Lister Engine Forum
Slow Speed Diesel Engines => Other Slow Speed Diesels => Topic started by: cobbadog on April 29, 2020, 07:45:29 AM
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I am about halfway into the rebuild of this McDonald 2.5HP crude oil / diesel engine. It left the factory in Victoria on 18th May 1945 so it is coming up for its 75 birthday soon. It was donated to me, well a pair of them were, in the hope that one day I would bite the bullet and get one running, that time has come. It uses a Hyvid / Brons fuel injection system which is a tricky bugger on a good day and of which I know next to nothing about as yet. It took close to 4 days of hard yakka to get the flywheels off as the Gib key heads broke off easily and then it was a case of welding a bolt to it and a slide hammer and the other had to be drilled out and then collapsed. So far I have been at this for around a month and a half found the reason for it being pushed into a corner as the roller for the cam seized up and then wore that cam down and that stopped opening the valves enough to make power. I have had the engine for a minimum of 5 -6 years looking for the damaged or missing parts and the biggest issue was the broken injector which I managed to find one.
Other missing parts but promising just recently are an oil primer for pushing oil down through the water hopper to the piston, rings and gudgeon pin. A cap for the crank case lid which I think I can make and a fuel tank again will make. I've ordered a new set of rings, 6 in total for this engine and have been making new gaskets including the head gasket as well.
I will post a couple of pics of this monster, small in size but bloody heavy when assembles as the 2 engines in the box trailer rated at 750kg flattened the springs.
These pics show both engines waiting to be looked at,drilling the Gib key and finally getting one out and the absolute mess inside the gears.
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Finally today is the unique piston, conrod and big end bearing set up. As you can see you can adjust the compression ration by adding or subtracting the shims. Then a pic of the worn cam gear.
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If it really will run on crude oil, I believe the big oil co's can't give it away at the moment!
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Well done Cobba, thanks for starting this thread. I shall be following with interest.
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Thanks for the feed back guys. Everything on this engine is heavy and when you go to pick something up you have to be certain that you have a good hold of it. Even the side cover over the gears is solid cast steel and not cast iron so it is that but extra in weight. So far the only light parts are the ones I don't have. All the oil pressure lines were brass tubing as well as the oil primer line but that and one of the high pressure oil lines (all of 7 psi) are now 5/16" copper tube.
Made the ehad gasket today as well. The gasket is a simple ring shaped gasket 1mm thick and fits into a recess in the head and then the top of the bore fits into the recess to seal it off along with 5 "O" rings around the new cooling tubes I fitted into place at the top of the bore. When I can I will put up random pics of the nightmare I started with but we are now slowly getting an understanding that I don't like coming second and this engine will run once again.
My absolute biggest test is yet to come, all of the linkages for the head and injector.
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Back at the beginning of doing this job I first had to get the engine of choice around to where I was going to work on it. So I winched it onto the carry all of the David Brown 30C Cropmaster, in the background is Lorry our main transport when going to Rallies with our caravan towed behind it. Then there is the good injector that will need stripping and cleaning. The flat belt pulley came off like a dream even though the 3 bolts were badly rusted away and each a different size socket was required to undo them.
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This is the oil pick up from the bottom of the sump. The original screen was almost non existent so I found some stainless steel 'termi-mesh' used for pest control on houses and soldered it in place. It looks rough but it wont let go.
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Thanks Glort, I put around a total of 2 years into the D.B and last run was about 6 months of being in a rush. Even this engine when loaded is a counterweight for the steering. When we go to a Rally I usually put the carry all onto which ever tractor is going and an engine on that and a couple of mowers around the truck tray.
I had no choice but to finally replace all the timber on the deck of the carry all as the original had rotted completely. It is 25mm thick hardwood. If I build another one I would use the usual T piece set up for the 3pl pins and use channel iron and some checker plate.
