Lister Engine Forum
Lister Engines => Original Lister Cs Engines => Topic started by: t19 on August 04, 2006, 08:03:29 PM
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Ok I am going to clean my SOM, repaint it, and then get her ready to start.
Question - Oil - what kind is best? I take it a Diesel reated oild with no detergent is what I should get.
Question - Lube - what do you guys use for lub, anything in particular?
PArts. I have a damaged hot water outlet. It needs to be replaced. What's a good source for these?
I remember somome saying they got thier muffler and pipes from speedy muffler, used a Sentra muffler. Were they able to mate up to the exhaust value ok?
I will be taking some pictures and posting them here, I have a lot of extra gear on mine that looks like it was part of the autostart system
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Oil, non detergent mono weight, depends on your climate if you go for a 30 or 40 weight
lube, see oil
water outlet, BSP pipe
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Oil, non detergent mono weight, depends on your climate if you go for a 30 or 40 weight
lube, see oil
water outlet, BSP pipe
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Paqe 42 part number 4778K197 1 1/4 BSPT to NPT adaptor nipples. Other sizes there also.
But maybe in Canada they have BSP fittings at the hardware stores?
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Oil, non detergent mono weight, depends on your climate if you go for a 30 or 40 weight
lube, see oil
water outlet, BSP pipe
Got Diesel Oil, non detergent 30 weight
Lube OK
What about grease for the grease nipples on the cups and on the genhead, is there a particular type I should use? I take it synthetic oils are all wrong :)
Anyone in Canada have a source? Princess Auto does not have them, I'm going to check out NAPA next week.
Well spent the day cleaning the old girl up. The top 1/2 is now clean, and oiled. Now to work on the bottom 1/2 and clean the wheels, and base. Then on to the fuel system, clean up the sump and put some new oil in her and get her ready for the big day.
Guy, I've printed out your steps and will follow them. Looking for a muffler and a rad next. Then Start me up!!!
Then I'll tart her up.... already have had 5 villagers stop by to take a look :)
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I still think an auto luber ( the electro chemical kind ) set to minimum injection ( some will pump 8 ounce in 2 years ) would be a wise investment. A runny EP 1 Moly, rub the excess into anything that might like a little lube
I like the EP1 mollys becasue they are soft and run you can need to grease a littel more often but thats not a bad thing especialy in a dirty area.
Grease is actualy oil in a binder. Grease bleeds oil the binder holds the lubricant in place kind of like a runny sponge. Once the oil is gone often you need to purge the old binder out, such is the case with bearings in the ST heads with open bearings. I like a purge port on the bottom of an open bearing housing with an EP 2. @Z bearings I prefer an EP 1, no outer purge port, but rather clean out the inner bearing caps and scrap the bearings every 5000 hours or so depending on use.
Grease has a shelf life. Open tubes of grease bleed out leaving you with a thick binder and less oil than intended. Some of the oils used can oxidise in very old grease. Different greases use different binders like Lythium and other metals, types clay, synthetic binders ect. Then you have aditives like engine oils, zinc, presevatives ( in the past animal and veg oils were also used sperm whale oil was considered a good additive)....
Oils used in grease have their viscosity rated in SUS numbers not SAE this cab be confusing
True Soap greases are interesting, these ( not used in anything modern, not even a Lister ). A thick soap binder hold an oil in a thick brick ( realy thick stuff like hard butter Shell Obra is an example ) and the oil is released by a combination of moving metal and running water threw the bearing.
Grease is cool and complex stuff, often taken for granted and miss used.
Doug
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just took the cover off and lloked inside. There was oil everywhere!!! I took pictures, later tonight I will if I have time update my web site. I looked up at the cylinder walls and they looked good, no rust or anything.
Drained the oil. Thick bits came out, pretty gross!! Don't think i'll use this as part of my fuel LOL
Don't know for sure, but the oil looked pretty old, but so far everything has looked good. The splash lube seems to work. Going to clean teh oil filter next, and once back in, I am going to prime the oil pump as per the manual and see if I can see the pump working. Damn so far its hot, humid but exciting stuff.
