KIT ENGINE, First impressions--

[mobile_bob]

you would have to change the piston as well, would you not?

bob g

[Patch]

Received my kit from Joel last week. My first experience with lister type engines.
https://home.comcast.net/~jtfri/pics/Lister/index.html

Weighed the two flywheels on a digital bathroom scale:
wheel A: 142 pounds no drill holes
wheel B: 141 pounds with one drill hole

On the web page of one of the manufacturers:
http://www.poweranand.com/diesel_engine.htm

there are two small thumbnails of what looks like balancing a flywheel:
http://www.poweranand.com/images/Img_0378.jpg
and drilling the flywheel
http://www.poweranand.com/IMAGES/100_0033.jpg

HTH
John

[xyzer]

Patch,
Good pics....I have a kit on the way from Joel....
In the posted pic http://www.poweranand.com/images/Img_0378.jpg (good find!!)
If you look real close you can see the standard weight they use to represent 1/2 the crankshaft bobweight....it is the red weight near the rim of the flywheel on a shaft mounted to the main shaft . That way they can balance each flywheel without using the actual crankshaft. It will introduce some error because they really don't know what the rotating and reciprocating mass actually weights. It will vary with the different rod, pistons that we end up with.....but a big improvement! Gee if I had a known balanced flywheel, and I made up what they had I could balance a Lister flywheel without the crankshaft!
Dave

[slowspeed1953]

you would have to change the piston as well, would you not?

bob g

Yep!

Peace&Love , Darren

[Doug]

I don't know whats involved Bob, but if they share a common rod and stroke some combination should be possible.
I can't fathom why no one has tried to order a GM-90 bottom end in a CS type. Its kind of pointless to get an oil pump in a standard CS clone with TRBs because you don't need it where it oilos and it doesn't oil the crank pin at all!

The again why do people order the CCV valve? its of little use when you consider that Utterpower's inovative CS plug glow plug adapter works better than the CCV valve ever did ( from what pople say )

Doug

[MeanListerGreen]

Dont mean to get off topic, but what are those kits selling for?

[sid]

the ccv valve really works good// mine has one and it is very easy to start and run// I started my friends gm 90 with out one and it was slow to start and slow to pick up speed/ took a lot longer to smooth out// never started one with a glow plug but the ccv works for me/ i use mine as power unit to power different piece of equipment and do not have 12 volt power for the glow plug available at times //sid

[Doug]

Yes I see your point Sid in that case the CCV is your only real option, but if you have 12 volt and I''d sure look hard at the glow plug. I still need to hoble together some sort of preheat for that Petter. this is oing o be an interesting winter....

Doug

[slowspeed1953]

I don't know whats involved Bob, but if they share a common rod and stroke some combination should be possible.
I can't fathom why no one has tried to order a GM-90 bottom end in a CS type. Its kind of pointless to get an oil pump in a standard CS clone with TRBs because you don't need it where it oilos and it doesn't oil the crank pin at all!

The again why do people order the CCV valve? its of little use when you consider that Utterpower's inovative CS plug glow plug adapter works better than the CCV valve ever did ( from what pople say )

Doug

Hey Doug,
The stroke is the same but Im still unsure about the rod length. My main concern is that the GM-90's dont come with spoked flywheels which for me is a must have. I guess Ill just have to order it with the spoked flywheels and machine off the counter balance weight.

The cold start valve is perfect for my application as I plan to turbocharge a 6/1. When the engine is cold and not loaded Ill start with the cs valve in aiding start up then once Im ready to load it I can unscrew the valve lowering the compression to a more boost friendly ratio.

Peace&Love , Darren

[Twinscrew]

My aplogies to the OP for the hijack.

The cold start valve is perfect for my application as I plan to turbocharge a 6/1

Darren, I commend your ambition, man, I really do. However, turbos typically don't work well, if at all, on single cylinder engines, especially at slow speeds. Turbos even have a lot of difficulty on twins. The problem is the infrequent exhaust pulses. Turbos work best with many frequent pulses. A 12 cylinder engine at 10,000 rpm would be much more ideal than a single cylinder engine at 650 rpm. That's an extreme example, but it illustrates my point. A supercharger doesn't care about exhaust pulses and may be a more feasible way to get the boost that you're after. Something to consider.

