Lister Engine Forum
How to / DIY => Engines => Topic started by: contaucreek on August 12, 2010, 12:11:48 AM
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Thoughts on boring an original 6 cylinder and sweating in a cast iron liner ? Anyone tried this ? Maybe a step on the top to retain with head pressure ?
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What about boring it out to receive a listeroid style wet sleeve?
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contaucreek
Why not, I have had it done 2 times worked fine both times. 1 time was dry sleeving an industrial air compressor that was given to me because 1 of the circlips had come out and the wrist pin sliced the cylinder.
Other time was a cracked Chevy v8 high performance 396 CID
Billswan
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The only issue I can think of is the possibilty of boring through into the water jacket.
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Thats it. I was hoping someone could refresh my memory of how much meat there is there. How thick are the liners ? Of course I realize they are cut/ground to precision after insertion but lets talk average...1/8 wall ? Or how about this,based on experience how thin is the cut off point. It looks like I probably need to open up 1/16-1/8 to get the bore cleaned up and I need a cast piston too. The head work was done 2 years ago.
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The factory used to recommend boring to +.020 and fitting an oversize piston. There must be some NOS pistons out there somewhere! (I've got 2 in my 10/2 but my need is greater than yours!)
Cheers,
Brian
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I have not witnessed the process myself, but I have looked over 2 VA cylinder barrels that were sleeved with something to the effect of a 1/8th inch thick liner that is basically pressed into the newly machined bore. The idea is when that has worn, they cut a slot in the liner and pop it out and replace it again.
Seems simple enough to me, but we cant have it done here. A friend of mine knows of a shop in FL that used to do this kinda work for him when he was a mechanic over there. They did work on 3208s and such. Gonna get the name of the place when I see him again.
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You need to find a liner supplier that can supply a liner that is suitable for pressing into the nored-out block.
We have used Bedford truck liners before now to get round this sort of issue, and I have a 6/1 block that will need the treatment.
There is a liner blank supplier in Chesterfield in the UK, but you really need a North American supplier for yours. They are less thasn 1/8" thick, the bedford ones were about 3/32" wall, I still have one somewhere, but too small I think for a 6/1.
Peter
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Sleeving a cylinder is common as the day is long. Sleeves come in every size, length, ID, OD, etc.
The proper way to do it is to bore down to about 3/8" of the bottom and leave a step there. You only need .001" to .003" press fit. Drive the new sleeve in. Cut the top off flush with the original surface, done deal.
The sleeve cannot move down because of the step. It cannot go up because it is against the head. This is called "trapping" the sleeve.
Wags
Also, tons of materials. 3/32 is a common thickness. Chromoly sleeves are usually thinner.
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Welcome aboard wags!!
I see you have registered about a week ago. And I see you are a machinist.
Nice to have someone here that is experienced in that field and will admit it.
What part of the world are you from? I am a farmer from Minnesota USA.
Billswan
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I am from Waterloo, IL. It is outside of St. Louis, MO about 35 miles (and across the river).
I have been building engines for 20+ years. Not listers, but the engine does not know what it is. LOL
More than happy to help anyone out I can.
Wags
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Good info coming through here, thanks !
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I am having a cylinder sleeve replaced in an original lister block. You can see from the pictures that they cylinder had been full of water (and Ice). The sleeve and cylinder have some pretty large vertical cracks, not sure how the new sleeve is going to work out, but I am going to give it a try. The new replacement sleeve is manufactured by Melling of Maquoketa, Iowa.
(http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=4525&g2_serialNumber=1)
Before...
(http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=4527&g2_serialNumber=1)
Bottom of cylinder and sleeve
(http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=4529&g2_serialNumber=1)
Top of cylinder closeup
(http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=4531&g2_serialNumber=1)
Top of cyliner with sleeve
(http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=4533&g2_serialNumber=1)
Cylinder and new replacement sleeve.
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Picked up the completed sleeved cylinder on Saturday......
Removing old sleeve, bore, hone, new sleeve and all included labor $146.32 US Dollars.
(http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=4541&g2_serialNumber=1)
Cylinder Top
(http://listerenginegallery.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=4543&g2_serialNumber=1)
Cylinder Bottom
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Looks like a good job. Is the metal Chrome or iron. If chrome you will need iron rings, if iron you will need chrome rings, never the same or it won't break in.
You probably already know this , but the newbies might not. ;D
Stan