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T-19---
To further the body of knowledge on these engines could you check the oil dipper and see if it's solid or hollow and what thread it has?
If you're going to take off the auto start components around the throttle and valve lifter I'd be a buyer for whatever linkages and parts you're not going to use.
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hotater
Why not rethread the bottom cap to american threads.
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Easy for me to do, but the object is to get the 'standard' so a bunch of aftermarket dippers can be made for those that can't.
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T-19---
To further the body of knowledge on these engines could you check the oil dipper and see if it's solid or hollow and what thread it has?
If you're going to take off the auto start components around the throttle and valve lifter I'd be a buyer for whatever linkages and parts you're not going to use.
Weill do as soon as I get well enough to do so, might be next weekend before I get back to her as I'm dead beat
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re con rod dippers. The thread on the 6-1 and 8-1 Lister engines is 5/16 BSF(British standard fine). I do not know what thread is on the twin cylinder engines. The con rod part number is different for the twin cylinder engines acording to my 1975 Lister parts list. The 1983 Lister 8-1 & 16-2 engine manual says this about con rod dippers.
The dipper fitted to the 8-1 & 6-1 engines is flattened in section and should cut the oil edgeways and NOT broardside on.The hollow dipper in the twin cylinder engines is a scoop, the opening of which is turned away from the crankcase door. The big end bearings are lubricated from below by a hollow dipper in the twin cylinder engines, and by oil holes from above in the 6-1 & 8-1 engines.
Mick
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Hi I don't understand this unless the intent is to splash the oil in a particular direction in stead of scooping the oil into the dipper and force it into the bottom shell.
I haven't pulled a bottom cap from my engine to see.
BTW one of the rods in my engine is stamped with a "5". I wonder what engine it was intended for?
Dennis
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listeroil my 24/2 has no scoop i understand the not knife edge. there would be little efect. the straight on worst case sen. would be foaming of the oil as i see it. is the in between the two to avoid either and promote circulation? i turn 1000 rpm had no mark on the dip stick and was advised to fill it to the bottom of the con rod nut. yes the breather omits some cc oil . do have a pump but no filter {YET} power anand #50355 and proud to have one. they are flat blade only THE DIPPERS that is. you think this slinger really needs scoops?
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I only have experiance with single cylinder engines and have never even seen a twin cylinder engine. I do not know about Indian engines, it seems like they made a few modifications from the Lister design. It probably depends what type of con rod you have. All the con rods I have seen 7 in total have solid dippers, 5 of them flattened with a knife edge on both edges and they cut the oil edgeways. The other 2 dippers one was flattened and cut the oil broardside and didn't seem to use any more oil than my other engine. The last one was a 5/16 BSF set screw cut down to length and i've never seen that engine run. All the con rods have 2 holes above the big end bearings.
My only information about twins is out of the Lister manuals that are years old so I am not in a position to comment about them from first hand experiance. however I do think you will be fine with the solid dipper because my one which cuts the oil sideways throws so much oil around that everything gets lots of oil.
As far as can understand the manual about the scoop dippers is that it faces away from the crankcase door ie opposite and as such would force the oil into the big end bearing.
All the best Mick
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The 10/2 and 12/2 engines are basically two single barrels and heads on a bigger crankcase and with a 180 degree crankshaft. I have a complete engine in pieces if anyone needs any info on what is inside. The camshaft runs full width across the block and is gear driven the same as the singles with the same lube point at the non-driven end under the hex head plug 'Oil Daily' or whatever.
There is a centre crankshaft bearing with split shells, a plunger pump running off the camshaft at the front of the engine which feeds oil through 5 copper pipes into the bearings etc. Big-ends are scoop/splash lubricated.
Most of the injection parts are common, and the blocks, rods, pistons and heads are the same as the single cylinder engines of the same power. Note that the 3/1 engines are totally different from the crankcase upwards, very few parts are common but the bottom end is pure 5/1 or 6/1.