I have done a trial on the engine oil I use in Lorry which is what I will run in this and the oil runs straight through as fast as I can pour it and ambient temps so I dont expect any issues there. Engine also runs at a huge 7psi oil pressure as it only pumps oil to both crank shaft babbit bushes. All other parts are splash fed like the big end and the bottom of the bore and gudgeon pin once running. The gears that drive the oil pump, cam and governor are fed oil by picking it up using the gears and it winds its way up to the top then drips over the roller that follows the cam and operates the push rod to the valve.
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This is one of the offending gibb keys. Welded a bolt to the gibb key with the head cut off so to use the thread with a nut, then tried using the slide hammer with little result so next was a piece of pipe and try to tighten the nut up. All the time using this oversized "C" burner for the LPG. After the key was out the 3 leg puller was loaded up to pull the flywheel off.
The second pic is of the gibb key that broke off flush with the flywheel and then required many holes to be drilled through the key to remove as much metal as possible. I actually got a 3/16" hole down the centre and almost full depth when it snapped off. Next was to circle that using 1/8" bit and got four holes and again one snapped off. I kept stepping the small holes up in size until it was either touch the flywheel or the crank shaft then used a home made slotting chisel to dig out the key.
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Good one for your perseverence in getting that wheel off. I would have lost my patience after it broke off like that and taken an 8 lb hammer to the thing
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lol, that was just one side, the other one was just as bad but with it's own unique problems. I was about to give up on the first one as my back was hurting after being bent over the mongrel for about an hour straight pulling back on the big new slide hammer I bought especially for this job. I thought one more pull and I felt something let go and it did, The gibb key started to come out.
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I did like the flame that came out the bottom but when I turned it arse up and really got into it with the heat it went off like a flame thrower. By the time I got the camera out it had backed off to being this sedate little display. Once it had burnt out I continued to get serious with the heat and then I found the lump of crap that fell out. Once cooled I sat it on top to take the pic.
The pic at the bottom is the tool I made up to grab hold of the needle that is stuck inside the body. I have been soaking it for a few days in thinners to try to soften the crap up inside but so far no joy.
This injector has a second stage to it that is off at the moment to give me access to this section. The cap is hel on with a screw that is rock solid and the impact driver is not looking at it so far, just twisting the slot only.
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This is the tool, not me for posting the wrong pic.
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I wonder - since the wheels are cast & the crank is heavy - what would happen if you tried to gas-out a snapped-off gib key? Apart from it shooting molten crap out at you every time you gave it a puff of oxygen?
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G'Day Mike, thanks for your interest and question but I have long passed that point and becasue I have been so slack in posting here the story is a light year behind. I have the engine totally stripped down with only the injector to sort out and spare parts to arrive.
In answer to your question I am not sure as I never did buy my plasma cutter and have no oxy set up either. Best guess is that this being cast steel it would blow part of the crankshaft away and possibly part of the flywheel.
The removal of the flywheels took around a total of days worth of hard slog but I won. You can see the sludge that was inside the engine by looking in the side cover and this was nothing compared to what was in the sump.
Rings are being made in N.Z. and will be made and sent as soon as they go back to work. Oil primer pump has been found and will be sent by the end of this month. Cam gear will be ready to pick up very soon as you will see the wear on the lobe in the pic below.
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Cool. Good progress. I wonder if it's the same folks who made an oversized ring for me after a "whoops" at the machinists lol
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Hi Mike I found a bloke 2 hours south of me that has a wide selection of rings and valves and soon is expanding into piston repairs, interesting.
So at least my rings are being made and along with a huge order of other rings they will then be sent to Oz and then mine will arrive soon after that.
To day I decided while waiting for the electrolysis to hopefully work on the injectors bottom needle I started to make a new pin for the rocker arm to pivot on and add a better oil hole for lube by cutting a groove in the shaft and boring an oil hole halfway down the pin and then cross drilling it. I also reground the end of the rocker arm where it meets the valve stem. Next is the pivoting ball, this will explain itself in the future pics but I may need to make another push rod from the cam follower through the pivot ball to the rocker arm. You will notice the old brazing repair from long ago but this one is better than the other one I have to choose from so this is it.
