Author Topic: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications  (Read 289550 times)

EdDee

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 773
    • View Profile
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #360 on: June 15, 2016, 11:00:19 AM »
Hey Guys,

Its been over a month that I have been lurking in the background...doing all things non-lister....Life has just got in the way of the toys!

The gantry system is pretty much completed now, installed about 1.1Kw of neon lighting in the roof to allow for the aging eyesight. I also installed a couple of fittings in the gantry rail proper to detail light the area where a lift happens... This will be quite handy when I start doing the finals on TM2.(This has of course, led me to rewire and redo the lighting in the older section of the workshop, now that I see how bad it actually is...)

TM1 has been running fine of late, 100% WMO with the occasional whiff of Dino to start up for the evening run, I have been a bit remiss in my servicing routine with all the other goings-on, I see that he is about 200hrs overdue for an oil change and filter swop, I need to pull finger and do the necessary, lest the bearing rise up and smite me!

The slightly cooler weather has made for a more tedious start on WMO, so I  am using the small "fuel test tank" to start on... As soon as he fires up, I throw the valves and on with WMO we go....

As to a warm up routine, not much, get him firing, bring him up to revs over about 20 to 30 sec by holding the governor closed partly, when up to revs, give him about another 30 sec of free running, them onto load... (One thing I do, however, is to let the starter motor swing him over with the compression release engaged and the ip full open until the WMO clears the line and Dino hits the injector... It takes about 40 sec or so of turning over for this to happen, the injector starts to "squeak" rather than "crunch"... The WMO dumped into the cylinder is doing no major harm I reckon, just giving an upper cyl lube job as bonus!)

Incidentally, I have found a "simple" solution to my "sump gunk" running... I pushed the timing another 2.5 degrees advanced from standard in about .5 degree increments and monitored the "diesel knock" while warmed up and running... The result, around 22.5 degree timing, similar diesel knock to standard dino, less carbon buildup, similar power output when warm... So far, a happy face is in order!

Enough rambling.... I gotta go play spark monkey in my old workshop roof.... Uggggh!

Keep it spinning!

Cheers
Ed
12/1 750RPM/9HP Roid 5kVA- WMO Disposal/Electricity & Hot Water Gen
12/1 650RPM/8HP Roid 4.5kVa - Demon Dino
Chinese Yanmar - Silent Runner with AutoStart
Classic Komatsu 1963 Dozer/Fergusson 35 Gold Belly ...
Bikes,Cars,Gunsmithing & Paintball...Oh yes, a 5Ha open air Workshop to play in!

EdDee

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 773
    • View Profile
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #361 on: June 26, 2016, 08:19:29 PM »
Hey guys...

Just a small update on life in sunny ZA...

Not much been done on lister toys, did manage to throw a can of oil and a filter or two into the beast... only around 200+ hours overdue! I think I must put one of those irritating red "service" lights on the beast, at least that way he wouldn't be so neglected!

There is much to be said for injection timing... with the last advance I made to around 22 btdc, the burn has been much cleaner compared to previous... Has anybody else noticed similar when running wmo and the like? I am keen to hear!

WI still in place, keeping carbon buildup well at bay. I am loathe to pull things apart to check buildup, because at the mo, things are holding together quite well... I noticed that we have just about reached 5500kwh generated since I installed the meter, of this I am indeed happy. I would love to know what the saving has been to the household iro water heating... electricity has been a byproduct pretty much, with water heating playing the greater part of late...

The exhaust stack has been just slightly too hot to hold/touch, about 10 to 20C hotter than the radiator and hot water return pipes, so the heatex's seem to be doing their thing quite well.. the coolant heatex is working very well so far, the main fan on the radiator hardly comes on at all... I found this quite disconcerting initially and it has taken quite a bit of getting used to. One of the items I should have installed immediately, was the small "pilot" fan on the top of the radiator... this fan keeps the thermo syphon going reliably and only does minimal cooling... it is hooked up to a temperature switch at the cylinder head hot water outlet. It kicks in immediately the engine is up to about 85C and remains stunning pretty much on all the time... it moves about as much air as a 3" muffin fan, so no real big time cooling taking place, just enough to keep the coolant circulating reliably...

