Glort
I'm of the opinion that your reply is rude, indeed, as you suspected, but then, you didn't care.
Your remark about the level of embarrassment is way out of line. You fill in for others too quickly. I'm very embarrassed. Still, I want to be honest.
To answer to your concern about the injectors.
This is how I got the engine. Understanding that three holes may deliver fuel different than four holes, I measured the delivered fuel of each, by letting turn on the start engine, and let the fuel be spit into two of those thin laboratory glasses, that make measuring liquids easier. I did that over and over again, and adjusted the delivery of the two fuel pumps according to it.
Pistons not reaching the same height.
This is how I got the engine. One of the pistons rods is a fraction shorter than the other, as I had guessed it was. It has nothing to do with the bearings. The rods aren't exactly equal. Noticing the difference, I took the shims, that were there when I got the engine, away, there, and put them under the other cylinder, to equal the bump clearances, and with the cylinder head gaskest, that I cut from material especially made for cylinder head gaskets, that I only do not remember the name of, because I bought it years ago, from a shop for Classics and old timers, after which they were exactly right, according dieselgmans notes.
I've been endlessly measuring the bump clearance in all kind of ways, to get to the 1 mm, and I was happy to see the engine fire at the first attempt, the two cylinders responding the same way, with equal force, and the cylinders warming up equally, as never happened before.
Suspecting the pistons to be slightly different
I had been measuring the pistons sitting in the cylinders and came to the conclusion they've not exactly the same diameter. I had measured them at different spots. My main conclusion was: they're different.
Well, THEY ARE. But why?
Now that I took the cylinders and pistons all off, again, and slide the pistons through the cylinders (WITHOUT THE RINGS), one immediately feels a difference. Piston 1 has to be pushed, doesn't like to go through, but will with a continuous push. Piston 2 slides through easily.
For Piston one, I can not imagine it expanding a bit through heat and then still going through. It seems to have its maximum width already.
Now I am aware there could be a reason for piston 1: it's damaged by the seizing. May be it got deformed, but....
But let me tell you:
BEFORE ANY TEST RUN a POSSIBLE PROBLEM WAS NOTICED by me, with THAT PISTON!
When I put the new pistons in the very first time, when I reassembled the pistons and cylinders I noticed getting piston 1 into the cylinder was more difficult than piston 2. And I told the engine revision garage right away. When turning the flywheel, piston 1 would lift the heavy cylinder up. Remember, they said it was "not unusual". They had said this happens sometimes when they assemble engines and they didn't think much of it. They had actually said sometimes force is needed to get a piston in, while another pitons easily slides in into the cylinder next to it. For me THEY were the specialists that I thought I had to trust, for them doing this work day in day out.
I think my suspicion was more right than their denial.
Blame?
I have already written about this, but when I called them about the problem of the broken piston, it was THEM, the specialists, telling me what they could do for me: bring the pistons, and the cylinders and we have a look.
I went there. They said: We'll measure the things, check things out, and you pay 40 euro for that and our advise.
When I came back after a few days they presented me with their idea: because of the scratches in the cylinder wall, we'll have to hone them. We'll search for new, slightly bigger pistons.
And when they found the piston supply shop, they let me know the price for the pistons, the shipping and the honing, and I said OK and then they went to do their specialists thing.
They didn't ask for measures. They gave me the impression they knew what to do and how to do it. Their workplace is a hall full of engines they are fixing (I hope). I earlier had good experience with them.
I don't know how they decided about the measures for the honing, how deep to go, how much the clearance should be. They seemed to know what they were doing!
Did they supply the rings? Yes, they came with the pistons they had ordered.
No, the ring gaps I did not put in the wrong positions. I could figure out all by myself, what was the logical thing to do, there.
If new honing clearly has to be done, then I'll be ready to pay for it again, when they think they have done it right the first time, even when it doesn't seem to have the right clearance.
Glort, thanks for your advises, so far.
You added a whole list of things to check. I have that list already. It's all in the Lister LD manual that I have mentioned a few times.
You forgot one thing: the fuel. That I should put diesel in.
BTW, the tank was loaded with red diesel, when I got the boat. I brought it away. I had to clean the tank anyway. And the fuel pipe. And the filters.