Author Topic: The Listeroid Chronicles-WMO and Other Listeroid Modifications  (Read 156534 times)

38ac

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Re: What If I did this?
« Reply #15 on: October 15, 2015, 03:22:11 PM »
many users of listeroids put little few hours on them so it would take some time for un-serviced bearing shells to raise an issue.


cheers,
veggie


That's my experience also, lots of indian engines around. Most owned by hobbyists with ideas that never got done. There are a few around that have some amount of hours on them and virtually none (by percentage) that have a history of long and hard work behind them.
Collector and horder of about anything diesel

EdDee

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Re: What If I did this?
« Reply #16 on: October 15, 2015, 05:05:09 PM »
Lets see how long this one of mine lasts, I am going to continue running it as long as it runs...I should have over 1200 hrs on it by month end if it lives that long... Last check was around 1000 as we stand now... I run it about 12 to 15 hrs a day... Hold thumbs!

She was running a bit smokey earlier today, very light pale grey, pushing about 5kW while processing the fuel gunk, boosted the water intake for an hour or so and she is breathing cleanly again... (Probs ran upwards of 40 or 50L maybe more of water through the intake in 90 mins)

Maybe I am just one of the lucky ones - I make her work hard and long - she seems to like it!!

From my little experience so far, it seems as if these girls like a long hard run to keep ticking over - anything less than about 4hrs per session leads to oil fouling and the like, with the associated induced faults to go with it - My unit only "calms down" after about 1/2 an hour of running and gets to full grunt after about an hour.... Coolant temps are within working limits quite quickly, but the lower case is barely warm for the first while... go figure...
 ;)
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glort

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Re: What If I did this?
« Reply #17 on: October 16, 2015, 02:44:05 AM »

The WMO I am using has everything from Dino, ULP to ATF and Paraffin mixed - little water or coolant as such - I simply keep the Visco around the 25-35 mark and it burns well - or appears to be so far .... Time will tell! 

When I first got into veg fuels I bought this crappy old heap ( and I can say with honesty my wife pushed me to buy it) and didn't expect it would last the rest of the rego.  In hindsight it was the best thing I ever did. Instead of being like everyone else pedantic about not hurting their engine, with me it became an experiment to see what would within reason. Nothing did. I tried WMO, ATF and blends of everything under the sun including industrial offset print washing solvent ( that was pretty damn good actually!) with up to 4 different components. I never had a problem with any of it.  I made sure it was filtered properly and there was no water and that was it.

Doing this also showed me what a lot of Bunk 95% of the veg oil mantra was. Heating the oil or not heating makes NO difference save for making the stuff flow through the fuel lines. I don't even agree with heating it to do that, much better to blend it with petrol/kero or diesel for those cold months when/ if it won't flow on it's own.

I also don't get this thing where people rant on about water in WMO.  It's drained from the sump, how would water get in there? The car would have to have a cracked block or blown head gaskets and I'm 99% sure the amount of vehicles getting around like that are not significant and even if they had that problem, there would still not me many dropping water in the oil.
I think the fuss made of this is mainly by people who are talking from their own fears rather than practice.
My father has a wrecking yard I get the oil from for my burners and I have yet to see ANY water in it yet.

Perhaps an amount of my success with breaking all the veg oil mandates is I Dry my fuel very thoroughly. Many people believe that settling alone will dry veg but that is totally incorrect. Veg will absorb dissolved water unlike other oils and although the large droplets will fall to the bottom, the amount of water in the oil can still be significant. To me drying is far more important than filtering. If you have wet oil it goes through your pump and injectors and causes all sorts of problems.  These problems will be unseen till the damage is significant and affects performance and cost thousands to fix.
If you have dirty oil, you get a blocked filter. Change the filter for $10 and it's good to go again.

I would think that potential damage to components aside, some water in the fuel would be a good thing. When I have not dried my oil through accident or intention, the performance fall off of the vehicles has been very noticeable. I can only put this down to the fuel metering is changed as there is a component of water rather than fuel.  With water injection I get the opposite result in performance improvement. I did tests on my first heap with and without WI and got a repeated over several different occasions result of 3/4 of a second IMPROVEMENT in 0-30 MPH times.


Quote
I have been expecting early cylinder/ring failure because of ash in the burnt residue - so far compression is reasonable to good, little blow by so Poseidon is doing his work(I hope) to help rid the exhaust stroke of nasty bits!!