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Played around with the linkages today cleaning up the parts and making a special collar to hold the fork from another linkage that operates the injector. I think it is all ready to go together when more parts arrive and try to work out how to adjust it all. Fortunately if I get stuck I now have a good contact who has one of these in running order so I can annoy him with all the questions.
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While still waiting on the electrolysis to do its thing I played around with some ideas or experiments, why not I say!
First was to see what happens when you use a MIG welder on cast steel, well it looks as if it welds. I will give it a flogging soon to see what it takes to fracture. Some of the valve stems were badly worn on the ends so again what happens when you weld these up with a MIG.
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interesting re MIG and cast steel. I will watch with interest. Cheers
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Many others have been down this track using a MIG on cast steel not iron as there is a difference. Most say it is no problems but still work with some pre heat and a slow cool and do short runs.
So as I am waiting for parts and my head keeps jumping from one job to another this was play time for today. Straight from the "why not" department and it will come in handy later on for the air cleaner that I have to make. Never tried doing this before and for a first attempt it is ok so this will be it, rough n ready. Tried a few ways to get the little punch to work and in the end I simply cut the sheet metal with the 1mm cutting disc then introduced the punch while holding the sheet metal in place with some flat bar iron and clamps.
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Wow!
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To continue with the "have a go ya mug" attitude and after being inspired by Ian Rowsal of Custom Garage I decide to have a go at this today. Found a couple of pieces of timber and cut the shape out then made a sheet metal sandwich and used a hammer to dress the edge over to make the lid. It surprised me that it worked so this is my new lid and tomorrow I will attach it to the louvre sided section I made the other day.
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Rough enough is good enough for this old engine. I made the centre mounting shaft then soldered the top onto the cylinder and this is how it ended up.
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So, please excuse my ignorance, but what is that? A air filter housing?
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Yes that is exactly what it will be. I'm not planning in putting any filter inside at the moment but if I have to I will use some stainless steel scourers inside and put some mesh over the hole in the middle. It is similar to an original style filter with the louvres but initially I was just playing around while waiting for parts and this is the end result.
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Brilliant. I would never even thought about making such a thing, and you make it look easy. Great work.
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Thsnk you for your kind words. The style is similar to the original but another Aussie pointed out that originally the louvres faced inwards not out. I can live with that and I don't mind being different.
I watch a show on TV named Full Custom Garage and usa show and IAn Rowsall who builds up cars and trucks and buggies did a similar thing to make a fuel tank. This is waht inspired me to have ago as he too made it look simple. To be honest it is a simple thing to do all you need is a couple of pieces of timber cut to shape and clamped together, then the right gauge sheet metal to dress over the edge.
The same can be said about the louvres although Ian went to a shop that had the right machine to do the job but I thought why not try to see if I can doo something similar. Believe me my first attempt was a failure, it did not cut the straight edge and just folded the test piece in half. So I cheated and made the cut using my angle grinder with the 1mm thick cut off disc in it. The rest is as you see it. Mind you again it was clamped for each time I went to make the louvre.
I am now considering making the fuel tank only a bit larger using the same proceedure. It will need to hold around 3 litres of fuel which should be enough for a full days work under load which will mean a full weekend of fun at a Rally when it all comes back on line. Still waiting for some critical parts to arrive, a ring set of 5 compression rings and one oil ring. A pair of new valve blanks so we can make them fit, the cam gear repair being carried out by a welder and the oil primer cup for the pre start up. Once these things are in place it should not take long to put it back together again.
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Cleaned up the outside of a paint thinners tin to use as the fuel tank. I think it is about 1 litre bigger than standard so it is a long range fuel cell now. I have strengthened the bottom where the tap will go in and made up the mounting brackets to the hopper.
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Hi Glort,
This system is a gravity system and has no pumps at all, it is so weird that I haven't completely worked it out yet. Yes I will need to drill a small hole in the lid before I paint it silver in colour.
Clarendon Classic 2020 was cancelled about a fortnight back as has the Rusty Iron Rally and the Cranky Handle Rally and The Yesteryear Truck Show, so many others that it looks as if the next rally wont be on until next year.
