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Author Topic: Making CS crank handle.  (Read 237 times)

glort

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Making CS crank handle.
« on: January 04, 2018, 02:51:27 PM »

My Roid didn't come with a crank handle and the starter motor I was using has worn through it's bearing probably from all the starts I did trying to balance the thing last time.

I thought I'd build a crank handle and ask if there are any improvements or things to watch for with it.
I found a good length of pipe that  fits over the crank.  I'll cut that at an angle so when the thing fires it will disengege the handle.  If it kicks back, that's going to hurt!  Saw a YT vid on the correct way to hold the crank with the thumb forward so will keep that in mind.

I was thinking today to make the handle long but then  realised it will be easier to spin faster with a short one even if it takes a bit more force. I'm going to weld some heavy square section to the round that goes over the crank and thread a long bolt to that through a piece of pipe to form a rolling grip.

Any thing else I should do? Recommendation on a modified length handle or anything else to watch out for or can be improved upon?

Really just want to use this short term.
I added 120G of stick on wheel weights to each flywheel today so want to fire the thing up to see if I can make some improvements then look at wether I keep or move it on.
If it stays It will be getting electric start for sure, probably flex plate with car starter.

dieselgman

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Re: Making CS crank handle.
« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2018, 04:19:32 PM »
Original handle uses a spring-loaded pawl so that it can disengage when crank speed exceeds that of the handle. These engines can accelerate quickly on first fire and may exceed your reflexes to pull a stuck handle out of the way. I would use the original design. I value my hands and arms as I'm sure you do yours!

dieselgman
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dieselspanner

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Re: Making CS crank handle.
« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2018, 05:03:46 PM »
Make it like a 'C' spanner, so it grips the key way but will throw out on the over run, easy to fabricate and no danger of it getting stuck.

It's sort of how the bars for 'barring over' work on the big machines

Cheers Stef
Tighten 'til it strips, weld nut to chassis, peen stud, adjust with angle grinder.

mikenash

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Re: Making CS crank handle.
« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2018, 05:07:36 PM »
I have a home-made "C-spanner" one and it's OK - sometimes slips off peskily but is very safe.  I also have one of the Indian ones from Old Timer Engines.  Why wouldn't you just buy one from him - them being so cheap and him being in Australia and so helpful?  Cheers

mike90045

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Re: Making CS crank handle.
« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2018, 07:53:52 PM »
The ready made handle that came with my metro clone works well, it''s got the ratchet built in & reversible.

ajaffa1

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Re: Making CS crank handle.
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2018, 08:56:27 AM »
Hi Glort, plenty of places sell a 2" starting handle for a CS or Listeroid but if, like me, you are a bit short of shoulder strength then a longer lever on the handle would be a great idea. I`d love to see what you come up with.
I am a bit concerned that there are still people here that trust the pawl in the starter handle to save them from injury. The correct way to safely start one of these beasts is to wind it up, remove the starting handle before disengaging the decompression lever.
Stay safe.
Bob

glort

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Re: Making CS crank handle.
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2018, 12:45:17 PM »

Hi Bob,

I did find one online and bought a few other bits and pieces while I was at it cause I'm a bit unorganised in the shed still having moved here " only" 4 months ago. Found the welder but the cut off saw and the Plasma cutter are still MIA.
 I figure if I do sell the thing it will be better with the right coloured crank.

I"ll see how it goes and if I can disengage it before hitting compression which was what I was going to do with one I built. Didn't even realise there was a ratchet thing in them till the other day.  I was going to cut and angled piece in some pipe so the thing would push itself free once cranking stopped  and once it was disengeged I could flip the lever.  Guess I have more to learn that I realised, I thought this was the way it was supposed to be done.  :-[

I do have good reach in the arms and unlike the way my legs usually feel, plenty of strength in them too. I was thinking of shortening the crank so I could spin the thing up faster even if it did take a bit more torque to get going.  Least now I'll have one to measure off to make a shorter one.
The crank on my little china diesel is a mongeral thing.  Even on 6" blocks if you are not damn careful you skin your knuckles and you wind it over.
Geez I have lost some skin with that thing!

