Lister D possible carb woes ? (newbie)

[evil len]

Hello all !

First time Lister owner, after my mate's just bought me a Type D off a well known auction site for my 50th birthday :-)

Got a problem I need your help with please ... namely, it doesn't run !  It's supposed to, and there's a video of it running, but I can't get the darned thing to work ... and when my mate went to pick it up, the owner also couldn't get it to work (blamed it on draining the fuel tank for transport).

I've done all the usual pre-start oiling etc, and I've also bought a manual which is of no use.  The spark is big, fat, strong and white, and there appears to be good compression.  The spark plug looks good.  Every now and then I'll get a single 'chuff' as it fires once.  I've read it could be the timing, but working on the presumption it's supposed to be a runner, I'm going to guess it's not that (?)  Fresh petrol too.

So I'm reasonably convinced it's the carb - backed by the point that the large knurled knob (sorry, not sure of the proper term, in car carb terms it would be the needle I guess) had both its 'lock' screws almost all the way out, so it freely spins from 'all the way in' to 'all the way out' ... so I'm not sure how far "in" or "out" it's supposed to be.

To get to my question ... how do you set up the carbs on these ?  In particular, the large knurled knob and the linkage from the governor.

On the positive side though, turning the engine over repeatedly is great for exercising the right arm !
Thank you
Len

[guest23837]

Did you tickle the carburettor when you attempted to start it? I'd take the carburettor apart and give it a good going over using carb or brake cleaner

[dieselspanner]

Stripe me, Glort,

Concise, germane, rock on with no mention of the BIL.........

Well done, nothing I'd fault there at all!

Cheers Stef

[38ac]

There were several types of fuels systems used over the years thus it is hard to give concise starting procedures until we know what you have.  That  being said a half turnoff the seat should get you to the point where it will at least fire. It seems like the D engines need a lot of fuel to fire but then immediately want less to keep running.  First make sure the fuel lines are not blocked and fuel is getting to the carb. Then this is how I start mine from cold. Needle one half turn out. Start cranking it over and with other hand cover the intake for one suction stroke so as to choke it and they are off and going. The needle ends up being about one quarter turn out when warmed up and running well.

[evil len]

Brilliant, thanks for the info folks.   That gives me several things to try tonight ... will report back !  (will also include pics, once I'm home).

Presume I can use WD40 for the spray.

[guest23837]

Brilliant, thanks for the info folks.   That gives me several things to try tonight ... will report back !  (will also include pics, once I'm home).

Presume I can use WD40 for the spray.

WD 40 isn't great as a starting fluid, easy start is harsh, carb or brake cleaner is a bit better and a drop of petrol as Glort says can do the trick

[evil len]

Okay, so some success. 

I managed to get it to fire and run for a few seconds (see video) by heating the spark plug in the oven and spraying brake cleaner direct into the cylinder.  As you can see from the video though, this doesn't last long, and then wouldn't restart.  Removing the plug and spraying again, wouldn't start a second time.

I'm
a) half turn off the seat
b) covering the intake for the first turn
c) plug doesn't appear soaked, appears clean

So next step is strip the carb I guess

(sorry video is turned through 90 degrees, not sure why it did that)

https://youtu.be/SEH_KPrPtYc

[guest23837]

Have you got a spare plug

[evil len]

Nope

[dieselspanner]

So ter mechanical side of the system works, it can only be fuel or spark that's failing, as you're squirting the fuel down it's neck, spark seems favorite.

Here's a post wot I wrote earlier (Sorry Ernie!) about getting around a failed mag that still has working points.

"You can use the points in the mag, a moped 6 volt coil and a 6 volt battery - like the ones in a road lamp - and she'll run fine.
Add a modern condenser and you've got a running engine for less than a tenner on Ebay. The battery will last ages.

You could go to 12 volts with the coil, add an old battery and drive small alternator from the scrappies and you've got a 12v dc generator"

Just keep at it, changing one thing at a time 'til you isolate the problem.

Cheers
Stef

[38ac]

 I would guess no fuel, cleaning the carb and checking flow takes lots less effort than much hand cranking

[evil len]

I've got the carb in bits now  :-) can't spot anything obvious yet (though I understand how the carb works a lot better now) ... keep posted !