[aqmxv]

the ccv valve really works good// mine has one and it is very easy to start and run// I started my friends gm 90 with out one and it was slow to start and slow to pick up speed/ took a lot longer to smooth out// never started one with a glow plug but the ccv works for me/ i use mine as power unit to power different piece of equipment and do not have 12 volt power for the glow plug available at times //sid

One thing my 6/1 doesn't have is the change-over valve.  I just have a big square plug there.  I'm thinking that I might want to set it up more like an original 6/1 with the valve so that the engine will run efficiently making 3 HP like it does at 6 HP.  I haven't had the plug out of the head yet, so am only assuming that everything is fully machined, but can the valve parts be gotten?  Any idea what they'd cost?

[slowspeed1953]

My aplogies to the OP for the hijack.

The cold start valve is perfect for my application as I plan to turbocharge a 6/1

Darren, I commend your ambition, man, I really do. However, turbos typically don't work well, if at all, on single cylinder engines, especially at slow speeds. Turbos even have a lot of difficulty on twins. The problem is the infrequent exhaust pulses. Turbos work best with many frequent pulses. A 12 cylinder engine at 10,000 rpm would be much more ideal than a single cylinder engine at 650 rpm. That's an extreme example, but it illustrates my point. A supercharger doesn't care about exhaust pulses and may be a more feasible way to get the boost that you're after. Something to consider.

Twinscrew sounds like you have some knowlage of mis-sized turbochargers! You might like the toyota sc12's or sc14's 1200 and 1400cc superchargers there not that efficient as they are only of the twin lobe design. The eaton m45 750cc supercharger may suite your application a little better as it is of the three lobe design and is a little more efficient only consuming 5hp to make decernable boost. Na Ive got it, the kenne bell! It goes with your screen name as its a twin screw but alas I think the smallest unit they have is 1330cc's kinda big I think for a 6/1.

A 6/1 lister spinning at 650 rpm is creating 5.41 exhaust pluses per second I think the super tiny IHI rhfb4 that I have planned will work pretty good without consuming any crankshaft horsepower but if I have any issues I with a lineiar boost curve Ill fab up a exhaust accumulator before the turbine housing.

Good looking out brother!

Peace&Love , Darren

[dieselhead]

 I have a Vidhata that shakes real bad, it is a 10/1 DI, with a ring gear and starter motor.  It is fine at lower rpm's (200 rpm ?) but at the slowest ajustmented rpm, it shakes and is lifing the 5" concrete pad.  It has bolt on crankshaft counter weights (6lbs, 5.5 oz each).  The injection side flywheel inside rim is machined at angle, not 90 degree square like the other side flywheel to clear the starter motor. 

Both flywheels have runout on the outside of the rim (belt driving surface) of .120" & the center hubs are about the same.  With all this runout, I think the crankshaft hole is not concenrtic & may need to machine off the runout. 

 I also found sand on underside of the drain plug square box area, look out for tis area, very hard to get to or see.  I bought mine from Eric at Rocky mountain power solutions.  He thinks the crankshaft counter weights are maybe for the cast iron pistons & is too heavy for my alum. piston.   Any sugestions, need help.

                           Thanks ,  Jeff in Colorado

[hotater]

Wow!   Sounds like a problem.

First thing is this.    WITHOUT the engine running, how much run-out do the flywheels have?  If it's more than .015 or so the flywheels are not machined  correctly and need to be replaced.

More than 12 pounds of counterweight *seems* way too much, but that's an area with a bunch of math and mostly unexplored by me.

My FuKing is out there now jiggling a concrete slab up and down by .050", but the flywheels run true within .005".

[xyzer]

Jeff,
Is your Vidhata 10/1 internialy balanced? I have balanced 2 6/1 engines so far.....one Vidhata and one Powersolutions. My Vidhata took 1.2#'s/flywheel the powersoulutions took much less. 6#'s seems a bit extreme! I don't like the sound of your runnout. Mine had no runnout! The casting was off from the machined surfaces but they all ran true when mounted. .120" is extreme in my book. I can tell you from experiance those flywheels are made of some tough shit! Bring your carbide if you are going to re-machine!
Dave