Lister Engine Forum
Lister Engines => Listeroid Engines => Topic started by: fabricator on June 17, 2012, 02:26:08 PM
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Well, as the subject states I just Couldn't stand the Indian "paint" any more, it is not fuel or oil proof at all, it's not really even oxygen proof.
Anyway I took it apart and sand blasted every spec of this stuff of every part, while I had the wheels off I also did 38ac's balancing method drilling holes this time, which turned out perfectly.
I also drilled a two inch hole in the head to use as an oil pre heat system, the thread in the fuel line nuts is metric 14-1.5, I went to a local diesel fuel injection shop and had them make me two twelve inch lines with cones and nuts on each end and cut me one raw piece of line 24 inches long their line is one quarter inch OD one sixteenth inch ID.
The sealing cones are awesome on these lines, they kick the s#it out of the sorry ass Indian things, the cones are separate pieces and they silver solder them on he lines.
I then bought four grade eight 14-1.5 metric bolts making sure there was some straight unthreaded section on the bolts, the bolts were drilled out on the lathe and on the threaded end the hole was counter taper countersunk to match the cones on the lines.
A plate was then made to cover the hole with four holes in the corners to match drilled and tapped holes in the head, and two holes for the drilled out bolts/fuel fittings to pass through these were then tig welded on both sides to the plate with the taper counter sunk threaded portion on the side that would be outside of the head.
I made the twenty four inch long raw section of fuel line into a coil that would fit inside the two inch hole in the head, then drilled out the inside the head ends of the fuel bolt fittings just over one quarter inch so the ends of the coil would fit in these bores, I then tig welded the coil ends to the bolt ends.
Now the coil goes inside the head in direct contact with the cooling water and preheats my WVO before injection, since a picture is worthy a thousand words here are some of the parts.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/photobucket-1779-1339937409565.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/photobucket-7788-1339937387267.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/photobucket-34465-1339937341783.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/photobucket-1251-1339937369918.jpg)
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And here it is all put together and running.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/th_photobucket-32020-1339939915735.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/?action=view¤t=photobucket-32020-1339939915735.mp4)
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Beautiful work and proof lipstick can be put on a pig.
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Nice work!
Bob
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Cool! Would you mind sharing how did you do your dry sump and lube sytems so it will run sideways?? :laugh: :laugh:
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Cool! Would you mind sharing how did you do your dry sump and lube sytems so it will run sideways?? :laugh: :laugh:
The problem is between my ears, I can't get GD photo bucket to rotate the damn picture and make it stay rotated, I have a love hate relationship with technology, prolly like 90% hate, I have actually been known to throw printers in the wood stove, also a thing called a print server went up the stove pipe, I know that's not politically correct but that's how I roll.
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Good work! Keep on trying new things with that tech, or use lister engine gallery to upload your photos. :)
dieselgman
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Cool! Would you mind sharing how did you do your dry sump and lube sytems so it will run sideways?? :laugh: :laugh:
I have a love hate relationship with technology, prolly like 90% hate, .
Me three!!! Id much rather be on the lathe or mill making a part or assembling. I do like the color scheme. I'm thinking about something non-green for the next one myself.
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The green reminded me too much of puke, especially when it got all curdled up from bio leaks, right now is the first time I do not have one single leak anywhere, makes me kinda nervous, the leaks let me know there was something in there to leak out. ;D
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So now it will look like curdled blood? :P Now it really is a chick magnet.
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Good work! Keep on trying new things with that tech, or use lister engine gallery to upload your photos. :)
dieselgman
[/quote
i couldnt figure out how to use lister engine gallery
getterdone [but i couldn't] ??? :-\]
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Don't give up... I had a lot of trouble using it at first. (And I used to be a computer techie and teacher.) ???
Any more, this stuff can get me cussing - but a new day and refreshed patience usually pays off. :laugh:
dieselgman
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I think there should be some tutorials around here somewhere for using the gallery and posting images. Ade did a pretty good job explaining the posting process here:
http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=5796.0
dieselgman
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Have you considered rotating the camera or laying down when shooting photos.
You can also right click the jpg file and chose "Open with" Microsoft Office Picture Manager. Pretty direct uncomplicated program.
Casey
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That high pressure line modification is awesome fabricator. I was thinking of something like that but never acted on it since I am currently running an 80%WVO 20%RUG blend. Do you preheat your fuel before starting?
-Cole
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mauicole;
I am currently running an 80%WVO 20%RUG blend.
Kind of popped my eyes. I had never seen the RUG side that big. And then I thought "1:8 is actually 12.5%" which seems to be a common number I run into on the street and web. It's also what I use just before I pour the blend into what turns out to be a 1:3 (1 part blend and 2 parts B20). Oh yeah, this is in a "DI" Isuzu NPR truck.
fabricator:
I'm always impressed when the heat is harvested that many operators throw away. Being on the high pressure side makes even more sense. Do you do any heating prior to the lift or injector pumps?
To be redundant - You do beautiful work.
Casey
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Hey Casey,
I started experimenting with blending and running it in my '83 F250 IDI (15%RUG 80%WMO) . It ran well but smoked more than I liked. I experimented with blends up to 35% RUG (trying to match the viscosity of pump diesel) ended up at 20% to save money and it worked just as well. While I was burning the 5 barrels of WMO I got from some drag racer friends, I began to collect soy WVO. After running out of the WMO I made the switch. Even though WMO has more power, I read about the abrasive ash problems some were having and thought it wise to switch. There are now two gas stations on Maui selling ethanol free RUG and that is what I use. I also tried blending 1 gallon of acetone per 50 gallon batch but it really had a bad exhaust smell. (it's supposed to break down the animal fats in WVO)
-Cole
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Cole,
With a well heated system, and a start/stop on diesel, your IDI Ford should run just fine on 100% WVO.
I have a 1995 Chevy 6.5 Suburban with 221,000. The last 35,000 were on 100% WVO, and your IDI 6.9 should be just as happy.
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That high pressure line modification is awesome fabricator. I was thinking of something like that but never acted on it since I am currently running an 80%WVO 20%RUG blend. Do you preheat your fuel before starting?
-Cole
I run on bio until things heat up then switch to wvo, but my 65 gallon tank of wvo is in the rafters above the engine in the hottest part of the shed, so it's about 80-100 degrees before it enters the IP.
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Hey Casey,
I started experimenting with blending and running it in my '83 F250 IDI (15%RUG 80%WMO) . It ran well but smoked more than I liked. I experimented with blends up to 35% RUG (trying to match the viscosity of pump diesel) ended up at 20% to save money and it worked just as well. While I was burning the 5 barrels of WMO I got from some drag racer friends, I began to collect soy WVO. After running out of the WMO I made the switch. Even though WMO has more power, I read about the abrasive ash problems some were having and thought it wise to switch. There are now two gas stations on Maui selling ethanol free RUG and that is what I use. I also tried blending 1 gallon of acetone per 50 gallon batch but it really had a bad exhaust smell. (it's supposed to break down the animal fats in WVO)
-Cole
I use acetone in my bio, basically is affects the surface tension causing it to have finer droplets in the spray pattern.