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Author Topic: 6/1 cs water jacket  (Read 4509 times)

swcornwall

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6/1 cs water jacket
« on: November 12, 2016, 03:20:15 PM »
I've just completed decoking the lister and filled with water to discover the water jacket is leaking :( are the ones from SEP a straight swap? Is it worth looking for someone to stitch it?
I'm so annoyed about it.
What's involved in changing the cylinder?
Thank you
Simon

dieselgman

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Re: 6/1 cs water jacket
« Reply #1 on: November 12, 2016, 04:14:38 PM »
Assuming you have an original Dursley 6/1, then you will need a non-sleeved 7-stud replacement. Preferably one with a chromed bore like the originals were. There are good suppliers available if SEP does not have what you need in a convenient location and price.

We have seen them repaired... but that does not always work. It depends on how much corrosion has happened inside the casting (remaining material thickness), where the crack is situated, and the skills of your repair welder.

dieselgman
ALL Things Lister/Petter - Americas
Lyons Kansas warehousing and rebuild operations

swcornwall

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Re: 6/1 cs water jacket
« Reply #2 on: November 12, 2016, 05:24:45 PM »
https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Lister-CS-type-Cylinder.html

Sorry to be a pain but is that the suitable one? Is there a lot of work involved in changing the cylinder over?
Thank you again
Simon

dieselspanner

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Re: 6/1 cs water jacket
« Reply #3 on: November 12, 2016, 10:23:28 PM »
Hi Simon

Yes that's the one for an original Lister, with 7 studs, there's loads of stuff on here ref setting the bump clearance after changing the cylinder, use a new head gasket, take your time and look up 38ac's post on setting the tappet clearance, turn the motor over VERY slowly by hand before cranking it, first with the valve lifter off, then on. Pull the piston and conrod up through the cylinder and replace it the same way. You can drop the cylinder over the piston but it's bloody heavy and if you slip you'll likely break the top ring, make a spring compressor from a suitable sized tin can and a couple of large Jubilee clips, use plenty of new engine oil everywhere, from an old fashioned oil can is best.
You don't need a torque wrench, just do every thing up evenly, a bit at a time, the head bolts in a diagonal pattern. Take photo's as you go, but honestly there's not a lot of bits and most of them will only go in one (hopefully the right) place.

Whilst the head is on the bench doing a paraffin test on the valves is a good idea.

If you are only using the CS as a show piece you could try grinding back the leaking areas, carefully,  with a flap wheel on a 4" grinder and using JB Weld (check out Ebay) to build the wall thickness back up, for around a tenner it's got to be worth a shot.

As I said, 'most anything is covered on here somewhere, use the site search engine and go easy with the hammer!


Cheers Stef
Tighten 'til it strips, weld nut to chassis, peen stud, adjust with angle grinder.

swcornwall

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Re: 6/1 cs water jacket
« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2016, 07:51:18 AM »
Amazing, thank you. 
I think the rings are leaking any way,  there is exhaust coming out of the breather so hopefully this cloud has a silver lining in that the rings will be done too. 
How is the cylinder actually attached?
Paraffin test?.
This is a SOM its definitely not being used as a show piece,  it's a workhorse for winter back up power,  battery bank is already low do I'll be getting on with this asap.
I'll spend tonight after my batteries have charged reading through the site,  my phone is hard to read from.
Many thanks
Simon

dieselgman

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Re: 6/1 cs water jacket
« Reply #5 on: November 13, 2016, 01:47:01 PM »
Once you take the head nuts loose and the cylinder head off, the cylinder will pull up off the piston without further attachments. There are many possible ways to approach this work. I would recommend going ahead with pulling the connecting rod and removing the piston assembly along with the cylinder. After removing the rod cap rotate the piston to the top of its stroke before trying to pull the assembly off the block.  We have found it useful to remove the head studs during this process so that they can be cleaned and checked and so that they are not interfering with handling the cylinder.

dieselgman
ALL Things Lister/Petter - Americas
Lyons Kansas warehousing and rebuild operations

dieselspanner

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Re: 6/1 cs water jacket
« Reply #6 on: November 13, 2016, 05:38:18 PM »
Hi Simon

Check this out for paraffin test       https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0jA9s9pDZU

This is being done with water, you can use any liquid, the thinner the liquid the smaller the gap it will pass through, lighter fluid / acetone is very thin, but also inflammable, take care!

You should have a perfect seal, if not look up valve grinding / re seating on here.

Whilst you have the head off fabricate some sort of pointer next to one of the flywheels and mark Top Dead Centre - TDC - on the flywheel, I used a very sharp cold chisel and filled the groove in with a drop of white paint. Somewhere on here is 38ac's design using the last clevis pin in the throttle linkage. It'll come in really handy when you time the pushrods and be almost indispensable if you start to play with the injector timing or pull the camshaft out.
From TDC you can mark out all the other positions on the rim of the flywheel as required with a 'Tipex' pen, each degree is 5.13mm on my wheels.

Not knowing the history of your CS, it's hard to say about the exhaust gas blowing by the piston, if it's not been run in some time you may find that after an hour or two's running under load it settles back in.
If not get new rings to go with the new cylinder.

Cheers Stef



 
Tighten 'til it strips, weld nut to chassis, peen stud, adjust with angle grinder.

listard-jp2

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Re: 6/1 cs water jacket
« Reply #7 on: November 14, 2016, 08:39:11 AM »
https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Lister-CS-type-Cylinder.html

Sorry to be a pain but is that the suitable one?

From looking at that photograph on the SEP website, it would appear that the cylinder block has a chrome plated pressed in sleeve from new. If this is the case, it would be good to know where these chrome plated sleeves can be sourced from, as it would allow many original Lister CS cylinder blocks to be reclaimed with a chrome plated sleeve.

It would be my guess that whoever casts the cylinder block, does not have the ability to chrome plate the cylinder bore, hence the dry press fit liner.


There are good suppliers available if SEP does not have what you need in a convenient location and price.

Not a trick question, but apart from Sleeman & Hawken, Mead plant, and Real Diesels. And if you don't mind me asking, what other options exist in the UK for sourcing of Lister CS spares (genuine or otherwise)?

dieselgman

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Re: 6/1 cs water jacket
« Reply #8 on: November 14, 2016, 02:21:54 PM »
I think you have named the main sources within the U.K. for Lister parts... I am familiar with those three. My comments were coming from a wider perspective than just the U.K. and I am not readily familiar with exactly who is doing what over there. There is quite a bit of activity in parts for these engines over the entire world.

dieselgman
ALL Things Lister/Petter - Americas
Lyons Kansas warehousing and rebuild operations