My Lister SOM Web Page

[DaveW]

T19 -
    I recognized the color scheme, I have a bubba that has been a JD mech for these past 45 years.  To sooth the collectors if it is ever needed just remember that a clear coat overlay with metallic sparkle is not out of the question.  And this could help expand your job base if ever the Indians called for local paint touchups.  Never hurts to learn a new trade, especially in today's job market.  You could even take a note from Binnie and make it glow in the dark metallic sparkle.
    
Hotater -
    Are you going with a pressure system or just counting on the water level to close the loop?

[t19]

T19
I can't believe you've done so much in shuch a short time. You must have little elves working on it all night. When I first saw the picts off the truck I thought it was a basket case. It's amazing how well it all cleaned up & looks like new. Can't wait to hear it run. I bet you can't either. That's an impressive achievement in a few short weeks! Love the base. Wish someone would start moulding some copies for the Listeroid dept. Saw some on the Uk sites with side pannels attached to run off accessories from the fly wheels. Great job, binnie

Thanks.  Yes the base is impressive.  And well designed with a drip molding about 1.5 inches deep to catch spills.  That is just sooo kewl.

The hardest part was getting the decades of old oil off her.  I used Kerosene and a number of wire brushes, and lots of shop towels.  It was like an extra coat of paint!!!

I will be adding oil to her tomorow, and confirming the oil pump works, after cleaning.  If I get a fuel tank for her sorted, and the rad hooked up... I might be able to start her before the weekend.  I had three locals stop by tonight to check out my Lister,  My neighbour came over to see it and asked all sorts of question about noise ect.  I told her that  when I get it finished she will not be able to hear it run from the bottom of my driveway.  At least that is the plan and msn for me in building the shed next year.

Cheers

Andrew

[bitsnpieces1]

So you flick the DC light on, it causes a draw from the battery, which causes the battery to start turning the Genhead, and the solonoid is activated because of the draw.  Turn off the DC light, it kills the solonoid that turns off the fuel .  OK.  Does it matter what size of draw is there?  Also, what recharges the battery?  I take it the original box had a battery charger as well??

Cheers

  From my understanding:  When the system isn't generating yet,  a small DC voltage is applied to the load circuits.  When something is turned on it completes the dc circuit pulling in a relay.  The relay starts the crankup procedure for the engine.  When the engine fires and starts accellerating up to speed, the starting circutry is disconnected and the dc sensing voltage is disconnected.  When the engine and unloaded gen head reach speed, the now available AC is turned on to the load circuit.  And things start running. 
  When all of the load goes off the circutry detects the zero amp draw and starts the shut-down procedure.  First the AC is disconnected from the load lines.  The engine is then turned off [ignition off for gas, decompressor on, IP off for diesel].  When the engine has stopped turning (or really close) the DC voltage is reapplied to the load circuit for detection purposes. 
  While the engine is running and producing AC power it also is genning DC to recharge the starting/detecting batteries.

[t19]

Well I picked up the new machined parts for the rad hook up.  Will get the rad installed this weekend

Called about the Gen Head, will be ready next week

[binnie]

T19
Are you placing your radiator as traditional above the fly wheel on the engine proper,  or out side the engine room to limit the heat in the summer months? Just wondering what your ideas are in this regard. I am at the same stage of set up with a 12/2...
Nice post from Sid, I never really knew how the SOM worked. Seems like an amazing piece of machinery. Did you buy the instructions that were offered on ebay with Rick's purchase? Will be fun to see a whole little SOM section happening within our forum...Great comparisons first hand on Originals to the Listeroid section. 
How do you manage on the change over from 50hz to 60hz & English 220v to our 110/220...are their any rewiring concerns/adjustments that have to be made to this set up for it to work efficiently over here? Am a little puzzled. thanks binnie

[t19]

Hi Binnie
I just have to increase the RPM's to get the 60 Hz.  Guy had a copy of the manual on his web site which I downloaded and printed.  THANKS GUY!!!

The head is being cleaned, check and new wires and doghouse are being added.  Volts AC, Amp AC and HZ,  Later I want to add WATTS

I am using a  Dodge Caravan Rad that is mounted about 2 ft away from the engine, I want it to stay hot

I'm so close to getting her started I can tast it

[hotater]

I can feel your excitement...nothing like waking up a piece of iron!

you might have the pulley on the genhead turned smaller and keep the same RPM.  They sound SO good!!!

[t19]

had not thought of that, but it has the dual V belts might be hard to do

[hotater]

T-19---

You save a lot of power by going to a flat serp belt, but it sure kills the originality of it.

Is there room to run a serp belt.... in the double Vee area that's been turned down to the bottom of the Vees, but move the pulley enough to have the belt riding on the inner flat of the flywheel instead of the Vee area?  That would be nearly perfect, I think, in ratio to boost it to 60Hz. 

What does that do to voltage?

[t19]

Well the guy who is  overhauling the Genhead said he would get that sorted for me.  I'm not sure the machining down of the Original flywheel for a flat belt and the Gen head to match it would be worth the recovered loss, besides with twin V belt, it should more that cover any slippage issues.  And I think the twin belts look sexy

Damn I can't wait to get the head back and get it started up.... and hear it rumble again

[hotater]

T-19--

Just so we're not confused about my idea....I thought if the Vee grooves in the *genhead* flywheel were turned down and then that wheel moved on the shaft to line that new area up with a *plain* portion of the engine flywheel, that might make the ratio correct for the higher Hz.  To increase Hz the genhead pulley has to be made smaller, or the engine flywheel bigger, or a combination of the two.

With a big enough lathe dummy rings to fit the Vee grooves in the flywheel could be made with non-protruding fasteners to make a Vee grooved flywheel plain again....or they could be wound in wire, welded at the ends and body filler and paint would make the Vee grooves invisible, too.....or a sleeve shrunk on the OD of the flywheel would work, too.

You'll save a lot of energy by replacing the Vee belts with a flat serpentine.