Sorry Guys for the delay…
Bruce, on ELF…
I guess I need to read up on that. I've heard of the problem before but never investigated it. I'm very health conscious so it does worry me, although I'm not so sure what I could do about it. Here, we are required to have the neutral and ground bonded at the entrance panel. Even if I were to remove that bond the neutral is grounded out on the street.
I really don't want to remove the lightning system. I put a lot of effort into installing it, with quite a bit of overkill, including using the heavier cable. I bonded the water pipes in several locations and even the heating system pipes. It was tested a couple years ago when, according to a neighbor, the rod on my chimney was hit.
Speaking of fields, I found that parking my car under a high tension line (I estimate over 100KV by counting the disk insulators) caused it to become charged. I assume this was due to capacitance coupling. This line has the three phases stacked one above the other. I assume this causes the field from the lowest phase to be stronger at ground level than the others and thus not "cancelled".
I got a good buzz off the painted surfaces of the car and an uncomfortable, sustained tingle off an unpainted bolt head on the door striker. I repeated the experiment with a shopping cart and could feel a good buzz on that as well (I had been shopping).
I no longer park under those lines. I don't think it could be good for all the computers in the car. I bet being fairly well grounded had something to do with feeling the tingle (no shoes) and most normal people would never be the wiser.
Mike, on belt tracking…
After a lot of measuring and squaring (none of which worked) I ended up skewing the generator a bit at a time until I "caught" the belt where it was "comfortable" being. I assume the generator shaft and the crankshaft are fairly parallel at this point.
I used a Jeep jack (mechanical bottle jack) between the flywheel and the sheave to adjust the tension in an incremental way - much better than a crow bar or a 2X4.
I bought an adjustable motor mount, a Dayton 2M513 (as a member here had suggested - Thank You). Strangely, it came by motor freight, just like the other guy's did. This has front and rear independent adjusting screws which should make the alignment a lot easier. I'll use it when I do the concrete block.
XYZER, on the three points…
This was something I learned from working on my old Ford Model T. Pretty much every major component in that car is mounted by three points. A genius solution to the bad roads of the day. Three points prevented uneven stresses in things like the radiator and gas tank - even as the car twisted and flexed over the road. The dock bumpers were from McMaster Carr Supply and were pretty inexpensive. They call them "vehicle mount bumpers".
-John (Boston)