Hi Guys
I guess I'm nearly as bad at describing my issue as understanding what I want! Writing the post in a rush before going next door for supper probably didn't help, either.........
As the key for the ignition switch is rotated there are 4 positions......
1. Off, no power to any connections. Insert / remove key.
2. Gauges, alternator feed, radio and brake lights ON (run position)
3. Heater plugs ON. Gauges, alt feed, radio and brake lights OFF.
4. Feed to starter motor ON (engine cranks). Heater plugs ON. Gauges alt feed, radio and brake lights OFF (Start position)
Positions #3 and #4 are spring loaded with a return to position #2
There is no timer for the heater plugs, once the circuit light comes on, indicating position #3 it's up to the operator to count to 10 before cranking, position #4
I have connected the 'energise to run solenoid' in the injector pump to the brake light feed, once the motor is running, in position #2, it will continue to run until switched off, position #1.
At positions #3 and #4 there is no power to the brake light circuit (and thus the solenoid) and therefor the engine, whilst cranking, will not start.
To overcome this I have fitted a second feed from the heater plugs circuit with a 'momentary on' switch. Pressing this whilst the engine is cranking provides temporary power to the solenoid, allowing it to start and run until the switch is returned to position #2, Run, and the momentary switch released.
Thus starting requires both hands.
Without the momentary switch, the second feed would power the heater plugs from the brake light circuit and burn them out, in no time.
I believe a diode (fitted the right way round) would allow the heater plug circuit to power the solenoid, with the switch in positions #3 and #4 but stop the brake light circuit powering the heater plugs from position #2
I'm happy without a timer for the glow plugs, many years ago, as a baby Bootneck, I was taught to count to 19, I'd just like to be able to start the motor with one hand.......
So, what sort of diode do I use, please?
Bruce,
Is this ok?, drawing and then posting a circuit diagram would severely tax my 'sparky skills'
I worked out and set the whole thing up with a 12v bulb, 2 pieces of wire and 2 crocodile clips, I can use the volts and continuity settings on a multimeter and that's about it.
Glort
You're quite right about some of the Landy fraternity and I suspect the answers would range from rebuilding the original engine (gotta keep it in factory spec, even to the point of going to Solihull so you can use the same air to pump the tyres up) to changing the solenoid to 'energise to stop' (an option, but if the vehicle rolls away in gear it will start, not good if the keys to the steering lock are still in your hip pocket) or fitting a cable operated 'manual stop' conversion (believed to exist but I can't find one)
Cheers Stef
And that's only the sensible one's!