As for paying a visit that would be nice but we are head down tail up with work so we can hook the van up to head off in the beginning of July.
Was it a brand new MIG or a new replacement 2nd hand? I bought mine new off fleabay and have been so happy with it and any and all bad results are due to operator error. Slowly I am working that part out.
Could we please defer the visit until a bit later please, but it would be good to catch up.
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Sounds like a good deal on the MIG. Like you say it gives him pleasure that he knows he has it there when he needs it and I too am like that. I have been looking at a plasma cutter but not in a hurry but one day. Are you running gas or gasless on the MIG? I started gasless but I was not doing so well then using the Bunnings gas I bought a gauge and tried it and away I went. I still have the gasless wire and now I have a better understanding on how to use it I may try gasless again. I also know about swapping the polarity around between gas and gasless and I think it was operator error not machine or gas or not that was the issue.
As for catching up we should have settled a bit by end of August early September now that the rallies are done. We still have a few more van trips to do after this one in July as we need to go back to Canberra and this has to be timed with the running of the large steam beam engine at Golburn and we have to cross the border into enemy territory once Anna opens the border to see the little wog great grand son. SO, yes we will catch up just not sure when but soon I hope.
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Cam gear is home and I started to linish it to shape.
I can't believe the trouble I had posting this here but is good it made it on.
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The next bit of dribble for today after work gave me just enough time to linish the cam profile but I found a couple of spots that need to be built up higher. The guy who welded this must have known as he mentioned that if I needed any part built up just bring it back, so it will go back to him next week.
Then I fitted both Speedi-Sleeves to the crankshaft. This took all of 5 minutes. I picked up a piece of exhaust pipe that was the correct ID to fit over the sleeve and a couple of light taps to get both sleeves into the correct position.
Not much play time today but at least something got done.
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Well I went back to the job of removing the fuel cup from the injector body. Had no luck with electrolysis only that it is super clean on the outside. So there was no way that the small grub screw would undo even using an impact socket with the screw driver bit in it so I drilled it out of the way. After reading about so many different ways to achieve what I am trying to do today I went down the road of heating and quenching. Using what Dad used to cal a size C lpg burner I started to gently heat the cup and then quench it in water. I did this a couple of times and the last time I gave it full throttle and got the cup to the dullest of cherry red and then quenched it again. Then I left it sitting in water until next time where I will once again look closer at how much I have drilled out and if any more needs to be removed then will go back to the serious heating again. All the time I have been very gently tapping the cup to see if it shows any signs of moving. This tapping is dangerous as this is how the other cup was broken off the injector body, not because of tapping it directly but by using a lever to lift the body out of the head and the slightest movement sideways breaks the cup off. In the instruction book this is made very clear and that when you remove a stubborn injector it is a case of removing the head and prising the cup up.
So this is my SpacEx clean burn launch today.
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Well I stripped the oil primer and had to remove the plunger from the brass tube, clean it all up and as suggested I simply reversed the plunger so that it was back to original specifications and not with all the wear on it. I tinned the end of the brass tube and sweated it back in place without having to remove the outter casing by heating it up through the bottom where the check valve should have been. I welded the plunger back into the cap then made a new gasket to fit between the body and hopper. My brass tube was still there so I made it to the new length as it was a bit too long, tinned it and again heated the brass tube and soldered it back into the body. Some silicone and then bolted it back into place.
I did a test on the bench by putting some oil in the case with the plunger installed and sitting down. No oil came out. I started lifting the cap up and down and it started pumping oil out so it is a win. It is amazing how much oil it displaces each pump.
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With weeks of part time work done on the Hyvid/Brons fuel injector I have finally got it all the way apart and cleaned up. I have used some valve grinding paste both coarse and fine to re-seat the bottom needle to help stop compression blow back and all I need now is 2 new copper gaskets and a new spring for the needle then it can be assembled ready for action. I am making new valve guides for the head, am looking at 2 new valves also and the new set of piston rings are somewhere between N.Z. and here.
