Lister Engine Forum
How to / DIY => Engines => Topic started by: Bfinney87 on April 24, 2022, 12:32:17 AM
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Im trying to install new guts into a faulty fuel pump and I’m wondering when installing the sleeve into the bore of the pump is there a certain way to install it? I have taken it apart multiple times and I’m still having no luck getting it to work. There is a letter T on top of the fuel pump housing does that mean anything in the rebuild process? There isn’t any information I could find on the internet for these pumps. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Mate, if you did not take a shit load of pics before and as you stripped it down then your in trouble. Best go looking for a manual to get out of the shit.
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I have a manual for the motor. But there isn’t a manual for the fuel pump itself. The manual says refer to bryce pumps 158 but I can’t find anything on it.
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If someone has a diagram Of a Bryce pump that would be awesome and a lot of help
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here is an exploded diagram don't know if its anything like yours
https://injectionpumps.co.uk/interactive/interactive-bryce-faoab-parts-diagram.htm
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Hopefully that is thesame or similar o the one required by the OP. When I did a Boschpump there were a few ways that the shaft will fit in and only one way is correct and from memory it has a bit to do with a centre pop mark on mine. Not sure about the Bryce pump.
I would do a search on YouTube listing assembling a Bryce injector pump model ?????
Or a manual for that model pump. It took me a few hours of trial and error before I woked out how mine worked. So I learnt then to take a heap of pics of everything I take apart, step by step. Good luck with it and let us know how you get on.
P.S. When you do assemble and test it you will only get a small dribble of fuel come out, not some long squirt of fuel.
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Thankyou!! for the help guys that’s exactly what I was looking for. I will search YouTube as well!
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Well I got the number 1 cylinder pump working. Then number 2 injection pump quick working. Ended up taking it apart as well. And the gear inside was sheared at the ears. Not sure what happened there. But I ordered another rebuild kit and a gear. What was weird is that it was working a few days ago.
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Engines are made to test us to the max. Glad you got it sorted, well sort of. Won't be long before you will hear it making a noise.
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I'd have to dig through old pics, sounds like you're sorted now anyhow.
But the fuel rack and the angled slidey bizzo have to go in the right way.
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Lol I’m having a helluva time with that dang motor. Finally got the parts I needed to finish the other fuel pump rebuild and was putting it together and the snap ring that holds the piston at the bottom of the pump flew out and I can’t find it. Lol spent 3 hrs looking for it. So gonna order a couple of them. Parts take forever to get here too.
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You should be able to buy snap rings at the local bearing shop. Once back together, bleed the fuel all the wy back through the fuel system from tank, filter, pumps to the injector. By doing this you eliminate having to crank the engine over for ages before being able to start up. I like to use my decompresion lever to hand crank it over to get a bit of momentum then drop the lever and away it goes.
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Okay sounds good I will. I have the pump loaded up gonna take it to a bearing store this week.
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Well I got the other fuel pump working. It’s not popping from the injector it spraying. Wanted to test it out. But now I’m not able to hand crank it cause of the compression. I think the rings might have seated. When I push all the compression levels down I can turn it but I have no compression.
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Is that normal for that high of compression you can’t even crank it with a handle.
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There is no way you can crank it without operating the decompressors. To test get a spare injector pipe and bend it so it points away from the fuel door then you can check the injector atomisation on any Lister motor.
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When cranking without using the decomp lever you do need to be serious about wanting to crank it over. Don't play with it mean to turn it over. Diesels rely on high compression to ignite the fuel air mix. If it was too easy to turn over compression it may not start. There is no shame when cranking to use the decomp levers when the weather or engine is cold or hot. It is just easier on you to start it up. Electric starts can do it without the use of a decomp lever when everything is in good working condition ie good battery and starter motor.
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Okay thanks guys I’m gonna mess around with it again this evening
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I can't crank past compression on my 6/1
I have to decompress, get up to speed and then engage fuel and then full compression, usually fires on the first compression.
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It sure is as it is compression that heat the fuel air mix to ignite the diesel.