Lister Engine Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: wrightkiller on December 15, 2006, 11:07:51 PM
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http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=1225126030810713709&q=lister&hl=en
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Hi I think the squeal sound was dry seals?
Also a good example of why not to start one not tied down properly. If the first ignition was any harder it would have layed over and ran around the shop on the flywheels. ::)
Dennis
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FWIW, one thing I have never seen with these engines is any way to get oil up past the TRBs to lube the seal. The seal sits at the end of a tapered chamber 3" behind the TRBs and never gets oil. Before first startup it would be a good idea to take a cotton swab (Q-Tip or equivalent) dipped in oil and smear oil between the shaft and seal from the outside.
It probably don't make no nevermind because the seal will wear to the point where it is just touching the shaft and then stop there.
I agree that the squeal was probably the oil seals. [edit: Definitely the seals. Despite what you may have heard at the zoo, seals don't always bark. Some kinds of seals squeal.]
Quinn
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Runs pretty smooth on that crate bottem. Maybe I shouldn't have burnt mine. Might be the hot set up. Bill
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Narrow base, top heavy engine, and half his body in the line of fire at startup if it goes over. Made me flinch to watch it.
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Are we watching a new, unexamined just add oil and fuel out of the crate, Indian Listeroid engine destroy itself internally here? :o
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Some people put a lot of faith in Lovson....
Peter has a few Lovsons, his engine of choice he says...
http://turneffecoconut.com/making.html
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Oh . . . maybe THAT was what that squeal was. :'(
Quinn
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Now I don't feel bad building a wood base using 6"x6" beams with cross pieces of the same size for Penelope ;D
Stan
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Now I don't feel bad building a wood base using 6"x6" beams with cross pieces of the same size for Penelope ;D
Stan
Stan,
In regards to your beams. What kind of wood are they? Reason I ask is I recently threw together a temporary test base for my new JD175A diesel and a big 2 kW Koehler 4 pole alternator with built in starter motor feature. This package sits on a concrete floor on heavy duty sized, medium duty rubber wheel 1 inch by 4 inch wheeled straight and swivel casters. The straight casters are on the engine end. BTW, it stays put on the floor (no desire to explore the room) without wheel locks and transfers no vibration to the floor. My maple beams are mill cuttings out of the center area of a big tree and were cheap. Hard as nails that maple, very heavy (dense) and super strong! My wood rails are about 7 thick by 8- 9 inches wide. I have four, 3/8 inch lag bolts holding the engine into these beams with 2 inches of thread in the wood. My engine is slowliy loosening these bolts. They are not unscrewing, the wood is being compacted on the compression (top side of the threads).
Because of this I advise, whatever wood you have used. put a bolt or all-thread rod completely through the wood and use large flat washers, locks and nuts on the opposite side of the engine.
I should add that after about 20 run hours so far and a few tightenings my loosening situation seems to have almost stabilized, but I don`t think it will completely, hence my strong recommendation here.
.
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I have a friend going to cut me some Larch, which is quite hard. And yes, I plan to cut some 1/4" plate about 2" square with a hole in the center for the bolt and then weld the bolt head to these square pieces of plate. I'll then mortise the 2" square holes in the bottom of the wood beam arrangement and drill a couple of small holes in the plate to allow it to be screwed in place (just to hold it when I turn the whole danged thing over). The bolts will not only hod the engine in place but also serve to hold the timber "frame" together also.
Stan
btw...this doesn't preclude bolting the whole wooden frame to the appropriately sized (I wonder what size that should be ;) ) concrete block.
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I have a friend going to cut me some Larch, which is quite hard. And yes, I plan to cut some 1/4" plate about 2" square with a hole in the center for the bolt and then weld the bolt head to these square pieces of plate. I'll then mortise the 2" square holes in the bottom of the wood beam arrangement and drill a couple of small holes in the plate to allow it to be screwed in place (just to hold it when I turn the whole danged thing over). The bolts will not only hod the engine in place but also serve to hold the timber "frame" together also.
Stan
btw...this doesn't preclude bolting the whole wooden frame to the appropriately sized (I wonder what size that should be ;) ) concrete block.
Stan.
That sounds like it shud work very well. I like the 2x2 plates welded to the bolts idea vey much. All-thread rod would work here fine as well and in 5/8 inch ciameter, strength will not be an issue.
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And be a lot cheaper than bolts. From another thread I have learned you don't want the very hard bolts as they don't "give" enough to allow the bottom end to stay straight. I don't think this will be a factor when bolting it to wood anyway. Spent an hour trying to clean out the sump today, used a couple of dozen rags, lots of varsol, got black from head to foot and ended up with it still "not clean". This is going to take the most time I've spent on anything yet!!!
Stan
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Narrow base, top heavy engine, and half his body in the line of fire at startup if it goes over. Made me flinch to watch it.
Me too. Cranks have been known to fight back as well.
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That's almost as scary as watching tire guys sealing tubeless earthmoving tires with starting fluid and a match!! :o
That's NOT the way to start a new engine!!!
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I wonder if he knows the air cleaner is upside down :P