Anyways... Again I ramble... but before I go, a small word on tig welding... I had forgotten how much fun it was! I have been playing around with some ali welding, trying to get back into practise.... Definitely a case of 'use it or lose it' !

Keep it spinning...
Cheers
Ed
12/1 750RPM/9HP Roid 5kVA- WMO Disposal/Electricity & Hot Water Gen
12/1 650RPM/8HP Roid 4.5kVa - Demon Dino
Chinese Yanmar - Silent Runner with AutoStart
Classic Komatsu 1963 Dozer/Fergusson 35 Gold Belly ...
Bikes,Cars,Gunsmithing & Paintball...Oh yes, a 5Ha open air Workshop to play in!

buickanddeere

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 807
    • View Profile
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #362 on: June 27, 2016, 03:57:07 PM »
Fans push better than they pull. Placing the cooling fan on the cold air side of the rad will lengthen it's service life.

EdDee

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 773
    • View Profile
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #363 on: June 27, 2016, 04:37:51 PM »
Hi Guys,

B&D:

As to push, rather than pull, we will have to agree to disagree in that one!(Particularly in the case of a radiator with narrow finning as I have installed).. I agree, however, that running the fan motor in the cool will make it last longer!

Glort:

Glad to see I am still entertaining!!

The exhaust heatex amounts to a water jacketed 40mm pipe of around 3m long with the outside diameter around 75mm or so. The cool water flows into the jacket area on the "tailpipe" end and exits just before the cylinder head. Water is used only for showers etc, there are 7 plus residents in the household on a daily basis. Within 3 hrs we have around 300L of close to boiling water for ablutions....and yes.... I am generally filthy by day end and cant wait for a nice hot, relaxing shower!!

Spot on with your small fan understanding! There are 2 temp switches on the system, one is at cyl head and controls the small fan, the other is on the top of the radiator and kicks in when the radiator top hits 85C, it seldom comes on, but when it does, it is generally on a sweltering hot "berg wind" type day, and then it is only for a few minutes at a time....

Re the resevoir drum heatup on your system - I reckon the volume of the system was doing a hot/cold cycle and pushing a little hot water into the drum each cycle... the minute the system starts to circulate, water contracts and draws in a bit of cool into the system, only to heat up and expel the hot stuff at the top, which rises to the top of the drum...the cycle starts again....

My current WMO is all but finished, we are on the real dregs at the mo... the fuel processor is only about 1/2 full of real crappy stuff, so no point in running that up....yet... Tomorrow we go grab another 40L small batch to run up on.... I have just been a little busy with other toys lately to do the waste recovery thing....

Tomorrow's another day!!

Keep it spinning...

Cheers
Ed

12/1 750RPM/9HP Roid 5kVA- WMO Disposal/Electricity & Hot Water Gen
12/1 650RPM/8HP Roid 4.5kVa - Demon Dino
Chinese Yanmar - Silent Runner with AutoStart
Classic Komatsu 1963 Dozer/Fergusson 35 Gold Belly ...
Bikes,Cars,Gunsmithing & Paintball...Oh yes, a 5Ha open air Workshop to play in!

dieselgman

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3189
    • View Profile
    • Lister Parts
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #364 on: June 29, 2016, 02:09:57 PM »
Common fans can push equally well as pull. For the most part it is just a matter of changing their rotation and/or orientation to the power source. The vast majority of our generator installations are using pusher fans to exhaust the waste heat out the front of the radiator. The same is true of most air-conditioner condenser fans. It mostly has to do with the desired air flow direction, practicalities of mounting, and little else. On automobile fans, those with radiators in front, the reason for them to pull rather than push is because they would not work well fighting against normal air flow when the vehicle was moving forward. My Mercedes uses a pair of electric fans mounted in front of the radiator rather than behind and they are defined as pushers. I suppose it really becomes a matter of which side of the blades you might be looking at...

dieselgman
ALL Things Lister/Petter - Americas
Lyons Kansas warehousing and rebuild operations

EdDee

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 773
    • View Profile
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #365 on: June 29, 2016, 02:31:55 PM »
Hey Glort....

I was bout to ask how many KwH to the k*****n.... but I wont in case I get flamed....