When I was first looking at running WVO, this was something I questioned.  If you get a tablespoon of Diesel or bio or petrol and burn it over a blow torch, they all burn with no residue. WVO and WMO leave significant ash.
WVO first changes to a tar then a carbon like substance. Easy to see how this could stuff up piston rings.  For this reason I started running the WI in order to stop those deposits forming and remove any that had.
I notice when I first get a "new" car and fit the WI, the performance gradually improves. Might take 3 months to level out, might take 1 depending on how much and how far I am driving in that time and how far up I turn the WI. 

As for the ash itself, I can only assume this is blown out as particles in the exhaust. I imagine a small portion goes past the rings and into the oil as well.
The thing I think pretty much everyone has missed with running oil of any sort is the importance of NOT over fuelling an engine.  I made the mistake with my wifes Peugoet. wound it up and the thing would light up the tyres without problem but the thing was becoming harder and harder to start despite replaced GP's working properly.  I turned the fuel down and the water up to the point it would stutter if given full throttle and a short shift but it did eventually come good again and performance and starting improved even though the weather was getting cooler not hotter.

While everyone craps on about preheating the oil hotter than the sun, the real caution IMHO needs to be on the fueling. Most diesels will be set lean from the factory in my experience but those that are being over fuelled say in a lot of takeoffs in traffic are susceptible to clogging through this happening.
I don't think ash is the biggest problem, I don't know if it is actually abrasive, but as long as it is fully burnt to completion and blown out the exhaust, I would suspect the detriment is minimal

Quote
I have also expected IP and Injector problems due to the junk fuel - I am still sitting with a brand new Injector tip and 2xFuel pump elements as spare, waiting to install should the need arise, due to erosion by acidic WMO - It looks like the 100+C heating/cooling/settling routine is ridding the WMO of water and as such is limiting the effectiveness of the acids...

Yes, If I had a dollar someone went off at me that not heating my oil and starting on cold veg was going to ruin my engine, I could have bought 2 new cars by now. People go by what they think and what other people say rather than actually having the guts to try and test anything themselves. Hell, most of them don't even think through what they are doing and when you question them on it. they copied the guy that lives where it snows for 9 months of the year even though they live in a place where putting on a jumper is a rare thing.  People don't think things through. They are full of advise and knowledge based on their idea of reality but as for hands on testing of any kind, forget it.

As I said, I consider drying to be THE most important thing in fuel prep. Here's how I do my fuel:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQL5ff9ICUs

This is how I heat the oil in the processor with one of my waste Veg oil Burners:      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYOZJrIF2SE

Quote
My general thoughts on the lister motor are that it was designed to be simple, with simple maintenance, with simple fuels, to be run by the common man - with todays tech we are inducing more problems through our own cautiousness, albeit inadvertently, that the simple things are being overlooked and we expect the tech to take the place of the basic needs of the engine - Coolant, Fuel, Lubrication, Tight Bolts and dont let the first three mix amongst themselves!!

I agree. that's the whole attraction from my POV. That said. I have also come to think the China horozontal diesels to be even better in many regards. My experience with them has all been positive and I have seriously thought about getting rid of my roid and buying a bigger water cooled china type.  They come with a lot of spare parts which would require a lot of running in my experience before they were needed and the things are even easier to work on than the roids to me.  I have run mine with a variety of questionable fuels as well and they take them in their stride.


Quote
Anyways, enough rambling from my side.... time to earn a living i guess... 800L of fuel gunk just arrived, so i better get cooking!!


I found your " rambling" very interesting and look forward to reading more of it.  :0)

EdDee

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Re: What If I did this?
« Reply #18 on: October 16, 2015, 10:01:27 AM »
Ditto, ditto and yet ditto again....

Only one comment to add - In my experience with oils, from ATF, BRAKE, GEAR, HYDRAULIC, SUMP and DINO - all are capable of carrying a substantial amount of water while doing their job - The worst I have seen so far was when I drained the final box on my Komatsu bulldozer - 50 odd L or so of 30W - lovely brown colour - cooked it down by about 40% - yep - 40% of it was water held in suspension - got it past the chip fryer sound and popped it straight back in the box with 20L to top it off.

The last batch of fuel goop yielded about 5L suspended water in 60L of oils - it looks good when you put it in, but with a bit of heat, interesting things start to happen!

