Author Topic: TS3 Cylinder Head Refit  (Read 399 times)

ListerTS3

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TS3 Cylinder Head Refit
« on: August 07, 2018, 10:51:36 AM »
Folks,
First post on the forum & am delighted to find so much good stuff on it. I am in the process of rebuilding my TS3 Lister that is used on a dumper. The engine was tired & poor compression made me decide to give it an overhaul. So I have stripped it down, bought new barrels, pistons & cylinder head valves. Which leads to my question.

I have fitted one piston & barrell & when sliding down the cylinder head, the head would only go through the long posts about 3/4 in, the posts seem to be caught on the point where the 'circular disc' is, if I look down I can see the holes are not straight through, it seem to have a taper or kink where the item marked is. Is that feature a locking cam or something ? I was able to slide them up months ago & didn't take any notice of that until today.

Any ideas why there is a issue here ? Would appreciate any help.

listard-jp2

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Re: TS3 Cylinder Head Refit
« Reply #1 on: August 07, 2018, 07:26:35 PM »
A common problem on all of the flat top Lister engines, caused by not replacing the rocker stub shafts in the exactly the same position as you removed them. The trick is to pull them out of the cylinder head just enough to be able to remove the rocker arms, then giving you sufficient access to be able to work on the valves and guides.

This is caused by having two of the cylinder head studs passing right through the rocker stub shafts, hence correct alignment prior to refitting them is essential, otherwise you get a problem when you try and refit the cylinder head exactly as you describe.

Your only option is to pull the rocker stub shafts out again and have another go, what further complicates this task is that the inlet rocker shaft is not perpendicular to the side of the cylinder head (unlike the exhaust), hence making removal and replacement even more challenging.



ListerTS3

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Re: TS3 Cylinder Head Refit
« Reply #2 on: August 07, 2018, 09:07:11 PM »
Thanks for that jp2. I sent the heads away for new valves and that way they came back. How hard is it to realign that way ?

ListerTS3

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Re: TS3 Cylinder Head Refit
« Reply #3 on: August 07, 2018, 09:41:31 PM »
How do i get shaft off? Is it a case of screwing in a bolt, catching bolt in vice and put a hammer to head or is there a more subtle way?

Willw

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Re: TS3 Cylinder Head Refit
« Reply #4 on: August 07, 2018, 10:51:18 PM »
Listard-jp2 is correct. These shafts fit very snug. A slide-hammer attached to a bolt screwed into the shaft is the easiest method that I found, and I believe the method recommended in the shop manual.

I would try backing them out until just a millimeter or two remained, and push a stout screwdriver through the hole in the shaft to turn the shaft into position.
You are close already, so make some guide marks before you start to help you get it aligned properly. A bit of heat might help.

Also, patience and slow careful tapping is required to get the shaft back through the rocker arm. At the first sign of binding you can sometimes just pry the rocker arm into position with a screwdriver if you haven't jammed it too hard by hitting the shaft too forcefully.

Lister Lt1's have the same arrangement, I completed the head work on my latest one yesterday and it is up and running today. You can do it :)

listard-jp2

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Re: TS3 Cylinder Head Refit
« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2018, 06:41:47 PM »
/\ Absolutely agree with everything said above, and would only add that the rocker shaft stubs can also be removed using a long set screw (bolt threaded all the way down and a deep socket, only problem with this is that it does not work to well on the inlet rocker stub shaft for reasons I previously stated.

When I was regularly repairing these engines (on Thwaites 3 tonne dumper trucks). I had a short length of pipe cut and filed to the correct angle for the inlet rocker stub and a pipe socket for the exhaust stub, when combined with the right length of setscrew and a plate with a hole through it to match, it used to work a treat.

The company I worked for at the time was so mean with the new parts budget, when the rocker stub shafts were badly worn on the underside, they were not to be replaced, but just turned through 180 degrees and refitted.

ListerTS3

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Re: TS3 Cylinder Head Refit
« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2018, 12:19:37 PM »
Thanks Men, got the shafts out & re-aligned via the threaded bar & oversized socked approach. By Joe there were well tight, a slow job. Anyhow, next question, the book says during refit the leaded wire used to measure the internal gap from piston to head should be 0.813-0.889 mm. This is measured by putting a piece of solder wire there & measuring after 2 revolutions.

If I dont use any gasket or shims I get a lead thickness of 0.8mm, is the figure in manual correct ?

During stripdown there was gaskets & shims present on all pistons, without shims & gaskets isn't the valve going to hit piston ?

Is the wire flattened by the piston against the valve or piston against the head ? I don't have the valve pushrods fitted to rockers during my measurements.

_______________
Guys just to follow up on this, I have it sorted, I mis-read the intention of the manual, the solder wire is not placed at either end of the gudgeon pin end sides, it is placed 90deg opposite (put one of camshaft side, put other on exhaust manifold side, that way the pistons do not interfere with the wire during its compression. That way the gap is measured from piston top face to cylinder head face (google bump clearance). The gap as stated in manual IS correct. Also I used 0.5mm solder wire wrapped to look like a coil spring. Got consistent results with it.

I left my original questions there in case some other member comes with the same query. I'm learning all the time on the re-build
« Last Edit: August 11, 2018, 03:39:11 PM by ListerTS3 »