Lister Engine Forum
Lister Engines => Original Lister Cs Engines => Topic started by: vegoil on August 22, 2019, 05:47:30 PM
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can anyone tell me if it is possible to renew the two oil seals on a Lister CS8-1. one located above the oil pump (on the engine) and the other below the injector pump, without having to remove the flywheel and the housing over the governor.
is the oil seal pressed in from the out side or the inside of the housing.
regards
John
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Hi John, I`m assuming that this is a genuine Lister unit, in which case there is only one seal in the bottom of the governor assembly cover. It is pressed in from the outside. It is possible to replace this seal by undoing the oil pump, removing the plunger and then levering out the old seal. A new seal can then be drifted into place. It would be worth examining the shaft on the plunger for wear or corrosion, a new seal will achieve nothing if the shaft is worn or pitted.
The fuel pump tappet and the brass camshaft bush do not have oil seals as the engine maintains a negative crankcase pressure via the diaphragm in the crankcase breather assembly. If you are having oil leaks check the condition of the steel diaphragm, if it is damaged the crankcase may develop a positive air pressure and blow oil out of every orifice.
Bob
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Thanks for the advice ,I am not going to get to it for a while but I will let you know how I get on. this is an genuine CS
Regards
John
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Good luck John, spares are available from various sources depending on what country you live in, happy to point you in the right direction.
Bob
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Hi bob
I have taken of the oil pump and was going to pull down the plunger above the oil pump to renew the seal the one with the flat plate on the bottom, the one marked number 5 on the pump diagram.
Is there something that holds it in because it only drops down 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch then solid! Is there a retaining screw or do you just use more fores.
I have a new plunger on order it should be here on Saturday so need to get the worn one out to renew it and the seal I am also giving the oil pump an over-hall withe a new parts kit.
John
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Hello all,
Has any one else have had the same problem?
John
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Hi Vegoil,, I am so used to Listeroid engines that I forgot that the original Lister engines were slightly different, the cam follower on the end of the oil pump plunger shaft had a tee shaped hardened steel wearing surface pressed into it. Modern replacements do not have this. It should be possible to remove the original with a few sharp taps with a hammer on the square base plate. This should allow you to withdraw the shaft but will leave the small cam follower inside the engine, it may be possible to remove this with a magnetic probe by removing the crankcase door and working through one of the two holes in the camshaft drive gear, not something I have ever tried. If that fails you will need to remove the flywheel and governor housing.
Good luck,
Bob
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Further to my earlier post, it may be possible to lift out the cam tappet that drives the injector pump. Drop a magnet probe down the hole and lift out the unwanted part that way.
Bob
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thanks for the advice I will keep you informed.
John
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I have tried to remove the key from the flywheel. I have had heat on the flywheel but not to much as I don't want to damage the seal at the crank shaft. I have made a puller for the key but it wont budge. for the moment I am having to live with the oil leak.
any suggestions?
Cheers John
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If you have heated it enough and then it has since cooled - with a bit of luck you have damaged the bond between the slightly different materials of the key (steel) and the flywheel (cast iron) which has formed from rust & weather over decades
If you get a handful of something like plasticine (kid's play-dough stuff) and clean up the shaft and flywheel hub area so that will stick to it, then use the plasticine to make a weir/dam around the key and the face of the flywheel so that you can actually soak the key/keyway submerged in INOX for a couple of days or a week - with a bit of luck & patience it will soak right through
I Like INOX as a penetrant, others here have concoctions of ATF and solvents . . .
When it comes to the puller and force "more is better" within limits. You can do something like butting the end of a length of 20mm HT threaded rod up to the end of the key, cutting a bit of steel flat to sit vertical on top of the stub of the key and the threaded stock, welding the two together, and using the threaded rod as the basis for a meatier puller?
I have seen illustrations of that sort of build here from time to time - someone may chime in?
Good luck
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There is no need to remove the flywheel. It is possible to remove the camshaft injection pump cover by removing the studs with the cover in position. Double nut the studs to remove them. I have done this on a genuine 8/1 no problem.
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thanks for the advice, This is a genuine 8/1. Is there enough room to get it out over the cam shaft and governor? or do you have to release the cam shaft at the Double v flywheel end as well.
cheers John
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No need to remove anything else. Just the 3 studs and you can slide it off the camshaft and wriggle it past the flywheel.
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I think you are supposed to roll the flywheels till an opening is adjacent to the camshaft, then start extracting it. You don't want to get some gear half engaged and tilted, and then spin the flywheel to get it past
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Is there any of the governor linkage or anything else inside the governor case that has to be disconnected before I attempt to remove the case. this explanation may be helpful to anyone else that has the same problem.
cheers John
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No need to remove anything inside the case if all you want is the case off to replace the seal. Just the 3 studs and injection pump pipes and a clevis pin on the external linkage. Good point about aligning it with one of the flywheel holes before you start
Mick
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It might be a good idea to remove the injection pump before you try. It was about 10 years ago when I last did it and I cant remember if I removed it first. Its only a couple of bolts anyway and easier to do when connected to the engine.