Hi Simon
Yes that's the one for an original Lister, with 7 studs, there's loads of stuff on here ref setting the bump clearance after changing the cylinder, use a new head gasket, take your time and look up 38ac's post on setting the tappet clearance, turn the motor over VERY slowly by hand before cranking it, first with the valve lifter off, then on. Pull the piston and conrod up through the cylinder and replace it the same way. You can drop the cylinder over the piston but it's bloody heavy and if you slip you'll likely break the top ring, make a spring compressor from a suitable sized tin can and a couple of large Jubilee clips, use plenty of new engine oil everywhere, from an old fashioned oil can is best.
You don't need a torque wrench, just do every thing up evenly, a bit at a time, the head bolts in a diagonal pattern. Take photo's as you go, but honestly there's not a lot of bits and most of them will only go in one (hopefully the right) place.
Whilst the head is on the bench doing a paraffin test on the valves is a good idea.
If you are only using the CS as a show piece you could try grinding back the leaking areas, carefully, with a flap wheel on a 4" grinder and using JB Weld (check out Ebay) to build the wall thickness back up, for around a tenner it's got to be worth a shot.
As I said, 'most anything is covered on here somewhere, use the site search engine and go easy with the hammer!
Cheers Stef