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Finally got the injector back together today so will post pics of it assembled later but here are the last of the parts made up to do the job. There is a new spring on the needle, a roughly made grub screw to hold the cup in place and a new copper crush washer that I annealed even more to ensure a good seal when installed.
The grey length of cast iron is for making new valve guides for the head and I have some new valves apparently available but cannot confirm until next week.
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Things are on the move again with the Mac. Injector is now been apart and sorted out all its issues but the good news is I now have an oil primer. It too was stuck solid but now it is freed up and working as new. For such a very simple design it really pumps the oil through to the piston and gudgeon pin via a brass tube through the water hopper.
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Next was a fuel tank. I was going to use a simple old paint thinners can and strengthen it for the fuel tap and mount that. Then I was reminded about these engines and blow back. They can have a habit of blowing compression back up through the injector and into the fuel tank. So with plan B now in action I built a very solid fuel tank using 6" exhaust pipe as the body of the tank then some slightly heavier base and top sections and then tack welded a piece of flat bar iron around the lid so that it fitted snugly over the body. I now only have to drill and tap the hole for the fuel tap to fit into and that will be done when the head is back on the engine and the extended hopper fitted. Tank is fitted as per original and is a short gravity feed into the injector. To shut one of these engines down you shut the fuel and just as it is about to die then decompress the engine.
Lastly is a picture of the cam gear where the lobe was built up and linished back to size. Nearly all the way around had to be built up and hopefully I have the correct profile. Something I have done is to start making a list of possible "stuff ups" that could be a cause for it not to run.
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Next was a fuel tank. I was going to use a simple old paint thinners can and strengthen it for the fuel tap and mount that. Then I was reminded about these engines and blow back. They can have a habit of blowing compression back up through the injector and into the fuel tank. ..............
I would think compression/ignition blowing back thru the injector and fuel pump, would be a failure of the injector, and if it happened, would destroy the fuel pump. At the least, a flimsy fuel tank would rupture, a sturdy tank will cause a line to blow.
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You will only get blowback if the needle and seat are leaky or the injector adjustment is incorrect.
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YEs that is right but it can happen so I built this bomb proof model
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Hi Mike,
As oldgoat mentioned the cause of the blow back is a poorly seating needle. Fuel is gravity fed to the Hyvid Brons injector and pressure is a very simple plunger inside that has a spring inside to help seal the needle. If blow back happens it all ends up back at the tank which for my tank the worse that can happen is the lid will lift off.
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Today I got some play time and found an issue. Again I wiped out the bore and sprayed some Lanox inside and fitted the piston with no rings. I have a cylinder that is narrow in the middle of the stroke. Fromt between 45mm down from the top to 125mm down the piston sticks. But, if I rotate the piston 90' it does not. This may indicate an oval piston so I now have the piston in the chuck of the lathe and checking it with the dial indicator to see what is at fault.
I think that all that rust around the cylinder has swollen up and distorted the bore.
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Not this one, fairly certain it is the bore that is distorted.
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Going to be attacking the bore with a large hone soon and today the head came back with the new valve guides fitted and reamed, new stainless steel valves machined to suit and the seats re-made so at least this is ready to be fitted after the bore and piston are in.
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Here is the head ready to fit some springs but I have to drill the valve stems to fit a pin to hold the cups in place that hold the springs under tension. I do not have the original horseshoe clips so a couple of pins will work well.
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At last I got back to this project this afternoon. I have borrow a large honer and it certainly has cleaned up the rusty surface very well but after a fairly long time I still cannot get the piston with no rings to slide up the bore. The top goes in with no problems but the further I slide it the tighter it gets and will only slide in as far as the bottom of the piston skirt.
This got me thinking, yep hard to believe, that maybe the piston is out of shape and not the bore as I was thinking. I had the piston off the conrod and put it in the lathe and using a dial indicator got some out of round numbers on the OD of the piston but from top to bottom it changed a lot and was messing me up.
So I engaged the grey matter again and used my digit calipers to measure the OD as far as it could reach over the skirt measuring from the side. and did this at 3 different points, top, middle and bottom.
