Author Topic: New member  (Read 324 times)

Steam Pig

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New member
« on: October 10, 2017, 07:11:59 PM »
Hello all. I am new to diesel engines, and have recently decided to dip my toe into a new world. I have an LT1A. (3404618LT1A-30). I am taking baby steps here as I am not certain this thing is worth putting money into just yet. I do not know what it came off of but it apparently had a remote fuel tank and air cleaner as it only has (now) a flexible rubber intake hose attached to the manifold. So, it is missing a tank, air cleaner, and a starter handle. It does have electric start, and the starter spins, but I think the Bendix gear  (as I know it) is bad. I have removed the starter and it spins well under power and the gear slides, but the pinion gear is loose inside the gear hub and I can see what looks like deteriorated rubber inside the hub. Also, the return spring is in pieces. Can that hub be replaced  w/o replacing the entire starter? I have it off the starter now.
I have found that I am getting oil at all 3 banjo fittings while turning by hand, and the I side of the valve cover on top is very clean. I have been told it would be wise to remove and make sure the injector and pump are not stuck before starting? What say you? I don't want to kill this before it's time.
Thanks any and all in advance.

Steam Pig

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Re: New member
« Reply #1 on: October 19, 2017, 01:30:28 AM »
Well, I have another question. Maybe this will get a response. On the top of my LT1A there is a spill pipe (?) exiting from the valve cover which is supposed to lead back to the tank. I assume it is a sort of return line? My question is this: how much pressure is that return fuel under? I am trying to adapt a tank to fit and I do not know if that line can run upwards about 1 inch before entering the tank, or if it must be level or slightly downhill to the tank?
Also am looking for a bendix drive (11 tooth) for the older style starter, and a crank (ccw old style). Thanks!

Samo

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Re: New member
« Reply #2 on: October 19, 2017, 07:02:33 AM »
Gday Steam Pig!

Not quite qualified to answer the first question, as I only dabble in the CS Listers, however if it's anything like the CS injector setup for the second questions (as I understand it) there's not a lot of pressure in the return line, the real pressure is between the injector pump and the injector.

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong...  ;D

Samo
Lister CS 12/2 & JKSON 10/1 Listeroid

AdeV

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Re: New member
« Reply #3 on: October 19, 2017, 09:57:15 AM »
Well, I have another question. Maybe this will get a response. On the top of my LT1A there is a spill pipe (?) exiting from the valve cover which is supposed to lead back to the tank. I assume it is a sort of return line? My question is this: how much pressure is that return fuel under? I am trying to adapt a tank to fit and I do not know if that line can run upwards about 1 inch before entering the tank, or if it must be level or slightly downhill to the tank?

You can run that pipe up-hill. It slowly fill with diesel (it's the injector leak-off pipe: Any diesel not injected finds its way into this pipe) if it doesn't drain downhill, but the pressure will be enough to push the diesel back into the tank, once it's filled up. However, it's not a high pressure line, so regular fuel feed pipe can be used (the sort that feeds your injection pump and rack).
Cheers!
Ade.
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1x Lister CS Start-o-Matic (complete, runs)
0x Lister JP4 :( - Sold to go in a canal boat.

dieselspanner

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Re: New member
« Reply #4 on: October 19, 2017, 04:07:22 PM »
Ade is right, it'll go up hill quite a way, mine lifts 6/8 inches (150 / 200mm) with no trouble.

When you think about it there's shed loads of pressure in the injector just before it cracks off, which is when the 'leak' occurs, it's just that there's not much of it each time.

Don't be tempted to put a valve on the return line, leave it 'open pipe'

Stef
Tighten 'til it strips, weld nut to chassis, peen stud, adjust with angle grinder.

Steam Pig

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Re: New member
« Reply #5 on: October 19, 2017, 10:52:42 PM »
Super! Thanks for the replies!  I will do that then. Gonna try to hack a crank together, fit a temporary tank and see what happens. I have a starter shop near me tring to match up the starter/ bendix. Leaning towards a starter from a Mercury Mariner outboard, but we'll see. Will let all know.  I did find a .pdf manual  on line but the page about lubrication had a viscosity chart that was completely blurred. Am I correct  that 15-w40 is a good choice?

glort

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Re: New member
« Reply #6 on: October 20, 2017, 12:05:54 AM »

The return pipes on several of my assorted Diesel engines is missing.  Gone hard or perished through the use of Veg or bio.  Most of them don't even emit a drop, some do but I'm not worried about the occasional drip. I make more mess refueling the things. Every time.  Bit of oil keeps rust at bay.  :0)
Never had one on the Roid and never noticed any thing coming from it.  Being a roid, it leaks plenty of oil from other places so a few drops more is not going to be noticed.

As said, while not high pressure or volume, it will push along and if it doesn't, no big deal anyway.

dieselspanner

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Re: New member
« Reply #7 on: October 20, 2017, 07:18:00 AM »
Make sure your starting handle has a ratchet and slides off nice and easy as the motor picks up or you'll have a massively unbalanced lump being driven round at ever increasing speed whilst you try to get hold of the stop or the decompression leaver to try regain control!

I don't know where you are but if you struggle with the bendix I know of a guy in Poole, Dorset, UK who may be helpfull

Cheers Stef
Tighten 'til it strips, weld nut to chassis, peen stud, adjust with angle grinder.

dieselgman

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Re: New member
« Reply #8 on: October 27, 2017, 02:05:21 AM »
15-40 diesel lube is correct for you LT1. There may be no fuel at all in your leak-off line... that is also OK and normal. New injectors sometimes have no leakage, but the line is there to allow for that. There multiple acceptable ways to plumb it correctly - Wide Open back to fuel tank is best bet.

That will have a little Lucas starter that Lister has priced to the sky... but spare parts are likely available in the U.K. and they can be repaired - especially if just the Bendix gear is at fault.

dieselgman
Ford Powerstroke, Caterpillar 3304, Cummins M11, Too many Listers to count...

Steam Pig

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Re: New member
« Reply #9 on: November 07, 2017, 03:14:03 AM »
Update:
I took the starter to a local shop. He could not match the bendix up as it has an odd number of teeth and rotates opposite of most (?) So he suggested welding the hub of the bendix to the outer cage. We both agreed that it should be fine for the use it will see.
I found a tank that will work, off of an old Wisconsin I think. I will use the existing sediment bowl and screen and add an in line strainer just because. Based on the mounting position I came up with the return line from the injector will be only 2 inches below where the line will re-enter the tank. I didn't want to permenently alter either the engine or tank (which is 50 years old in itself!) so I drilled a hole way up on the filler neck just below the cap and soldered in a 1/8 in steel pop rivet. It will always be above the fuel level and can easily revert  to a usable gas tank should a Lister tank ever be available.
And the crank handle just needs to bent and welded to the fab'd hub i made. Now that the starter is serviceable the crank is a secondary project, but I get it about the safety concerns. I have played with flywheel engines for a while now and cranks scare the hell out of me. Would much rather spin the wheels manually.
Hopefully by the end of the week I should be ready to unleash the beast! I know, I know...pictures!