Lister Engine Forum
How to / DIY => Engines => Topic started by: Timbre_Surfer on May 24, 2020, 04:19:06 AM
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Hi
Newby here so please excuse my ignorance. I hope this is in the correct forum.
I have inherited this from my grandfather, and I would like to get it up and running.
Can you assist in pointing me in the right direction for identification and a manual so that I can go about the correct way in operating and cleaning this beast up.
Thanks in advance.
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You have a Lister LD2, often used in marine application. From the flywheel end your engine is clockwise rotation.
Crank handle operates from camshaft extension - counterclockwise.
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Many thanks Snowman.
Any tips for getting it running, what to change etc before first crank?
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Firstly, welcome to the Forum.
Things that I suggest be done before trying to start it up is to change the engine oil, even a bit of a flush out would help. Once new oil is ready to go in also fit a new filter to the oil,fuel and air filters. Next drain evey bit of fuel out of the system. Ensure that the fuel tank is thoroughly clean and rust free inside. Then once the fuel lines are drained fit your new fuel filter and start bleeding fresh fuel through. Bleeding the air out at the filter housing then at the fuel pump and finally at the injector. I also suggest that the injectors get pulled out and ince you have a fuel supply at the joint to the injector connect the fuel line and crank the engine over and watch for the fuel atomising spray. At this stage DO NOT put your skin near the spray, this can pentrate the skin and make you very ill.
Once you have both injectors spraying fuel then put them back and then try a start up. Try Google for a workshop manual, That is how I found a manual for my engine but it is different to yours. Your engine may have a cold start button or position with a lever to aid the start. I always use full throttle on a cold start but knock it back to idle as soon as it fires up. This ensures maximum fuel at start up. Once warm you can start up on idle and no cold start setting. If the engine has not been run for a long time I also suggest that when the injectors are out put a small amount of engine oil down the bore to lubricate the bore and at the same time will increase the compression again to aid a start up. Once running don't run it hard let it run just above idle and vary the revs from time to time to allow the rings to free up if they have stuck. If possible put the engine under a light load and be gentle with it for a while until you feel it is back to good running condition. Good luck with your project and hope that you can do something with it.
I just had a better look and with that style of pulley set up I dare say it was being used as a genset, belt driven. Also use your decompression levers on the rocker covers when it is time to start up. With my twin I have the levers joined together so both cylinders are either decompressed or ready to run. It starts well on the crank handle for me too, around 3 swings on the crank to get momentum on the flywheel and away it goes.
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Thanks cobbadog,
Along with the pulleys came two sets of water pump housings, all in a common 2" sizing, which is handy.
That first crank procedure is great. I did find a manual online that I've downloaded.
Thanks,
Any info is great and very much appreciated.
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It sounds as if it now can be a fire fighting pump or for moving water from the dam to a tank, so many handy uses. Have a good read of your manual taking notice of the servicing section if there and then the correct start up proceedure then you will be making noise and enjoying your new toy.
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So, had a fun couple of days with the engine.
Pulled panels off after draining the oil so I could inspect components, which apart from a small amount of rust looked fantastic, then checked fuel tank.
Fuel tank was bone dry, surface rust throughout the tank. Removed that and cleaned fuel lines. There was no element in the fuel filter. Jerry rigged a temporary fuel tank and managed to get diesel through to the fuel pumps. Oil gallery lines were clear and oil was being pumped well after the sump was refilled.
Compression was excellent.
Could not get it to fire. Added oil to the cold start, increased compression, but still no bang. Added a touch of diesel into the cold start before following it with oil and got it going, then it stopped. Repeated this one more time to prove the theory.
Now am investigating why no fuel to cylinder.
Either fuel pumps or injectors. Cannot force compressed air through either.
Any advice on where to go from here would be appreciated.
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1st step - With the injector line disconnected, crank the engine around. You should see fuel spurting from the end of the injector line. If not - there's either air in them, or you need to look at the injection pump. If you see a decent gob of fuel every firing stroke, move on to step 2.
Step 2: With the injector removed from the engine, re-connect it to the fuel lines. Crank engine over (keep your hands well away from the injection end - if it's working, it can actually inject diesel fuel through skin - nasty!). You should see a nice fine mist of fuel. If you see fuel but it's not well atomised, your injectors need servicing/replacing. If no fuel comes out, then either the injector is jammed, or the pump is too weak.
If your pump isn't pumping, it may be seized, or it may be worn. I don't know if you can easily see the IP (Injection Pump) operating on the LD engines, I suspect not... so you may need to pull it to have a look. If it's seized, then the pump won't be returning when the cam has passed the follower. If it's worn, then the follower will be down, but the fuel is going down the sides of the piston instead of up the pipe. Pumps can be repaired, but they're extremely fine tolerance devices, so it might be easier/cheaper to get a 2nd hand one.
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The sliding bar that co-joins the fuel injector pumps operates the fuel rack, are you able to move it back and forth and what position is it at while trying to start the engine.
With the fuel rack all the way to the left, no fuel will make it to the injectors.
Compressed air is not high enough pressure to left the injector needle, google pop tester then watch one of the many youtube videos available.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HWN2mtCR/rack.jpg)
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I was about to suggest that maybe the rack is stuck in the off position. So once we know it does move freely then we can help and suggest more ideas.
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That would make sense. I could not move that at all and wasn't sure what that exactly did to be honest, that is what tomorrow job was going to be, but now I can target what needs to occur.
Thanks so much for your help. This community is fantastic.
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Hmph. I totally forgot about the fuel rack!
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Hmmm, old age is a bugger, isn't it ;D. Don't feel bad, I often go the shops and when I get there, can't remember what i needed.
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Remove the cotter pins from each clevis, then move each rack, if one or both fuel pumps are seized it will show up immediately. It's my guess the problem is circled in red.
Remove cotter and clevis nearest the red circle, I think the rack is going to move once disconnected.
(https://i.postimg.cc/j2gYXRvg/rack.jpg)
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Hi, and thanks in advance.
Just to clear things up in my mind.
The yellow arrow points to the start run stop button, of which I could only get it to the start and run position, not the stop.
I could get fuel to flow freely out of the bleed (?) Bolt above the fuel rail (green arrow).
I could not get the rack to move left or right (blue arrow).
So would that be seized in the fuel pumps or further to the left, and should I be able to get the run switch to all 3 positions?
On a separate note, is that small account of surface rust anything to be worried about. It hasn't scaled or pitted the surfaces.
Cheers
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Hi timbre
Adding some help, if wellcome.
1 - remove fuel line, and clean it, Î mean clean it!
2 - disengage pump rack, I mean remove cotter pins, and remove clevis!
3 - remove delivery valves nut.
4 - remove IP clamp.
5 - clean each pump (realy) pay attention to all smal pieces, and their position.
6 - install IP, with clamps;
7 - install rack assembler.
8 - prime system.....
Br
VP
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Hi mate, the part encircled in red is the fuel line NOT the throttle linkage. The throttle linkage is directly below the fuel line. Disconnect that and then check the movement of the racks. If still no movement disconnect each rack so they are independent to find out which one is ceased or maybe both. It is also worth while checking the movement of the throttle linkage as that could be your only problem. Like so many things it is a slow process of elimination but you will win, just be patient.
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Thanks all, sorry for the lack of correspondence.
As like everywhere in the world right now, it's been crazy and I haven't touched the Lister for ages.
Hopefully I'll get round to it in the next month...
Keep safe