Oil has to be a Detergent type for any diesel, I don't know where this non-detergent oil idea comes from, but you'll soon have problems if you don't use the correct stuff. This goes back years, almost to the 1930's and it hasn't changed since!
Read any of the genuine Lister handbooks, they will always quote detergent oil. Synthetic oils are not required, and even thick oils are not always necessary, but detergent it has to be.
If you need information on 'why', look up one of the oil company technical sites which will tell you about holding dirt in suspension rather than allowing it to form deposits around the engine etc etc
Contact me if you need any further info on te twin cylinder (10/2 12/2) Listers, I can always pop out and take some pictures of the parts if need be.
Listerdiesel
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Listerdiesel---
Could you link to a Lister manual for the CS engines that calls for detergent oil?
The reason dirt is held in suspension in detergent oils is so the oil filter gets a chance at it.. The CS used a 'dead' sump to catch the gunk, not a filter.
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Well my SOM has a filter, it is hidden behind the wheel and looks like a wire condom ;) It was thick with gunk
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Well my SOM has a filter, it is hidden behind the wheel and looks like a wire condom ;) It was thick with gunk
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just checked my manual for the lister and it calls for a good quality diesel engine heavy duty detergent lubercating oil that meet spec 496// must be some type indian spec.straight mineral oils are not suitable, neither are oils of less detergency than specified.page 4 of the manual. do not know what a original would require//sid
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Then manual that Guy scanned and sent me called for non-detergent oil
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http://www.homebrewpower.co.uk/Picture_Albums/Lister%20CS%20Range%20-%20Manual/slides/Lister%20Diesel%20Manual%20CS%203-1%205-1%2010-2%20-%200007.html
http://www.homebrewpower.co.uk/Picture_Albums/Lister%20CS%20Range%20-%20Manual/slides/Lister%20Diesel%20Manual%20CS%203-1%205-1%2010-2%20-%200008.html
These pages specify a "diesel-grade" oil of one of about eight brands. No mention of dispersants or detergents anywhere. I googled briefly today to find information on just what was in these oils and how they diffrered from the automobile oils that we are specifically warned against in these pages. Absolutely nothing. I suspect this information is in a dusty book somewhere. Anybody have a good engineering university library nearby?
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Well there is a difference, the guys at Mr Lube would not put Synthetic oil in my Passat Diesel because it was not rated for Diesel.
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Well there is a difference, the guys at Mr Lube would not put Synthetic oil in my Passat Diesel because it was not rated for Diesel.
No argument with the oil change guys on the VW. I'd suggest something like Delvac or Rotella synthetic in an appropriate viscosity grade for the Passat. Put a bypass filter on it and run the oil for 30-60,000 miles.
The book I posted links to dates from the 1930s or so. SI and CI oils now are not even vaguely the same as they were then. Drawing comparisons based on nomenclature is risky at best. Listers were designed so long ago that the supplies they were designed around simply don't exist any more. It's not a trivial question to figure out what should be used.
Add in the fact that some listeroids have the stepped sump and pump of the originals, and some (like mine) are entirely splash lube, and the question gets more complex.
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aqmxv---
This is a very good point. A LOT of research and effort has been made in the last week to figure out why some Lister bearings are failing early. The lubrication is always the first suspect in such a case.
I'm betting early diesel oils had quite a few heavy metal components for extra lubricity and long life. ANY information on old oil formulations would be very helpful in figuring this stuff out.
The one thing that MUST be understood about these Lister(oid) engines, though. They are NOT made to moderen 'Japanese' standards of fit and finish that can really use the modern synthetics and thin multi-vis motor oils. Think of a Lister(oid) as Granddaddy's tractor. Now what oil is best for THAT?
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re con rod dippers. The thread on the 6-1 and 8-1 Lister engines is 5/16 BSF(British standard fine).