Car fans are indeed robust and strong, for me though, I dont have 12V on the system per se' so they would be a pain to install with txformers/rectifier etc... Easiest was a few scrap 220v low power consumption fans... Probs adds up to less than 150W in total for fans and another 200W or so for water circulation... all in its probs in the region of 1.5A or thereabouts for the 220v line as a max fixed overhead...After this is all taken care of, it still pushes 20A to the db board so, "ja well no fine!" (An old SA saying...)

The WMO I look for is probs the worst of the worst...Why go easy? But seriously though, it is in vastly varying qualities and quantities... Often from open pails forgotten in the back of beyond... I wonder how many dissolved rats I have consumed? That would make the kitty boys happy, I bet!

I run through about 5L of oil a day on an average to short 3hr run... This sees to about an average load of ..... uh.... dunno.... Will have to recheck my spreadsheet for that, but I do remember that I average out to about 600ml per Kwh so going on the grey matter here, its around 5000/600 ... 8.5 kwh.... about 1.6L per hour.... The "Day Tank" gets a top up every 4 to 5 days if we do average runs.... To get the best out of the system, I try and keep the run to 3hrs plus or minus... More than that and water heating becomes inefficient, less than 2 1/2 hrs and water heating is too little... Time things right, and I get the dishwasher on, the ironing done, and the chips fried in one run! (Consecutively of course!) Each of those heavy appliances takes us to around 18A draw total including the household! To try and get the women to understand that only one of the heavy use items can be used at a time is sometimes....no always, a chore...(but a hairdryer doesn't take that much....does it?)

There are plenty of ways to do something for the environment:
Keep traveling costs to 0 by working from home.....Check
Recycle old oils into fuel rather than dumping .... Check
Recycle old equipment and refurbish rather than replace .... Check
Reduce your footprint IRO Grid Water usage..... Check
Reduce your footprint IRO Grid Power Usage .... Check
etc etc etc....Need I go On? .....

I had a "discussion" face to face with one of my "green" friends.... He gave me a bollocking for a wood fired braai we were having.... Until I pointed out to him that his "clean" household cooking either came from coal/diesel or nuke...and to top it off, he came to visit in a nice petrol powered sedan... His one trip out to me burned more energy than 6 months worth of weekend barbecues.... A long silence ensued and the subject changed....(Its amazing to see the look of realization when the facts slowly sink through the brain boulders) .... Lol....

Enough rambling/ranting and raving...As long as we all do our bit to keep old iron going, old fuels burnt cleanly, and minimal sludge dumped into the environment, there should be a green space left for our kids!

Keep it spinning...

Cheerz
Ed

PS - I am not a greenie/bunny hugger/environmental fruit bat.... but.... cleaner is better.... Oh sh!t.... Maybe I am a greenie/bunny hugger/environmental fruit bat.
12/1 750RPM/9HP Roid 5kVA- WMO Disposal/Electricity & Hot Water Gen
12/1 650RPM/8HP Roid 4.5kVa - Demon Dino
Chinese Yanmar - Silent Runner with AutoStart
Classic Komatsu 1963 Dozer/Fergusson 35 Gold Belly ...
Bikes,Cars,Gunsmithing & Paintball...Oh yes, a 5Ha open air Workshop to play in!

EdDee

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 773
    • View Profile
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #366 on: June 29, 2016, 02:48:48 PM »
Hey GMan...

Well put! .....but...

Consider a plain fan/radiator setup....no shrouds, air ducts etc involved.

Close couple the fan on both a pull and a push scenario(ie the fan blades are in close proximity, identical spacing for each).

The pushing fan will exhaust air both axially and radially due to a higher pressure in the hub area and the centrifugal component of the air being moved...No duct, and the air will recirculate through the blades as not all of it will be able to "fit" through the fins at such a low pressure/velocity..

The pulling fan, will move the same or similar amount of air, but with a somewhat higher percentage going through the radiator fins, possibly because both the radially as well as axially expelled air has to come from somewhere, most easily the other side of the radiator....

Just my warped explanation....

