Author Topic: LR1 question  (Read 2365 times)

Johndoh

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LR1 question
« on: February 10, 2018, 02:31:25 PM »
Hi Guys
I just bought a lister LR1 seems ok turns over etc. It's set for 900 rpm. I want to run it at 1500 rpm is it really as simple as changing the spring to a red one? The weight numbers are the same, thanks!
« Last Edit: March 04, 2018, 02:18:47 PM by Johndoh »
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dieselgman

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Re: LR1 question
« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2018, 04:18:07 PM »
To attain stability for fixed speed generator use they often used a weight and spring combination on the governor as well as a stronger speeder spring. I would have to confirm exact details for LR though. We don't see too many of them in the US.

dieselgman
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Johndoh

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Re: LR1 question
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2018, 08:22:06 AM »
Thanks Gman
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dieselgman

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Re: LR1 question
« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2018, 02:54:25 PM »
From your chart I see you will need to change both the speeder spring and the pair of weight springs. Thanks for posting your chart picture!

dieselgman
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Johndoh

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Re: LR1 question
« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2018, 08:09:04 PM »
And finally I cant get SAE10W engine oil locally would 10W40 be ok? Thanks for your quick reply gman it's good to get the correct advice!
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AdeV

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Re: LR1 question
« Reply #5 on: February 11, 2018, 10:10:26 PM »
And finally I cant get SAE10W engine oil locally would 10W40 be ok? Thanks for your quick reply gman it's good to get the correct advice!

10W40 will be absolutely fine (as various contributors have noted over the years; any modern oil will massively outperform the sort of oils which were around when the LR engines were new).

You can get straight SAE10 oil from some places - Morris Oils do them, if you've got a distributor near you.
Cheers!
Ade.
--------------
1x Lister CS Start-o-Matic (complete, runs)
0x Lister JP4 :( - Sold to go in a canal boat.

Johndoh

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Re: LR1 question
« Reply #6 on: February 12, 2018, 12:36:22 PM »
Thanks Ade I will change the oil today when I get it attached to something solid like a railway sleeper. Diesel Gman I read a thread on here some time ago about a lift pump I think it was for an LR1??? There's no fuel tank with this engine so I can either spend three times the price of the engine on a new fuel tank filter housing and all brackets or use a Gerrycan and a lift pump connected to a Land Rover series fuel filter. I have the Gerrycan and some other gubbins and as it's going to be a generator a long run tank is very appealing aesthetics not so much. Very long way of asking if the LR1 can accept a lift pump and do I need other parts as well as the pump!
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dieselgman

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Re: LR1 question
« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2018, 01:22:08 PM »
For a stock mechanical lift pump your LR will require a pump tappet and guide installed in the proper crankcase door machined to accept them. It is common enough on later SR models and I think the same crankcase door will fit both models. If your setup has 12vdc power, and you lack the proper Lister parts, then it will be much easier to simply add an electric lift pump.

dieselgman
Ford Powerstroke, Caterpillar 3304, Cummins M11, Too many Listers to count...

Johndoh

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Re: LR1 question
« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2018, 07:42:21 PM »
Maybe electric or gravity feed I've not decided yet, electric would be best I think I'd need something like a motorbike battery and a solar charger??? I got it back to the shed today and started dismantling it to check the piston etc. The flywheel has LD stamped on it could it be the wrong crankcase door fitted the serial number plate is attached to it? The flywheel seems much smaller than the old LD1 I used to have. The injector looks like the attached photo. Thanks Gman
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dieselgman

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Re: LR1 question
« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2018, 09:29:49 PM »
That injector looks like a ST model... but hard to tell with the nozzle capped.


dieselgman
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Johndoh

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Re: LR1 question
« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2018, 08:39:23 AM »
That injector looks like a ST model... but hard to tell with the nozzle capped.


dieselgman
I will get a photograph of the injector today would the part number be of help? Sorry for all the questions. There were no washers under the head nuts is this normal?
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dieselspanner

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Re: LR1 question
« Reply #11 on: February 13, 2018, 09:20:38 AM »
KISS!

If you're going to bolt it to a sleeper (railroad tie, in American) I doubt you'll spoil the aesthetics with a fuel tank mounted on angle iron bracketry for a gravity fed system.

Use  a Jerry can,  a bronze BSP fitting brazed into the bottom to take a ball valve will make filter changes easy and bleeding with a 2' head of pressure is simple too. A short length of copper brake pipe brazed into the top will take care of the any return.

Drill a small hole from the underside of the cap in to the 'tunnel' where it swivels to make a dust proof vent.

No pumps, no electric or battery to bother with either and if you want extended run time, double up the Jerry cans and leave both valves open, they'll equalise, and it will save the work of plumbing the return to the second 'can, with a change over valve.

30 quid if you use new kit, very near nothing if you scrounge thro' the 'come in handy' pile.

Well, that's wot I think.........

Cheers Stef
Tighten 'til it strips, weld nut to chassis, peen stud, adjust with angle grinder.

Johndoh

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Re: LR1 question
« Reply #12 on: February 13, 2018, 09:58:36 AM »
Injector has a number etched or engraved on it  381 I couldnt get a good close up photo
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Johndoh

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Re: LR1 question
« Reply #13 on: February 13, 2018, 10:04:36 AM »
KISS!

If you're going to bolt it to a sleeper (railroad tie, in American) I doubt you'll spoil the aesthetics with a fuel tank mounted on angle iron bracketry for a gravity fed system.

Use  a Jerry can,  a bronze BSP fitting brazed into the bottom to take a ball valve will make filter changes easy and bleeding with a 2' head of pressure is simple too. A short length of copper brake pipe brazed into the top will take care of the any return.

Drill a small hole from the underside of the cap in to the 'tunnel' where it swivels to make a dust proof vent.

No pumps, no electric or battery to bother with either and if you want extended run time, double up the Jerry cans and leave both valves open, they'll equalise, and it will save the work of plumbing the return to the second 'can, with a change over valve.

30 quid if you use new kit, very near nothing if you scrounge thro' the 'come in handy' pile.

Well, that's wot I think.........

Cheers Stef
Good thinking there Stef, I don't have the oxy acetylene kit and brazing is a bit of a dying art in Ireland. Perhaps there is another way to attach the outlet? I also have a 7 litre fire extinguisher and a wall bracket for it but the return pipe could be tricky going uphill? I'm off now to get the injector popped and a new washer. Thanks
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Johndoh

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Re: LR1 question
« Reply #14 on: February 13, 2018, 10:26:12 PM »
I assume this is why it was sold as a non runner, thank God for Mr Muscle oven cleaner!  The fuel tank I'm using for testing is higher than a normal tank and I don't know where to route the fuel return pipe to. Could I route it to the intake or would the leakoff fuel rise to the tank? Other options are a 'T' piece into the fuel line or a can for collecting the drips. We have the washing machine and dryer in the shed, I don't want the shed to smell too much or the wife will kill me or worse!
« Last Edit: February 14, 2018, 12:02:24 AM by Johndoh »
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