The final settling yielded about 500ml of water in the cool catch area of the cooker, it was drained off the bottom and was clear... We are fueling the old girl up to do the day's run as we speak... Lets see if she lasts the day!!

It is seems quite easy to see what blends you have in your recovered oil, albeit somewhat tedious - look for temperature plateaus while heating - lighter distillates will slow the temperature climbing as they boil off (you must be stirring it well for even heat distribution) - the most spectacular boil is round the 98 to 100C area when the water starts doing its thing (Best to add energy slowly around this temp) - Yesterday I kinda got involved with paperwork and telecalls while the main heaters were on, got to the cooker about 30sec too slowly and found a very dirty fuel processing machine with a catch tray doing its job! Yep, the water started to flash off and helped some sump gunk out of the overflow vents....

Spill contained 100%, simply reprocess once recovered, life goes on!

Lol
E
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Tom

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Re: What If I did this?
« Reply #19 on: October 16, 2015, 10:54:19 PM »
Tell us about how you hear and process your oil. I'm being given about 200 gal of k1 so no nees fot more fuel here for a few years.
Tom
2004 Ashwamegh 6/1 #217 - ST5 just over 3k hours.

EdDee

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Re: What If I did this?
« Reply #20 on: October 17, 2015, 09:02:03 AM »
I keep it simple... heat it to around 95C or so, hold it there until it stabilises, bump it up slowly to 100, once water is boiled off I push it up to 110 and hold it there for a while... stirring continuously ..... shut down the stirrer and let it cool... when it gets below 100 I start filtering it thru a 5 mic filter by gravity, leaving the last 25% to 30% in the tank.... I don't filter from the bottom, but about a 1/4 way up... once fully cooled any settled crap is drained off the bottom and the tank is filled for the next run.. I pump heat in via 2 elements, one of 4 or so kw, the other is 1.5 kw... both on for fast, big one only for slow, and small for holding and very slow heat up.. they are normal hot water elements, but the smaller is for hard water, so it has a lower heat density... total vol oil processed is about 70 L a batch or thereabouts..

Once all cooled and filtered, I adjust visco to about 25/35 and throw it in the tank.... usually use dino to adjust, RUG gives a bit of a knock ....

While heating, I am sure that the small percentage of RUG etc in the gunk is boiled off... these are quite minimal, hardly any odour too, and by the looks of it are not worth condensing for use as a dilutant later...

That's about it...

If you spot any things in my method that I have missed, let me know!

Regds
Ed

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EdDee

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Re: What If I did this?
« Reply #21 on: October 19, 2015, 09:28:05 AM »
In the spirit of "Lets see what we can get away with" - I pushed the boundaries a little too far!!

I filled up the WMO tank with pure, unthinned, but filtered and de-watered recovered sump oil - A mix of nasties that could quite easily be used as printer ink - The thickness was around the 40 to 45W mark, possibly a bit thicker even (fed into the injector at day temps around 25C) - The engine was already warmed up and I was pulling around 5 to 6kW electrical from it - I had the unit processing the next bunch of gunk - All went well......Until..... the load from the fuel processor dropped away, the fuel processing unit was at temperature.... it ran for maybe about an hour with no load and started to wet stack and blow smoke from the temps dropping away in the combustion chamber... No prob, I thought, a drop of water will sort this out when its up to load....

I re-loaded the genhead and started a heavy water injection cycle going(about 500  to 750ml water per minute for 15 mins or so) ... It helped, definitely, but did not clear the injector tip fully... I ran the rest of the afternoon and evening with the dirty injector (didn't feel like stripping it down so late in the day) and matters did not get any worse, nor better.

This morning I quickly pulled the injector and brushed the carbon off the tip - started on WMO from cold and there was mild smoke, a very pale grey, you had to look carefully to see it. I switched to Dino for a few mins to warm up and then back to WMO... Smoke gone!

This WMO is so thick, you can almost remove the fuel line from the pump and it only just flows through the filter... A handy trick - use a long, maybe 4ft heavy rubber fuel hose from the tank (1/4" ID) - the pump can scavenge the line and syphon the fuel in pulses, the line collapses slightly and then the filter catches up..

I also am naughty with the injector return line.... but that's another story....