Cheerz
Ed

PS - My roid uses a pull fan....no duct...works better than when I had it the other way round.... My bulldozer on the other hand, uses a push fan....Ducted and keeps the cr@p blowing ahead and away from the operator!
12/1 750RPM/9HP Roid 5kVA- WMO Disposal/Electricity & Hot Water Gen
12/1 650RPM/8HP Roid 4.5kVa - Demon Dino
Chinese Yanmar - Silent Runner with AutoStart
Classic Komatsu 1963 Dozer/Fergusson 35 Gold Belly ...
Bikes,Cars,Gunsmithing & Paintball...Oh yes, a 5Ha open air Workshop to play in!

buickanddeere

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 807
    • View Profile
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #367 on: June 29, 2016, 03:28:15 PM »
Hi Guys,

B&D:

As to push, rather than pull, we will have to agree to disagree in that one!(Particularly in the case of a radiator with narrow finning as I have installed)..

X2.  In fact I would say that it is completely the other way around.  if the pushed better than they pulled, cars would have electric fans in front of the radiator not behind.


Quote
I agree, however, that running the fan motor in the cool will make it last longer!

That may well be true and it may also depend a lot on the fan in use. I have no real thoughts other than that.

What I do know for a fact is car radiator fans seem to be extremely robust and long lived.
I have a pair on my truck I took off a 10 yo Subaru. I used them to replace the mechanical fan and what a good modification that has proven to be.  I don't have a thermostat on them, they tend to run all the time except when I am on the highway when I remember to turn them off.  Around town they are left on.
They log up big running hours but not had any problems so far.

I also have a couple I put in the windows at home in summer. These tend to run 24/7 for weeks at a time because no matter the temp outside, the rooms they are in that get the full sun are always hotter if left unventilated. at night they bring in a much cooler breeze than the house has been heated to. The hours these things have run up over the last 3 summers I have been using them would surely be more than any normal vehicle would see in service and these things were taken of vehicles that were over 10 YO when I got them!

I have great faith in these fans which is also bolstered by the fact they are only ever sold in my fathers wrecking yard to replace ones accident damaged. Can't ever remember selling one to replace one that stopped working with the exception of a car that ended up underwater and was a farm ute. Even that failed a year after being submerged but it was siezed so who knows.

How much oil a dat are you going through Ed on average and is a better source of WMO difficult for you to get?


It's funny how everyone using WMO tends to get and warn of sludge and water.  The oil we drain at the yard is never that bad. Sure some is a bit thick and very dirty but I have never seen anything sludgy at the bottom of an oil drain pan or drum I have brought home. It just makes me wonder where these vehicles come from and why the service routine is so bad!
I got about 60L the other week from my Brother in law who did an oil change on his boat. Being diesel oil it's nice and thin and it gets changed on a calendar time rather than an engine time basis. On a run basis I think he'd only need to change it about every 3 years!  :0)

We do throw all the oil in together at the yard, engine, trans, brake fluid, steer but never any water/ coolant.  Some mechanics must be effing lazy!
I have been stuffing round and procrastinating setting up my waste oil fired house heater and I intend to run that on WMO to save my veg oil.  For that burner I don't even need to filter the stuff. I could probably strain it through a couple of layers of fly wire but anything that gets through that is going to be fine enough to get through the burner fittings.

I have a couple of Vids on my YT channel where I burn WMO. The idiot comments I get from the greenwashed save the planet Ignorant environmental nazis about recycling and other crap is amazing.
According to some, all you need to do is filter it through some cloth and put it back in the engine.  I wonder how many of them are stupid or even hands on enough to do that with their own Vehicles?

My favorite whinge is about " Heavy Metals" going into the air from WMO burning.  Again another whinge that sounds intelligent but is moronically flawed.
An engine only has to loose a few thou of an inch off the bores ( steel or aluminium) to be stuffed and the same off the bearings which are smaller but do actually contains some metals that cooking utensils aren't made from.  That few thou of metal displaced is captured in the oil filters and divided between them and  20 or more oil changes. It does not take much imagination to envisage how minute the amounts of metal are in any given amount of oil nor the fact than much of that is going to be very non toxic metals like aluminum, copper and steel amount others.

These clowns also ignore the fact that this oil is burnt  by the thousands of gallons every day by vehicles as they just drive along the road. It's also dropped on the road and the thing that is of more concern to me  is the huge amounts of material that come off brakes and clutches.  Not hard to go through a set of pads in a year and there is infinitely more material  lost in a set of ftont pads than there is in probably 20 worn out engines.
Never hear the environmental nazis mentioning that though. They seem to mis or avoid facts and basic things that they can't sensationalise and blow out of proportion for their fear mongering purposes.

