Hi Glort,
The gunk I am running on is bad.... very bad... When I start up from cold on WMO, there is a cloud of blue grey smoke from the exhaust(looks like really buggered rings) - this persist for up to about 5 mins or so, until there is a bit of heat in the head.... It then thins out to a pale grey puff, puff at 3/4 load and life goes on... I am almost certain that this batch of WMO has a very high ratio of synthetic oil in it and it gives me grey hair, well more grey hair....
I have run the engine for a few minutes at startup, shut down, and pulled the CS plug to take a look see... there was plenty of residue ash/sticky carbon mix, showing that the combustion temps were not up to scratch to burn the gunk at startup. I then replaced the plug and restarted. After warmup, I again stopped and inspected the IDI chamber... no more sticky stuff, but quite a bit of residual ash/flaking carbon... I restarted and began WI... after 15 min or so, shutdown and checked again. IDI chamber reasonable, no flaky carbon, little to no ash present...
I ran on diesel for a couple of days and it was a totally different story - Very little startup smoke, but smelly! I shut down WI for most of the day and there was little difference between start and finish - about 10hrs running. The next day I hand started it, easily, and similar low startup smoking for a few secs only at best.. The following day I ran up on about a 50/50 mix of WMO/Dino - smokier startup, a bit harder to start but not bad, much better sounding engine, less knocky, smoother running, less exhaust smell, about the same power output, maybe a little more but hard to discern. Stop WI for more than an hour or two and he starts to smoke a bit... Pulled injector and found carbon starting to build up - a "multi globular" deposit starts to form on the injector tip and it messes around with the burn pattern I think...
Replace injector, start WI, and after a while things settle down...
My thinking is that the inefficient burn pattern is causing lots of sticky soot/carbon to adhere to the walls of the cylinder and the higher rings are riding over it possibly, causing it to deposit on all of the rings/grooves, more on top thru to least on the bottom.... (Possibly with a fouled injector causing Phase 2 combustion?)
I must confess, I haven't torn it down when it was fouled, barring when the big end failed a few hours back -at that time I did find a considerable amount of carbon behind the rings and the top oil control ring was well fouled and stuck in its groove... The big end collapsed just after startup, the engine was still "cold" relatively speaking. Also, just before it failed, when i started it, there was little blow by noted ... When the big end bearing failed the CC breather was smoking like a SOB...
As to the flowing fuel oil.... lets just say that I don't have to hurry when I disconnect a fuel line to the IP... It does not stream out, a fast dribble is more appropriate of a description, and that's with a new fuel filter in place(est round 40-50W viscosity)... With Dino on the other hand, lets just say "get a bucket ready"....
As to over fuelling - I dont think so - Seldom does it black smoke under load - I have fitted a 8mm IP element (as used on the 10HP) - this motor is downrated to about 9HP and the IP Size/Rev/Load/Power Dump Circuit mix I am using at the moment is pretty well balanced - 4.4Kw max load - Drops to just under 220v output, Just over 20A output, sustains for about a minute then the overload circuit kicks in and switches over to utility for 60 secs or so... Dark grey smoke, no black(unless cold engine and heavy load at startup)...
Possibly I am being a little over critical of the emissions - I notice them quickly and respond at first notice - In doing so however, the WI doctors things in short order and gets it all freed up quickly - I am pretty sure that in reacting quickly the tar/gunk/carbon is not getting a chance to "bake" into place(If that be the right term) and is still relatively easy to flush out.... Quite a while back, before I had WI installed fully, I was running on a dual tank system - If it started to foul up, I pulled the injector and cleaned it, switched to Dino for 15 mins or so then went back to WMO.... Now I just run WI instead and have discontinued the use of the Dino tank completely....
As to the set up - Squish was set to minimum factory spec plus .03mm(not.3mm, ie 1.78mm), timing is pretty close to 20 degrees, maybe 21... valves are sealing nicely and tappet clearances are good, compression is good, all the rest is pretty reasonable (exhaust is clear and air filter is good/excellent)... Vibration is well less than original too FYI(due to proper balancing of flywheels).... Not much more to set up really I don't think... The Injector fuel preheater is working, but making little to no difference overall.... about 30degrees warmer than before on the injector/line nut... Spray pattern is reasonable to good - Pops off at 2000Psi, only a very little is leaking past the needle at this stage and returning....
Exhaust temps are not excessive(unlike when the ex valve seat and face was buggered a few running hours ago) ... Coolant temps are in spec and while the engine is running a few(maybe 5) degrees below optimum(for me anyway), it is burning well for the most part... No sooty or fluffy carbon evident around the exhaust outlet either....
Heat reclamation from coolant and exhaust is good - 300 to 400L of water is warmed within 2 to 3 hrs from ambient(or last residual temp from the previous evening) up to around F!@# that's hot, open the cold tap to shower....
Back to my thinking on the situation..... FUEL, FUEL, FUEL..... Possibly a high concentration of synthetic, mixed with God-Knows-What that is in this batch... Switch to Dino - all is fine(Just smells shite and is a bit knocky for the timing as set now). Change to a lower ratio of WMO/Dino - Better than straight WMO or straight Dino - Currently trying: 3:2 WMO:Dino ... Seems reasonable all round, just still need WI to keep things straight....(Incidentally, the source I obtained this oil from owns a towing and recovery service as well as doing quite a bit of motor racing, V8 class and the like, it is possible that this oil was throwaway from the racing side mostly, not from the tow truck side, if it was, it would have a huge amount of synthetic in it as this is what he uses in his race engines exclusively...)
Keep it spinning....
(Please forgive the long winded reply and apologies if it appears that I am hijacking your thread... Not intended!!)
Regds
Ed
PS - Here is a sequence of pics of the exhaust smoke, they were taken about 30 sec after starting and within about a minute after they were taken, the exhaust smoke was a light to very light grey, hardly visible. The load is about 50%, and running on 3:2 WMO:Dino
http://www.warriorpaintball.co.za/private/TM1 Exhaust Smoke 20160106[/url