Author Topic: Lister CS setup to make it`s own fuel  (Read 1571 times)

ajaffa1

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Re: Lister CS setup to make it`s own fuel
« Reply #15 on: February 23, 2018, 03:05:55 AM »
I wasn`t actually thinking of running poly as it wouldn`t dissolve in WVO unless it was mixed with some other hydro carbon. Might be very funny if it did, imagine all the drunks in Manly on a weekend buying potions of fried food in polystyrene packaging only to have it dissolve in their hands. Probably wouln

ajaffa1

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Re: Lister CS setup to make it`s own fuel
« Reply #16 on: February 23, 2018, 03:22:24 AM »
I`ve done it again, managed to post half way through typing.
I was trying to say that if the packaging did dissolve in vegetable oil it probably wouldn`t make that much difference as most of the food these drunk fellows buy ends up on the floor anyhow.

I`m definitely going to run water injection, I`m thinking along the lines of using an old carburettor jet mounted on the inlet manifold. If I could get the venturie effect to work properly it would only inject water when running. No danger of a cylinder full of water.

mike90045

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Re: Lister CS setup to make it`s own fuel
« Reply #17 on: February 23, 2018, 04:37:06 AM »
....I`m definitely going to run water injection, I`m thinking along the lines of using an old carburettor jet mounted on the inlet manifold. If I could get the venturie effect to work properly it would only inject water when running. No danger of a cylinder full of water.   

Use a plumbing U bend, so the intake air sucks the water up into the intake.   Or electrical conduit or something to make the bend, other than steel elbows and nipples

ajaffa1

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Re: Lister CS setup to make it`s own fuel
« Reply #18 on: March 06, 2018, 08:33:20 AM »
A question for Glort, how hot do I need to get WVO for the dissolved water to evaporate away? There is little point in running an engine that produces more fuel than it consumes unless you have another used for it. I am therefore thinking of running a setup with a 25ltr fuel tank that purifies 25ltr of fuel. The problem with this is that the 25ltr of coolant will soon become over temperature.
I have concluded that the pump that aerates the WVO should have a thermostat valve after it which would divert extra heat to some sort of oil cooler. I believe that regular thermostats tend to open at around 80 degrees centigrade, would that be a high enough temperature to dry WVO?

I have a cunning plan to mount this engine on a trailer so I could take it to a show or two but I also want it to produce 3 phase for the workshop. I am thinking of making a trailer out of 100mm box section which could be oil filled and provide the extra cooling required. For instance a 2m long trailer with four cross members 1m long would contain approximately 100lrs of oil and have a massive surface area which should prevent overheating on long runs. I could drive the generator head off one flywheel and the WVO circulation pump off the other. I believe I could even build a removable top for this trailer, which would allow me to show it but use it at home without having to build it in a shed. I could  mount a hydraulic ram on each corner of the trailer to jack it up and level it.

I`m probably mad, any thoughts please.
Bob

 

glort

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Re: Lister CS setup to make it`s own fuel
« Reply #19 on: March 06, 2018, 02:09:07 PM »
A question for Glort, how hot do I need to get WVO for the dissolved water to evaporate away?

If you are aerating it, you can do it at room temp, whatever that is at the time.  The hotter you get it, the faster the process... within reason.
I prefer to have the temp elevated as it makes the drying so much faster but you could, and I have literally 100 times, dried oil with nothing more than the temp rise the electric pump imparted to the oil which wasn't much.


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There is little point in running an engine that produces more fuel than it consumes unless you have another used for it. I am therefore thinking of running a setup with a 25ltr fuel tank that purifies 25ltr of fuel. The problem with this is that the 25ltr of coolant will soon become over temperature.


Hmm,  Myself, i'd tend to have a reserve, say 200L of oil and take the 25L or 50L actually as " Sippin" ( finished) fuel  in reserve and then top the processing drum up and run it till I needed it.
This will give you a good thermal reserve. It will mean the oil is really well ( over) filtered and if it is covered between runs, should be fairly dry.

Oil has a lot less thermal mass than water so 25L of oil would be something like 16L of water, IE, not much in this instance.

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I have concluded that the pump that aerates the WVO should have a thermostat valve after it which would divert extra heat to some sort of oil cooler. I believe that regular thermostats tend to open at around 80 degrees centigrade, would that be a high enough temperature to dry WVO?

More than enough to dry oil. that was my very upper, never exceed limit due to the hoses and pumps I was running on the processor.  you could dry 200L of oil in around 30 min if you had proper aeration and air circulation if you had a semi closed drum.

 I would go with simple electric control and do away with any plumbing I could.
As you are wanting to run a generator, I'd be using something like an electric fan or 2 off a car and have that controlled by a simple thermal switch which can be bought for less than 10 bux on fleabay.  Oil gets to temp, fans blow on drum, oil cools.  No external hoses for the oil to make soft and leak, no oil coolers to buy, plumb, get knocked, block with dirty oil etc.  In and out of drum, that's it. Everything is contained.
cheaper to buy a car fan and a thermo switch than all the plumbing hardware, hose and an oil cooler and you'll probably need a fan for it anyway as static air is pretty useless with an oil cooler.

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I have a cunning plan to mount this engine on a trailer so I could take it to a show or two but I also want it to produce 3 phase for the workshop. I am thinking of making a trailer out of 100mm box section which could be oil filled and provide the extra cooling required.

 Are you a gun welder able to make every joint water tight and make sure there will be no cracks at all in the future?
If so and you have the skill, could be OK. If you are a backyard welder like me, then it's not that easy.  You fill the thing with oil and discover there is a crack, you'll never get the weld to stick properly again! test with water first.

 
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I could drive the generator head off one flywheel and the WVO circulation pump off the other.

To me, that's more failure points first and more expense second.

Just giving you my perspective which you may do well to ignore! :0) just telling you how I see it which may not be to the idea you have in mind and diminish the satisfaction you have in your project.  Might be something to consider as well if you are a practical unimaginative grump like me... which I hope you are not! :0)

If this thing is moveable then a contained coolant may be the way to go. Still think you are going to need some sort of header tank and a way to purge all air from the system.  If the thing does get hot, how are you going to cool it with your surface area so spread out? Not easy to blow a fan effectively over meters of 100mm box section like it would be to cool a 200L drum. Also be aware if you run Veg oil in steel, the oil will need to be dead dry otherwise you will get poly forming on the enclosed surfaces which will eventually come away in chunks blocking any small passages. You could possibly seal the box section with something like POR-15 if you put a load in then twisted the frame around so it was all coated then drain the excess.  Much like the paint inside a lister.

What about something a bit steam punk for the cooling? Copper brazed tube all polished up? Old copper water heater tank?  Saw some copper water heater panels for sale cheap the other day.  Stainless steel? Old AC condensor ( From a BIG unit with large tubes) .