Have you found a set of diodes somewhere?
6. What brand rear end?

Some of these questions will help in try to figure out where to look for fixes.

I just finished puting back together a st? 1 with a Marthon 4.75KW end for a friend of mine. Generator and engine shipped up to Abaco from Nassau in two pieces.
Reassembled. Egine started right up--- no power.
After checking this that and the other I found that the stator exciter windings had a break some where. No signs of damage or burning. Probably our fresh salt air.
I had no luck with Lima Marathon in locating a replacement. I talked with someone in Jacksonvile Fla (Their agent that is supposed to cover the Bahamas) who said that he had received a request from Marathon to contact me, but was trying to find out what the part number was and was not having much luck.
My unit was made in 1985 or there abouts and Marathon had no listed part number. Send my Stator Exciter to Jaxsonville Fla had he thought he could match it up with something. He had two stator exciter and felt that one  would work.
Oh! by the way, I asked what are the prices of the stator exciter he was thinking of?
one $1500 and the other $1800   $%$#$ I thought. My buddy paid $2,000 for what he was told was a working unit!!!!
Generator repair guys here in Abaco said dump the gen end and buy a new one, not worth fixing.
The long and the short is that I sent the stator exciter to Bond electric in Nassau, they rewond it for $250.00 plus $10 shipping $5.00 a box each way.
Sometime solutions are just around the corner, so to speak.
The rewind should have been easy. Getting the S/E out is a long story F$&!@&G  story.

Installed it and the gen works great.

Your problems may be simple or not too expensive to fix, but labour can be high if you have to hire someone.
Good luck. l\Look forward to hearing from you.
Regards
 

9
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: 6/1 cast iron valve cover
« on: December 15, 2012, 01:22:14 PM »
Never seen a cast iron one. Cast or stamped aluminium, yes.

10
Listeroid Engines / Re: What the heck?
« on: October 10, 2012, 12:53:36 AM »
0.08

11
Engines / Re: how to make my lister cs 3.5 electric start
« on: September 29, 2012, 11:22:37 AM »
I was able to make my Lister VA electric start by bolting a water pump pully to the generator pully then using a golf cart starter/generator. The starter/generator is only being used as a starter and I charge the battery with a trickel charger.
Good luck. I am off grid as well.

12
Again Bob Thanks. My motto is if it aint broke don't fix it. So I was not planning on doing anything until I know more on PF.
Dieselgman. The Lima Mac is now configured for 120 volt only The VA HP is 7.5 HP/850 RPM (aircooled 8/1) and was originally speced at 4.25 KW with the original Genhead VS 4.5KW for the 8/1 . It was the Fat boy unit now dead and being used as a mooring in the Sea of Abaco, Bahamas.

13
Thanks guys. Will order the rodger's book
Bob Thanks for confirming what I thought, PF of 0.8 would be better.
So with my Lima Mac with PF of 1.0 do I add some capacators?  Or just leave things alone? The lima Mac is bulit like a brick shit house. Big heavy (With aluminium frame) and does not get very hot.
BTW what is the PF on most of the ST units people are using?
Regards

14
Engines / Re: Lister LR 1 Starting problem part 3
« on: September 18, 2012, 02:14:53 AM »
Well done.

15
Let's see if we can put some new life into this post. It's an old post but a good one.
I had some questions about power factor and did a search and came up with these postings. After reading them I have even more questions.

My only question right now and to keep it as simple as possible is this:
My Lister VA has a Lima Mac internally regulated genhead that I think is 5KW with a power factor of 1.
I am just putting into service an ST1 (about 8 hp)  with a Lima/Marathon AVR unit I don't know the KW rating on the gen but I think it is 6kw. It has a power factor of 0.8
I am in the process of rebuilding my Lister LPW3 with a Stamford genhead of about 13 KW with a power factor of 0.8

House loads are outback inverter with the gen in load set at 20amps (I think)
Compact floresent light bulbs. Washer, gas dryer, sunfrost refridgerator, 1/4 pressure pump. 12,000 BTU mini split A/C. The lister VA will handle the loads without too much problems. Just don't go hodwild.
So I do not have many resistive loads. I don't know if the inverter is resistive or an inductive load.

So my question is, If I had a choice, am I better of with a genhead with a PF of 1.0 or 0.8?
My gut say with a PF of 0.8???
Any takers

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