Not sure if my calipers reached over the complete OD of the piston but with the calipers pushed all the way on then closed the gap and locked the calipers it gave the following readings.
Top - 87.77mm
Middle - 88.21mm
Bottom - 88.40mm
This meant that the piston got wider the further down I measured it and by a total of 0.63mm and this to me would indicate that the piston and not the bore is at fault.
Happy to hear any and all comments on this tricky bastard.
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Y’know, if the piston is most of a mm different in diameter from place to place - it seems to me that if you held a straight-edge along it in various places there would be enough for the straight-edge to “rock” visibly? Cheers
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Cheers Mike, the taper is on the piston itself and not the bore. I have no way of measuring the bore but was told to use a length of stiff fencing wire cut to size and use it as a gauge. Tomorrow I will know ,ore, I hope.
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Back to the Mac and trying to sort what exactly is out of round. The piston is 0.009" out of round for certain and after putting on some "blue" and fitting the piston into the bore to see what part rubbed it hits the bore both top and bottom.
You can see on the skirt of the piston where the 'blue' is untouched and where it is rubbed smooth. What clearance should there be between the bore and piston on a 3.500" bore?
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And the winner is.....cobbadog! I got the bastard!
There was definitely 2 different issues, the bore for what ever reason was undersized at the bottom end and believe or not there was a bump on the piston skirt. So with a long time honing, washing it out and then checking it was time to go to the lathe.
As suggested I set it up using the dial indicator and this time with the piston top in the chuck and at that point it ran true. As I went down the skirt things were good but then I rotated the chuck and presto a lump on the skirt. So no amount of honing would fix this issue and would make the bore completely the wrong size if I didn't machine the piston. So yes something must have been dropped onto it and caused this problem. Now I have the same clearance top and bottom and that is 0.010".
In the pics you can see the hone in position ready to have the drill connected to it which is a socket on an extension with a slot to engage the small lugs to drive it around. Liberal amounts of kero was used and it certainly hooked into cleaning things up and it works far better than the spring loaded hones.
You can see the high spot on the skirt and as I took 0.01mm off at a time it slowly progressed towards the oil ring land then from there up all was good.
A picture of the Australian made Somers brand rigid hone.
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Got the rings onto the piston and gapped them using the cut off wheel of my grinder. (that will be a talking point).
Fitted the piston then the crank into place and connected the big end to the conrod and then to the crank. Made a new gasket out of 1.5mm paper for the side cover that houses the other crank main, fitted a new oil seal and then put the cover on and tightened it. The rings a have a good hold of the bore but once I have it moving I can move it with a struggle by turning the crank by hand. Once the flywheels are on it will be a lot easier.
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Thanks Glort, I too am anxious to hear the mongrel run again. Not sure at what level it will run at but the aim is for it to be loud and dribbling oil somewhere and blowing smoke. :)
I have a list of things that might be wrong in what I have done and the cam gear rebuild done to a guess shape is high on the list of things. The spring tension for the needle in the injector is another. Tomorrow I want to make some caps for the valves and with a special design to do the job so will take some pics of the design. It is a combination of the originals and something new.
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Are you pre-lubing parts as you assemble ? Either with engine oil or with assembly lube ?
https://rxmechanic.com/engine-assembly-lube/
Q. How Do You Lube a Cylinder?
When applying lube on a cylinder, start by cleaning the piston by wiping off the earlier used lubricant from the piston. This is after raising its seat to the maximum. If the cylinder has a bellow or a cover, access the piston by pushing the cover-up. The piston will have some exposed parts, and that is where you apply the assembly lube. After that, distribute the lube to other parts of the piston by lowering, raising, and rotating the seat. Go through this video to see how it is done:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8z90fbpeB8&feature=youtu.be
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A lot of the things you do to the 2 strokes is a good thing and certainly won't harm anything. I don't over oil the fuel mix but I always use Premium fuel and quality 2 stroke oil and not the old sae30 mixed into the old standard fuel.