So... to sum it up.... thick oil=high load only..... max it out to 30W fuel at 20C average for varying loads and it will keep spinning!! (With water of course!!)

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glort

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Re: What If I did this?
« Reply #22 on: October 19, 2015, 12:38:52 PM »

I re-loaded the genhead and started a heavy water injection cycle going(about 500  to 750ml water per minute for 15 mins or so)


Geez Louise, That IS a heavy water injection rate for that size and speed engine. I'm amazed it didn't stutter and blow water and steam out the exhaust!
I have run 3L engines doing over 2000 RPM at 500mL min and made them stutter and miss, I can't understand how you managed to get away with it on a roid. You must have been blowing steam and water at that rate!
There is no way my 4.2L diesel Truck would go near 750Ml min even at full tilt without bogging down and stuttering.

I was once trying to help a friend set up a WI system and told him to start with 300Ml a minute.  He got back to me saying as soon as he hit the water while driving along the thing stumbled and blew water and steam and became undriveable. I went over things with him repeatedly and kept asking him was he sure he was only spraying 300Ml a minute because what he was saying was not possible at that rate.  Finally I insisted he go out and check his delivery rate. Yep, it was spot on.
Spot on 3000 Ml Min!!  He said somewhere he got mixed up with the decimal point on the measuring scale he was using.  I was surprised he didn't blow the head gasket out the thing or worse. it was only a 2.7L engine to begin with.  People are always going on about the dangers of too much water but unless you dumped a bucket full in all at once, you get plenty of notice when you are over cooking things with the juice. 

glort

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Re: What If I did this?
« Reply #23 on: October 19, 2015, 01:19:41 PM »
I keep it simple... heat it to around 95C or so, hold it there until it stabilises, bump it up slowly to 100, once water is boiled off I push it up to 110 and hold it there for a while... stirring continuously .....


I only heat to a max of 75 due to concerns with the fact the pump I use is only rated to 40.
I use the pump to circulate the oil and spray it back into itself in a 200L drum. This pushes a lot of air through the oil to help evaporate the water. I got the ide from watching my kids get the garden hose on a jet and aim it into the swimming pool to create a sap like bubbling effect.  It works REALLY well for drying oil.  On a low humidity Summers day, I can get 200L of WVO to pass a hot pan test in 30 Min Without any heating at all.  That is good but rarely are the conditions right to make it dry so fast with no heat.  Where the humidity is higher it may take longer depending on the oil as well.  On hotter summer days I just let the processor run a few hours and it's good.
An essential part of the system is having a small fan suck the moisture laden air out of the drum. I keep the holes in the top of the drum small to avoid splashing so the fan removes the moisture laden air and replaces it with dry air to carry the humidity released away.

A really interesting thing I found with this was pushing and pulling the air through.  After using the setup very successfully for a couple of years and getting to know it well, I made the classic mistake of trying to improve the design.  A couple of things I did were good, mainly ergonomic in adding valves to make loading and unloading easier but a BIG mistake was making the fan blow into the drum rather than suck out.  I don't know why but pushing the air through just killed the drying time. I had the thing running for HOURS and still the oil wouldn't dry.  This happend with too many batches to be bad oil which I could pre test anyway to see where it was and I couldn't figure out the problem. I was heating the oil hot as ever and still it wouldn't dry within 10  times the period it did before.  Finally and in disbelief I turned the fan around again and bingo! The oil was dry as could be in an hour.

I can only make a guess that blowing air in some how allows the humidity in the air to go into the oil rather than pull the wet air out. Thinking it through in my mind it makes no sense, a gas flow should be a gas flow but I recreated the test enough times to prove it beyond belief.
One thing I did find going against that is if I have the burner running to heat the oil and I have the fan blowing into the drum and I put a piece of sheet metal across the back of the fan so it catches the exhaust heat from the side of the drum and pushes that in, The oil gets a real good head start on drying.  I assume this exhaust from the burner is completely moisture free so allows the humidity in the splashing oil to be picked up much easier.

