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Author Topic: heads off the 6/1, should do gaskets, right?  (Read 1193 times)

glort

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Re: heads off the 6/1, should do gaskets, right?
« Reply #30 on: June 01, 2019, 04:52:56 AM »
I modified to run as a pseudo diesel on methanol using Mark Cherry's Smartplug invention.
 

Did they work Bruce?

I looked up the website but it's more non functioning than working.
Can't find any new info on the things in the last year so I guess they are Kaput now.

I always did want to be able to reliably run a petrol engine, mainly a 2 stroke on Diesel or Veg.

BruceM

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Re: heads off the 6/1, should do gaskets, right?
« Reply #31 on: June 01, 2019, 05:51:26 AM »
Yes, Mark Cherry was legit, he just couldn't sell his idea to the automotive industry. He had a contract with Darpa as part of the "one fuel forward" research program.  My version of his original patent worked fine in my Honda 4cy outboard running methanol. I only had to apply current for starting. Increasing compression and getting enough fuel flow (double the normal gasoline flow rate) from the carb were challenging, but it did work quite well.

In his later versions Mark Cherry was varying the current to the platinum element to adjust ignition timing. 

I don't know if it's possible to run a gas engine on oil using his method.  I know he had success with aqueous fuels (less refined alcohol), with the benefit for very low NOX due to all the water and the lower combustion temps.  Again, no interest from industry.


veggie

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Re: heads off the 6/1, should do gaskets, right?
« Reply #32 on: June 20, 2019, 05:40:17 PM »
tyssniffen,

When you re-assemble the head, consider spraying the head gasket on both sides with Permatex Copper Gasket coating.
Its adds additional sealing for the water passage ports.
Here's how I did mine ...
- 6/1 GM90 Listeroid - Delco 33si Alternator
- Changfa R175 - Lease/Neville Alternator
- Kubota Z482 - 4kw
- JiangDong R165 Air cooled - 2 kw

BruceM

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Re: heads off the 6/1, should do gaskets, right?
« Reply #33 on: June 20, 2019, 06:09:30 PM »
+1 I've used the same copper spray when reusing head gaskets.  It does work.

Water passage sealing is a big problem for Listeroids with liners, with a protruding lip. Best to address head and cylinder top flatness, and lip protrusion if you're having problems with leaks. The protrusion of the liner causes concave warping of the head, which causes insufficient pressure at coolant passages.

The stock Rajkot copper/asbestos gaskets with asbestos soaked with Permatex aviation gasket sealer is the best for the bad head/liner protrusion situation; I tried everything before finally fixing the problem. Copper spray does also help seal the water passages. Combined it was still only a 400 hour solution before leaks.

The best fix is to reduce the protrusion to under 0.005 inches (5 mils) and flatten the head and cylinder top.  I used the classic farmer fix- sandpaper with spray contact cement on plate glass on non-slip foam shelf liner on cast iron saw top. 

Lots of elbow grease to flatten the concave head but it's doable.  A file and careful work for the liner protrusion prevents another concavity.




mikenash

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Re: heads off the 6/1, should do gaskets, right?
« Reply #34 on: June 20, 2019, 07:35:31 PM »
+1 I've used the same copper spray when reusing head gaskets.  It does work.

Water passage sealing is a big problem for Listeroids with liners, with a protruding lip. Best to address head and cylinder top flatness, and lip protrusion if you're having problems with leaks. The protrusion of the liner causes concave warping of the head, which causes insufficient pressure at coolant passages.

The stock Rajkot copper/asbestos gaskets with asbestos soaked with Permatex aviation gasket sealer is the best for the bad head/liner protrusion situation; I tried everything before finally fixing the problem. Copper spray does also help seal the water passages. Combined it was still only a 400 hour solution before leaks.

The best fix is to reduce the protrusion to under 0.005 inches (5 mils) and flatten the head and cylinder top.  I used the classic farmer fix- sandpaper with spray contact cement on plate glass on non-slip foam shelf liner on cast iron saw top. 

Lots of elbow grease to flatten the concave head but it's doable.  A file and careful work for the liner protrusion prevents another concavity.

Hi Bruce and others

I have just been reading up on this as I'm interested in head and base gasket sealing at the moment

I would guess in a metric environment that liner protrusion is more like a tenth of a millimetre?  If it's five thou?

Cheers


BruceM

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Re: heads off the 6/1, should do gaskets, right?
« Reply #35 on: June 21, 2019, 01:18:46 AM »
6 mils or 0.006 inches is the thickness of a standard sheet of copy paper. 
I'd shoot for 0.1 millimeter = 4 mils or a shade under.  More protrusion just means more leaks at 200 hrs+.

What I used was a feeler gauge next to the lip, and then ran my fingernail back and forth to determine if I was down to the feeler height yet. 

One thing to check carefully is that the cylinder liner isn't being held up by some sloppy machining of the liner or cylinder.  You may be able to rectify that with some careful dremel work. If you are having the machine shop do it properly, and the cylinder looks good, then they will cut the shoulder of the liner.  I used a file to take down the protrusion, with a feeler gauge to test regularly all around and a lot of patience. I smoothed it with a disc sander.

No worries at all for the Lister clones or originals- they have no liner thus no protrusion.