My very first Victa a Model 2, I have had since 1967 and threw the engine into a home made mini bike and rode that around the streets of Sydney for a couple of years before putting it back into the mower frame and continued to use it to mow the grass. When I turned 21 I had to rebuild the engine and went out of my way to avoid the 'chromium' rings as they wear the bore too quick. Since that full rebuild the only thing I have done over the years of ongoing use are a number of head gaskets and spark plugs, that's it. It still starts first pull on the rope and cuts the grass and throws it to buggery. Since that engine I have lost count of Victa engines I have repaired and rebuilt and still have many more to do one day.
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Corn Flake packets was my choice of cardboard for the gasket and the head got a quick rub on the cement step, high tech stuff.
As for something to attach to the Mac, I do have a couple of water pumps, no generators here and at one stage I was going to make a Prony Brake for the big Lister and this may still be an option down the track. Just for now I want it to make noise, leak oil and blow smoke.
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This is the head sorted and the new valve colletts I made and you can see an original "C" clip as a comparison.
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Next I have started the assembly of all the driven gears and stopped when I found I had lost a small woodruff key which I will buy tomorrow. I also made a flat plate to hold the governor gear on the shaft. The gear does have a small pin that sticks out but would hit the side cover if I didn't put something here to stop it moving. Made a new side cover gasket and you can see what I had to do to the speedi-sleeve that I fitted in place before fitting the crankshaft driven gear. So it had to be hit with a chisel and removed, gear fitted and new sleeve ready to go back on soon.
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How have you found those speedi-sleeves. My results with them have been “mixed” at best. But I may just be clumsy :(
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Hi Mike, I have had 100% success with them on the David Brown, TEA20 and now this. The only thing I can think of is getting it in the right place where the seal will run on it.
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Getting closer to a start up.
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Well it has happened, lots of noise and smoke, I mean smoke everywhere and its loud. Had to use my temporary belt to get it running but eventually it started running on its own, albeit rough and bloody loud under the carport. I had it running for around 10 - 12 minutes and as I was parking the tractor away it stopped. Not seized but ran out of fuel. It was getting a small amount of air back up the clear fuel line and I dont know how to stop that as yet. I ended up using the dial indicator to adjust the amount of lift on the injector. The speed wheel as it is called seems to work as I would slow it down a little bit at a time for a while but not wanting it to be slow. A lot of room for improvement but happy it makes a noise and spits oil and crap over everything, now I have to wash Dees car.
https://youtu.be/qe2_y_tSw3M
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Congrats on finally getting her running; it has been a long road.
I enjoy the rough-running and smoking old engines as well.
Here is one of my favorites
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4pNEDZgDzk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4pNEDZgDzk)
I'm not the only one, 6 million views in 10 years :o
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Hi Willw,
Nice work on having it run again. A few more trys at starting and the young fella will get to do it. As for the McDonald I need to start it again, slow it down a lot and put it under load by belting it up to something.
After that I have an 8hp CD Lister high speed tropical model that runs a dry sump set up. I want to get it ticking over again and then put it up for sale to make room. Also had a small as yet unknown model Lister offered to me today all I have to do is go and pick it up hopefully overr the weekend. I can only see the arse end, twing spoke flywheels and enclosed sump. Dont know anything else about it but I will recover it before it goes to China and offer it up to a Club member.
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Got it running slower but more room for improvement.
https://youtu.be/PKrEcCaweo8
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That looks like it would blow bonza smoke rings with the right zorst
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IT killed off the mossies for a block radius. From info supplied from another Forum it runs a bit rich but once it warms up it runs close to being right. I believe that the amount of lift I have now being around 0.8mm maybe a bit high. Also need to bed the rings in and to do that I want to load it up with something. I stuck a lump of wood under the flywheel to load it up and it smoothed out the running pretty quick but started to heat the timber up and the timber was smoking. So as it improves I will post again some more shots but your right about the smoke rings these engines are known for them.
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Just to be clear, the video I submitted was something I found on Youtube; nothing to do with me whatsoever (unless drooling counts as something to do with me) ;D
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No probs. The Mac is still killing mosquitoes for a 3 block radius but improving. Need more time to belt up a small pump to put a small amount setting up new work vehicle.