I KNEW there was something I wanted to bring back the other week when I was in Dads wrecking yard.  I stood there looking at the alternators and PS pumps thinking I know I wanted one but for what? Knew I had a few alternators, a couple of PS pumps and AC compressors i'd brought back for other ( abandoned rushes of blood to the head projects) and couldn't think why I wanted more so didn't bother.
Was a Starter and a flex plate I wanted!!

Ah well, no time to muck with those in the next couple of weeks either and then I'll be back up there anyway.

I really want to just get the thing going for my Daughters 21st. She is having a bush festival theme and for once, is excited about the prospect of having the engine running driving a couple of those old fashioned yellow looking lights.  Could make them all look like that with a PWM controller module I built up but the globes wouldn't be the right shape.

Put some lights in the trees today with coloured gels and put a 50W LED flood light on the side of an IBC container.  Showed her tonight and she was stoked.  The tanks light up with  an all round glow and then I put some gels in front of the light and it really looked funky.  Biggest lamp shades ever.

I have 4 tanks to put round the yard so should look great. Going to build a tin shed for the DJ ( lord help me!) and I might build another for the roid to add effect  and keep prying and drunk appendages at bay.
Pity I don't have any vintage looking switches or boards around.
 

dieselgman

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Re: Making CS crank handle.
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2018, 03:10:44 PM »
Hi Glort, plenty of places sell a 2" starting handle for a CS or Listeroid but if, like me, you are a bit short of shoulder strength then a longer lever on the handle would be a great idea. I`d love to see what you come up with.
I am a bit concerned that there are still people here that trust the pawl in the starter handle to save them from injury. The correct way to safely start one of these beasts is to wind it up, remove the starting handle before disengaging the decompression lever.
Stay safe.
Bob

I would not "trust" the pawl on its own, and many of these take a bit more than a casual spin to start up. Many have to be pulled through the first compression event or two to start up.

dieselgman
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Hugh Conway

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Re: Making CS crank handle.
« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2018, 07:44:27 PM »
Re pulling the crank handle off before starting........Have never been able to start my listeroid without helping it through that 1st compression.....even in warm weather. I do keep the pawl well lubed and check it. Never yet a problem with it not slipping off easily after it fires up. Usually it gets started by switching on the starter generator though.
Now, my Dursley starts by just looking at it........seems so anyway. It's easy to crank up, remove the handle and leisurely flip the compression release out of the way and off it goes.
Different strokes as it were.........
Cheers,
Hugh
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Tom

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Re: Making CS crank handle.
« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2018, 09:08:15 PM »
Back many moons ago when I and the Listeroid were both newb's. The starting crank handle did not slip off the shaft smoothly. So if it was not slid straight off the shaft it would hang up. Once I had the thing running with the crank winging around half off the shaft. Eventually I had the wherewithal to approach the thing and turn off the fuel rack. Since it was up against a fence I could only approach from the cranking side. Rather scary.
Tom
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veggie

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Re: Making CS crank handle.
« Reply #10 on: January 09, 2018, 01:05:19 AM »
I have a Roid crank handle that has a bit too little clearance on the shaft.
Several times it did not slide off the shaft after starting.  :o
Had to stand back and shut the fuel rack off with a broom handle and hope to heck that the F*'ing handle didn't fly across the room.
Well....enough of that Sh*t !!!
I quickly moved to build an electric start system.
(I still have the Roid and love it  ;) )

And I do plan to get the bore turned out on the handle.
Make sure you have lots of clearance. It should fit very loose.

Veggie
« Last Edit: January 09, 2018, 04:53:08 AM by veggie »
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ajaffa1

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Re: Making CS crank handle.
« Reply #11 on: January 13, 2018, 11:43:25 AM »
I think the lesson to be learner here is keep it loose and well lubricated or buy a Dursley. Shame they don`t make them any more.

Bob

glort

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Re: Making CS crank handle.
« Reply #12 on: January 14, 2018, 11:26:18 AM »

Given it a few spin ups not and no problem to wind it up hard, slip the crank back and flick the decomp lever and have it run through at least a couple of compressions on it's own.  Has been starting first time except when I let the fuel get too low and had to give it a bit of reprime.

Have to get a flex plate and starter motor for the thing.  It's not that hard to wind up though, from what I had read I though it was going to be like winding up a Jumbo jet.  It's firm but not overly difficult to spin if you put a bit of shoulder into it. 

Least it starts even if it does make like a jackhammer.