You'd think we were burning babies or Kittens Ed the way some of these ignorant twits carry on!    ::)


Why not put those vehicle electric fans on an aftermarket thermostat control to start at 220F ? Cleaner combustion, improved fuel efficiency  and longer engine life if operated only when required. In particular with the no stat operation.
   In fact I can't imagine any advantage to operating without a stat.
   It's common knowledge that fans and pumps push better than they pull.

EdDee

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 773
    • View Profile
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #368 on: June 29, 2016, 10:33:29 PM »
Hey B&D,

220F might b  a little high for a non pressurised system with minimal glycol to push up the boiling point... even at sea level... 195 to 200 would b a little safer I reckon... I have played the temperature games on my listeroid and found that there is a definite sweet spot to operating at slightly above pure water boiling point.. to get there, I pushed up the glycol content but found a small problem with hydronic cooling due to viscosity.. Until the coolant gets a little warmer than 40 or 50 C, it does not cycle very well and caused localised hot spotting and boiling in the head channels.. spectacular to say the least... let it warm up slowly under minimal load and things work very well, but it is not foolproof... me being the fool... I also played thermostat games and managed to get it tuned up quite well too.. but, for me, this was again not to my wanting as I have no over temp shutdown when things go awry if the thermostat decides to fail closed... I am considering a very simple auto-top-up type of arrangement for the system, as should I have a catastrophic leak/pipe failure, similar things could happen... I like simple, easy and lazy... I am considering a small and open header tank with a float valve that gets topped up from our water mains system, this will T feed into the cylinder head top pipe, should any pipe break in the system, besides the safety feed of course, cool water will flood the engine, make a hell of a puddle and attract attention.... hopefully! No damage through overheat happens, it simply over cools and life goes on...

Agreed regarding pumps etc pushing better than they suck, but that is in a closed system... at best you can only get 1 ATM worth of suck on something, then you get a vacuum... but, from the little bit of practical I have had over the years, I have just found, personally, that radiators are a damn side easier to cool using a plain unducted fan sucking air through, than making up many hours worth of ducting to get the same efficiency by using a push air system...a further benefit, for me anyway, with the roid, is because of the relatively exposed and plain radiator without shrouds and ducts to shield the core, even with the small amount of windage and breeze through and around the radiator, from flywheels and atmospherics, should the main fan fail, unless under close to maximum load, the cooling is sufficient on the average day to keep the boil and seize demons at bay...Bonus!

A properly designed and fully ducted and sealed, fan pressurised system would definitely out perform a fan evacuated system in cooling capability... but that is not what I am talking about... What I am talking about is a minimalistic, fan/radiator pair, no frills, fancies, ducts or other....a suck definitely beats a blow in my books!

Agreed to regarding some form of thermal switching to hold the cold demons back in their stall until they are required... This is particularly evident and witnessed on this Beastie of mine.... pointless for me to cool the coolant colder than the hot water its supposed to be heating(coolant heatex in system)....

Keep it cooking...

Cheers
Ed
12/1 750RPM/9HP Roid 5kVA- WMO Disposal/Electricity & Hot Water Gen
12/1 650RPM/8HP Roid 4.5kVa - Demon Dino
Chinese Yanmar - Silent Runner with AutoStart
Classic Komatsu 1963 Dozer/Fergusson 35 Gold Belly ...
Bikes,Cars,Gunsmithing & Paintball...Oh yes, a 5Ha open air Workshop to play in!

mike90045

  • Mendocino Metro
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1594
  • Mmmm BBQ
    • View Profile
    • Mikes Solar PV page
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #369 on: June 29, 2016, 11:40:31 PM »
>  We do throw all the oil in together at the yard, engine, trans, brake fluid, steer but never any water/ coolant.


How well does brake fluid fare in the mix?  I thought it was some other sort of stuff, because it sucks water out of the air if it can.

buickanddeere

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 807
    • View Profile
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #370 on: June 30, 2016, 01:03:29 AM »
  I made a mistake reading your post and thought there was no mechanical water thermostat on the truck.
  Of course the none pressurized roid is about limited to 210F or so even with a 50/50 mix.