Mick
5/16"-22TPI=BSF for the machinist guys. It sounds like they all have the same dipper thread.
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The 1983 Lister Instruction Book No103 on 6-1 &8-1 engines states this about oil.
Naturally aspirated diesel engines must be run on H.D. Diesel lubricating oils to specifications equal or better than DEF2101D or BS1905 type B or MIL-L-46152 orAP1 CD. Straight mineral oils are not suitable, neither are of less detergency than specified.
MIL-L-2104B or MIL-L-2104C or AP1 CD oils are recomemded for engines running at a high load factor, particularly in conjunction with high ambient temperatures. They must also be used if the sulphur content exceeds 0.6%.
Series 111 oils must be used when oil changes are made at periods longer than 250 hours.
Multi grade oils must exceed specifications MIL-L-2104B or MIL-l-2104C.
The oil should be suitable for oil changes every 250 hours without undue oxidation, with sump temperatures reaching 150C in tropical climates under extremely severe applications, and 120C under normal applications.
Viscosity
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The 1983 Lister Instruction Book No103 on 6-1 &8-1 engines states this about oil.
Naturally aspirated diesel engines must be run on H.D. Diesel lubricating oils to specifications equal or better than DEF2101D or BS1905 type B or MIL-L-46152 orAP1 CD. Straight mineral oils are not suitable, neither are of less detergency than specified.
MIL-L-2104B or MIL-L-2104C or AP1 CD oils are recomemded for engines running at a high load factor, particularly in conjunction with high ambient temperatures. They must also be used if the sulphur content exceeds 0.6%.
Series 111 oils must be used when oil changes are made at periods longer than 250 hours.
Multigrade oils must exceed specifications MIL-L-2104B or MIL-l-2104C.
The oil should be suitable for oil changes every 250 hours without undue oxidation, with sump temperatures reaching 150C in tropical climates under extremely severe applications, and 120C under normal applications.
Viscosity
The viscosity of the lubricating oil must be as follows--
For starting temperatures--
Below -15C SAE. 5W
Between -15C and +4C SAE. 10W
Between 4C and 30C SAE. 20/20W
Above 30C SAE. 30W
The oil I use in my 8-1 engined 4.5KW Start-O-Matic is HDX 30 to MIL-L-2104B spec. and this seems better than the multigrade I used to use. I don't use as much oil as I did when using multigrade. I run for 8 hours a day every day and now I only need to top up once a week.
Mick
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I got news for somebody! The only way to get the sump temperature up to 250 F is to put a propane heater in it! 130 is TOPS.
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Thanks to Listeroil for that useful bit of information. The Lister manual on my copy of the Utterpower CD (which I just discovered today) dates from the '50s, since it specifies compliance with US Military spec. Mil-0-2104 (no suffix).
I looked up mil-0-2104. This page http://www.fuchs.com.sa/english/products-appendix.asp very usefully gives a running history of worldwide oil standards for both SI and CI engines back to WWII.
Mil-0-2104 turns out to be the follow-on to U.S. Army standard 2-104A and 2-104, issued between 1941 and 1943, and were superseded by U.S. Army 2-104B May 1943. 2-104B. 2-104B was the same as 2-104/104A except that it specified testing with a high-sulfur fuel. This matters because sufur reacts with water created during combustion to form sulfuric acid. Strong basic buffers must be added to the oil to prevent corrosion. The other requirements laid down in the early 2-104/mil-0-2104 standards seem to be shear resistance and extreme pressure protection. Tellingly, the API equivalent certification ti mil-0-2104A is CB. Mil-0-2104B is equivalent to API CC.
What all this seems to boil down to is that Lister expected people to change the oil often enough to get the entrained gunk out. They specified a level of detergency in later years that should keep the carbon in suspension, but would probably settle heavier particulates out to the deep sump over time.
