How to / DIY > Engines
Bleeding fuel system Lister HA 4
cobbadog:
Good news that it is sorted out for you. With my old single cylinder CD 8hp engine I too forgot to turn the fuel tap on and it got air in the system. I was lucky in the fact that this engine has a decompression lever which also can be engaged for high or low compression running so I simply cracked the fuel line at the injector and slowly hand cranked the engine over until no air came out. Tighten it up and 3 more swings and drop the lever and away it went.
Sometimes it is a case of starting at the fuel tank and work your way along the fuel system and it should be all good. The SR2 in our dumpy was a simple air bleed after replacing the fuel filter as the fuel tank sits above the engine. It is almost a self bleed using gravity to remove the air. As I never turned the engine over once I had the old filter out the fuel line to the racks and injectors was full of fuel and the very small amount of air there was not noticed when it was re started.
Rodalco:
--- Quote from: cobbadog on November 19, 2018, 04:58:58 AM ---Good news that it is sorted out for you. With my old single cylinder CD 8hp engine I too forgot to turn the fuel tap on and it got air in the system. I was lucky in the fact that this engine has a decompression lever which also can be engaged for high or low compression running so I simply cracked the fuel line at the injector and slowly hand cranked the engine over until no air came out. Tighten it up and 3 more swings and drop the lever and away it went.
Sometimes it is a case of starting at the fuel tank and work your way along the fuel system and it should be all good. The SR2 in our dumpy was a simple air bleed after replacing the fuel filter as the fuel tank sits above the engine. It is almost a self bleed using gravity to remove the air. As I never turned the engine over once I had the old filter out the fuel line to the racks and injectors was full of fuel and the very small amount of air there was not noticed when it was re started.
--- End quote ---
Thanks for your reply and sharing your experience.
I spoke to a couple of friends I know and they are diesel experienced with truck engines.
Often there is no need for disconnecting the high pressure fuel lines.
Disconnecting them can cause leaks and the risk of breaking connections.
On new type diesel engines often the whole HP fuel assembly has to be replaced when loosened at the injectors.
As long the fuel is bleed through the system to the fuel pump rack, the last bit of air will get displaced when the lines fill up with diesel.
Rodalco:
https://youtu.be/rl9XTZ-6tKQ
In above link I have documented the process, even the run and last seconds before I ran out of diesel.
hope it helps other members out.
There is an index in the video text
I was planning to do a load test but had an airlock in the temporary fuel line, and the Lister HA4 engine stalled.
I was doing too many things at the same time and forgot to check that the fuel was flowing properly during a 5 kW load test.
An air lock got in the fuel pump and I had to purge/bleed the fuel filter and the fuel pump.
As I had not done this before, had to resort to the internet, and I did not want to crack the high pressure fuel lines to the injectors as that is not needed IMO, and often more problems are created with leaks on the HP side of the pump. As long there is fuel above the eye of the fuel pump, the pump will disperse the air out of the HP lines.
0:14 Start and running out of fuel
0:46 Start attempt 1
1:03 Start attempt 2 (bleed fuel filter only)
1:20 Start attempt 3 showing pinion gear
1:40 Start attempt 4 bleed one side of the fuel pump.(engine is trying to catch)
2:00 showing part of fuel bleeding process.
2:45 Start attempt 5 engine firing up and stopping (timed out)
3:10 Start attempt 6 success.
3:47 Email 3Ø Meter with 5 kW load on it. (charging voltage) engine running well.
5:20 heater elements
5:32 shutdown
5:43 showing complete purging process (hope it helps others)
mike90045:
I know my hatz has self-bleeding lines, but it's a few years newer than the 6/1's, which won't ever purge that last teaspoon of air, till you crack the injector pipe.
cobbadog:
I agree about cracking the injector lines to rid the air. On the older engines they are a taper fit to seal and will reseal with no issues. Even cracking them at the injector itself will help it a lot.
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