EdDee

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 773
    • View Profile
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #371 on: July 02, 2016, 09:14:51 AM »
Hey guys,

After successfully pushing the wrong button and deleting the post I was busy with......

A rough guestimate of energy harvesting via hot water...(approximate numbers from yesterday's run, forgive me if I cocked up the calcs..)

Total water volume 300l
Start temp- 8c
End temp- 68c
Time taken-6 hrs
Energy-21kw total
Equates to about 3kwh ex exhaust and coolant recovery...

But.... temp was measured at tap after about 30m of uninsulated basement and outdoor copper run... and during the test there were a couple of showers and loads of dishes done... probably equates to around another 100l or so of cold water added to the system...Engine electrical loads were variable, but averaging at about 2.5kwh, fuel consumption is around 600ml per kWh of electrical produced...

It would be interesting to see the 'actual' energy harvesting if I could run the system in an off line mode without the variables creeping in...

Keep it cooking...

Cheers
Ed
12/1 750RPM/9HP Roid 5kVA- WMO Disposal/Electricity & Hot Water Gen
12/1 650RPM/8HP Roid 4.5kVa - Demon Dino
Chinese Yanmar - Silent Runner with AutoStart
Classic Komatsu 1963 Dozer/Fergusson 35 Gold Belly ...
Bikes,Cars,Gunsmithing & Paintball...Oh yes, a 5Ha open air Workshop to play in!

EdDee

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 773
    • View Profile
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #372 on: September 05, 2016, 11:15:13 AM »
Hey Guys,

Still here, still spinning over(slowly).... But a wee question about filter socks.....

I am building a pump from an old pneumatic cylinder, to transfer oil from collection drums through a sock filter I have built up, to go into final settling tanks prior to use. My question could be answered by the manufacturers of the sock filters, in fact they have, but I would rather trust you lads with the experience out there....

The sock filter, according to specs given, is easily capable of a running input pressure of around 2 bar. I would like to hear what pressure you experts are using as an input, to get the best particle retention on your sock filters/filter media.....

Keep it pumping....

Regds
Ed

PS - If anybody would like to see my enormously over designed  sock filter and housing, lemme know and I will post a few pics....
12/1 750RPM/9HP Roid 5kVA- WMO Disposal/Electricity & Hot Water Gen
12/1 650RPM/8HP Roid 4.5kVa - Demon Dino
Chinese Yanmar - Silent Runner with AutoStart
Classic Komatsu 1963 Dozer/Fergusson 35 Gold Belly ...
Bikes,Cars,Gunsmithing & Paintball...Oh yes, a 5Ha open air Workshop to play in!

Hugh Conway

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 529
    • View Profile
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #373 on: September 06, 2016, 12:44:40 AM »
Ed, I don't know anything about sock filters and waste oil, but can tell you that we use a 20 micron sock filter at about 4 bar in a clients deep well pumping system. This is within spec for potable water systems. The 4 bar is system pressure rather than delta P.
Cheers,Hugh
JKson 6/1  (Utterpower PMG ) Off-grid
Lister 6/1 Start-O-Matic engine......running with PMG
1978 Royal Enfield (glutton for punishment by Indian iron)
1963 BMW R-27 project

EdDee

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 773
    • View Profile
Re: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications
« Reply #374 on: September 06, 2016, 09:25:29 AM »
Hey Hugh,

Noted, the suppliers reckon up to about 4-8bar too... with a max delta of about 3 (this was guessed by them I think).... I reckon 2 bar should be safe enough to prevent a rupture, just concerned about material stretching and opening up the weave.... They reckon the filters are around 1-2 micron, but I have my doubts.... So far on low pressure, gravity fed filtration, they seem to work quite well, but I need to speed up the process a bit...

Cheers
Ed


12/1 750RPM/9HP Roid 5kVA- WMO Disposal/Electricity & Hot Water Gen
12/1 650RPM/8HP Roid 4.5kVa - Demon Dino
Chinese Yanmar - Silent Runner with AutoStart
Classic Komatsu 1963 Dozer/Fergusson 35 Gold Belly ...
Bikes,Cars,Gunsmithing & Paintball...Oh yes, a 5Ha open air Workshop to play in!