I have corresponded with a college friend who is now heavily into antique military vehicles. There are plenty of unfiltered sumps with con-rod dippers running around in his crowd, too. The consensus there is to run a detergent oil on rebuilt engine and to change frequently. If you have vintage deposits of crud, dispersants and detergents are not your friend. If you can't be bothered to swab out your original Lister crankcase, use a non-detergent oil
Now onto viscosity: Lister does not specifiy a single multigrade oil for the CS ever. This is telling, because they were common as dirt by 1983. I suspect they didn't like what happens to viscosity improvers when the oil goes acidic. The good news is that you can get API rated single viscosity oils at your friendly agricultural supply dealer. Plenty of vintage farm equipment uses stuff that should meet API CC or CD and is SAE 20 or 30 viscosity. Likewise, the Detroit Diesel folks tend to need oils that have similar characteristics to what Lister specified.
For breaik-in of a listeroid, I recommend lots of strong magnets and frequent, hot oil changes. After break-in, change the oil when it starts to look too black or smell funny.
For Hotater: The temperatures specified are maximums. The magic minimum for just about any crancase is about 160 F. If you can keep engine oil between 170F and 220F, it lasts a very long time. Below 170F, water emulsifies into the oil, and above about 220F the oil begins to coke or oxidize. The fact that Listers and listeroids draw a vacuum on the crankcase can't but help with getting rid of the water vapor.
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Hi With the heater I have under the sump on a 95f day, the sump seems to stabilise at 170f.
Dennis
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Back and forth.... back and forth...... back and forth......
I have a good mind to contact a Lister/Petter dealer and ask what they think for the CS And AV series....
Settle this once and for all.
Doug
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Indian Lister specification is, according to booklet included with a new GTC 6-1 engine, "IS 496". This is, according to the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) at http://www.bis.org.in/bis/start.htm , a withdrawn standard superceded by IS 13656, which specification may be seen in detail at http://www.bis.org.in/bis/html/13656.html .
Chevron ([mailto:lubetek@chevron.com]) says: "You can use Chevron Delo 400 SAE 30 or 40 in your diesel engine needing an IS 13656 oil"
Ambient operating temperature range determines whether one used 30# or 40#. Check with API for that, but I use 40# in all conditions. It seldom freezes here and get quite hot.
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Delo 400 comes in straight weights?? my local guy said it didn't. ???
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A thought crossed my mind on rereading Listeroil's note .....DEF2101D or BS1905.....and so on. This is exactly what is written in my ST2MA manual, which would make sense for an engine with a built in oil pump and replaceable oil filter. The temperature ranges also make much more sense for an aircooled engine. Detergent oil and high heat ratings are a plus when filtration is a given and the sump temperatures are far higher than a water cooled engine. Could this debate be in part a mixup of engine and oil types? My only extensive "old engine" knowledge is on Wisconsins, large sump and no oil filter, and rest assured that detergent oil was not used, instead about once a year the sumps were cleaned of sludge (my job as a boy) and then refilled with 20 wt. for winter or 40 wt. for summer use. I still can't wrap my mind around an engine with no filtration calling for detergent oil. I still have 4 old wisconsin TFDs and THDs, and single viscosity oil is still available if you are willing to buy it in 5 gallon cans. I have been running a couple of these engines off and on for better than 50 years, so I feel sure that non detergent oil will work if the sumps are cleaned out every year or two.
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Delo comes in a variety of weights. Go check Chevron at: http://www.chevrondelo.com/ I'm sorry, but your guy is mistaken. Our NAPA dealer says his distributor only stocks multi and 30#, but local chevron jobber has no problem - can get drums of it!
I'd add that the use of multiweight oil in diesels is somewhat problematic.The polymers that make those oils "multi" can gum things, like rings, up badly under some conditions. And their use is unnecessary anyway - so the choice is simple and depends solely on operating environment temperature.
Delo comes is weights from 10# to 50#. I shrunk the url that leads to the chevron page dealing with this subject to this: http://tinyurl.com/o6ny5 . From there you can get adobe data sheets.
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I learn something every day!!
NOW the question becomes-- Can I switch for multi-weight to single on all the diesels around the place? Ford says 'no' on the PS 7.3. Onan says 'no' on the 30 Kws and Onan says 'no' on the 15Kw....THAT means I can't talk the landlord into buying another drum of one grade to fit all. Drats!
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We use delo 400 SAE 40# in toyota corolla, 7.3 FORD diesel, kubota diesel tractor, kubota genset, and GTC (lister type) 6 - 1 diesel generator, and several portable gas engines driving compressors, garden tractors, etc. This complies with the mfg SAE spectification in the case of some, but not all of these engines. It does comply in ALL these engines with the mfgs API specification. This is because muliweight oils are specified for the corolla, for example, in order to get better milage. The oil consumption is much lower with 40# oil than with multi, especially in the toyota, and we have had no problems with lubrication.
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thanks for the info....you reckon it would work at twenty below??
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thanks for the info....you reckon it would work at twenty below??
Absolutely, positively not - at least not without some serious crankcase heat. Speaking as somebody who got 250,000 miles out of a '94 7AFE Corolla in the rust belt before it was fatally sideswiped, I can say with the weight of experience that 10w30 is specified for cold starting for a reason. Full-flow pressurized oil systems are designed around a particular viscosity. If the viscosity is too low, the oil runs out of the bearings faster than the pump can push it in, resulting in metal-metal contact in the normal operating range. If the viscosity is too high, the oil does not flow to the bearings at a sufficient rate to maintain the hydrodynamic wedge, resulting in metal-metal contact. If the oil is really too viscous, the pressure control valve can be overwhelmed, resulting in excessive oil pump wear, gasket failure, bulging or exploded oil filters, and other fun phenomena.
Viscosity of a newtonian fluid (lube oils without VI modifiers are pretty close to the theoretical ideal) is inversely affected by temperature. So SAE 40 oil may meet the API spec, but it emphatically does not meet the cold-flow requirements. The crank-mounted gearotor pump on the last two generations of Toyota A engine, in particular, probably doesn't respond well to cold-starts with too thick oil...
You could probably get away with it with garage keeping or a warm climate. But it's "getting away," and you're definitely off the tribological reservation in doing it. As for reducing oil consumption, my Corolla pushed a lot of oil vapor through the PCV valve with 10W30 oil. You can get the same benefit with changing to 10W40 without having the cold pumping problems. I'd probably go with 15W40 one-fleet "diesel" oil in your situation.
Single-viscosity oil is for internal-combustion fossils like listeroids and Detroit diesels. The engineers designing almost anything for first-world use after about 1965 assumed that a multiviscosity oil would be used, and designed the bearing tolerances, oil pump displacements, oil galley sizes, etc assuming certain values for oil viscosity on cold-start at -20F. If you go out of this range, you may get by, or you may pay a heavy price.
I'm not always a by-the-book guy. But I am a firm believer in actually understanding the design requirements and limitations of a machine before doing something specifically against design expectation. Engineers aren't usually idiots. Unless you have reason to belive you're better at tribology than Toyota's, Fords, and Kubota's engineers, or you dont' care about what may happen to your engine tomorrow morning, you should probably be cautious about experimenting...
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GREAT answer!!
You made the point I was getting at. When I moved here there was half a drum of Delo 400 15W40 in the gen shed. THAT was the main reason for experimenting with it in a Lister...to standardize my 'fleet' oil requirements. It did NOT work. 15W40 is too thin for the Lister. I'll have to accept the fact I've got two oil requirements and stock them accordingly.
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my take on the issue, have made my point elsewhere but i want to chime in here.
because of the design of the listeroid, with its top oiling, the oil holes and grooves as supplied by the manufactures
i would not recommend a multi weight detergent oil, period. because of the following
1. the top oiling method is marginal in my opinion at best,
2. there is no provision for full flow filtration
3. the top holes and grooves are in the center of the highest pressure point of the brg shell set, they are
in precisely the correct spot to destroy the oil hyd wedge that has formed, thicker oil will help here, thinner is clearly a
disaster.
in the event that some changes have been designed, implimented with the following, then multiweight detergent oil might be of use.
1. plain shells, most imparticular a top shell without holes or grooves, so that the oil wedge that is form can be maintained
2. a hollow dipper tube to feed oil into the lowest loaded part of the shell set, ie, into the center of the lower shell
3. the lower shell has the groove running axially down the center of the shell, as in modern construction, to feed the chamfer/ramp and aid in formation of the hydraulic wedge
4. some form of filtration is installed in the hollow dipper, to catch the fines, and reduce their entry into the brg shells to begin with.
it is my firm belief that if these design changes can become a reality, then a multigrade detergent oil could be used.
until then there is simply no good case for running a multigrade detergent oil, and plenty of rational reasoning and empirical evidence to not use it.
bob g
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We're going to have to revisit this when I see what India has done with the Petter and its presure fed cam and crank. Should have som pictures in a couple of weeks for the tare down.
The GM90 deserves some comments because of its oiling system as well. ( are yo out there Mike Monteith )
Doug
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Bob said, on Liseroid oiling:
until then there is simply no good case for running a multigrade detergent oil, and plenty of rational reasoning and empirical evidence to not use it.
No argument on any point. In fact, I agree completely. Splash-oiled engines desgined for monograde oils should use monograde oils. It appears that Lister always specified some detergency for the CS engines to keep the carbon in suspension and prevent coking, and that this was common practice as far back as the 1930s for diesels. Their solution for gunk management was the stepped sump. Given the low pressures and rise rates involved, it all should (and by many decades of historical evidence does) work very well.
The only change I can see that might be required for a splash-only single-sump listeroid like mine would be more frequent oil changes. No big deal.
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"The only change I can see that might be required for a splash-only single-sump listeroid like mine would be more frequent oil changes. No big deal."
i couldnt agree more!
personally i would think that 100 hr intervals would be prudent, and perhaps a recycler unit could be built fairly easily and inexpensively, all one would need is a way to heat the oil to drive off moisture, and then pump it thru a 1 micron filter, and reuse it.,,, don't know why that wouldnt work.
with a good recycler system i might even go to 50 hour changes, most especially while the engine is fairly new.
bob g
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That or some sort of pump and filter system hooked to the engine. Either way, it's pretty well documented (back to at least WWII) that you want to get the water and solids out of the oil on a diesel, and after that, as long as the pH is still OK, it can probably go right back in the enigne.
I intend to run a hot water coil into/under the sump on my listeroid just to get the crankcase up to the magic temperature range. That should take care of the emulsified water problem...
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Lots of good thoughts on oil.
I would point out that I said that my situation is that we are in a very mild climate - Almost no frost and it does get quite hot. If there is serious cold, (like Laramie wyo) then it's obvious that a 40# oil is inappropriate. (40# is about like tar, especially if there's any moisture in it, at really cold temperatures.)
I used to live in Laramie - penzoil 10-40 wouldn't flow in a dodge 318, but the motor would start....almost instant bearing wipe! 20, maybe 30 below....people said it got to 40 below. I wonder. Anyway, we stoped using penzoil...
The Corola does worry us a bit in winter, (engine block temperature on start perhaps 45 degrees, mostly) with 40#, the mfg says multiweight - and yes, of course cold starts are part of his reason - but mileage is also a lot of it. We let the engine run unloaded, as we do all engines, for a minute or more. Anyway the cam lobes look fine - and that's where lube tends to fail in cold starts... Delo is fine for gasoline engines calling for API SL, so says chevron. The corola calls for API SL oil. My reason for sticking with delo in a single weight is twofold: 1) simplicity, and 2) I have had multiweights clabber up in the piston rings and generally gunk up an engine. I'd rather take the time to warm 'em up than take the time to overhaul...
There's a worthwhile paper on the subject at
http://www.texacoxpresslube.com/carcare/article_viscosity.html