The pump on my processor also filters the oil at the same time. the output is Te'd off and one side goes straight back to the squirter nozzle and the other goes through a 10" household water filter. I try to get 1UM cartridges but I rarely find them so use 5UM instead. I believe commercial fuel is only filtered to 10 UM which is also the rating of most fuel filters so I'm still ahead of the curve and the longevity of my on board filters would confirm that.  I have valves on both sides so I can run the squirter only such as when the oil is cold and I don't want the fats blocking the filter as they will do or it I want to run the oil through the filter only. I have the return from the filter detachable so I can use that hose to empty the processor through the filter and into my fuel drums. With pre settled oil or  pre filtered through some felt or material, I can get easily over 2000L  through a single $6 filter cartridge.  After about 2500L I usually get cold feet that maybe I didn't seat the filter right so I open the housing up to check.  The housing I have seems real good at self centering and I have never missed with it yet.  The flow may have slowed a bit by this time ( but only negligibly quite often but I change the filter then anyway thinking I have well got my moneys worth. 

I have noticed that heating the oil above ambient is very important also. Again I believe that also facilitates  the moisture from the oil being liberated into the passing airstream.
I used to make Biodiesel with a friend in 1000L batches. We dried the oil by boiling and stirring then one day I got the bright idea of throwing the grindstone he used as an airstone for bubble drying the finished bio into a drum of boiling oil. The amount of steam released was immediately noticeable by it's dramatically increased volume so we used to have 3 drums on the go and the last hottest one had the bubbler thrown in to finish it off very quick.  If you have a compressor or a good size aquarium pump like my mate had and use that with an airstone to do your stirring and take the moisture out of the oil, I'm sure you will find you can get your oil to pass a HPT much faster and also have it much drier than stirring alone.

I get my oil so dry with my processing  and drying setup, I can actually get a cupful and add 3 drops of water before it shows on a hot pan test.  A guy once demonstrated to me how he could get 4 drops of water in the oil he centrifuged before it showed.   I have boiled the crap out of oil and had it smoking for an hour and i still couldn't manage that trick.   :0)

EdDee

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Re: What If I did this?
« Reply #24 on: October 19, 2015, 08:57:13 PM »
Glort: I run heavy loads of water through the engine regularly, but keep an eye on the lube oil for emulsification. The exhaust blows plenty of steam, up to the point of water droplets being blown out...it gets quite messy when I give it a major flush out. The trick is to feed water in to the point that the rack maxes out as you do it... if revs start to fall away, back off the water slightly and hold it like that for half a min or so at a time... look out for cooling the chamber too much .... it will suddenly start passing lots of water out of the stack if you do. If this happens, shut the water downed for 5 mins or so to get the temps up and then repeat as you feel necessary...  Light doses of water on a continuous basis holds carbon down quite a bit, but every now and then a hard run on dino pee with a heavy water feed when the temps are up really seems to clean things out quite well. Water / steam cleaning the innards helps plenty, but often will not clean the tip of a badly fouled injector... it needs a good injection pattern to do its work, or so it seems to me. Point in case being this a.m. when I cleaned the injector manually before the days run. Once cleaned, I started her on wmo saw she was a bit sooty, swopped to dinopee for a few min, then back to wmo for the day.. I refilled the tank with the 43W goop and she has been running fine all day, but a little grey smoke with an oily whiff on and off... I am going back to 30w tomorrow and will advise how it turns out.

Regds
Ed
12/1 750RPM/9HP Roid 5kVA- WMO Disposal/Electricity & Hot Water Gen
12/1 650RPM/8HP Roid 4.5kVa - Demon Dino
Chinese Yanmar - Silent Runner with AutoStart
Classic Komatsu 1963 Dozer/Fergusson 35 Gold Belly ...
Bikes,Cars,Gunsmithing & Paintball...Oh yes, a 5Ha open air Workshop to play in!

EdDee

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Re: What If I did this?
« Reply #25 on: October 19, 2015, 09:38:53 PM »
Glort, I like your drying method, but it doesn't work for me here in Za... the Rh was around 90% today, so chip fryer method is about all I can do until I make a fuge.... good thing is, I get lots a heat into the exhaust so extra hot showers in the eve... lol... For a stirring pump, I found an old lathe coolant pump... its perfect, I could probs stir lead with it because the impeller is not in contact with the volute at all... it is a long shaft too, so the motor is far enough away from 120c to survive... I also circulate the air, but by convection... try it... just put a 3ft chimney in place of the fan for when u heat the oil, it draws quite nicely, but not too much either, so u lose less heat... fans work best when sucking air out, rather than blowing air into a vessel, hence your improved drying... try blowing air thru a radiator to see the cooling difference compared to sucking it thru....

I only filter once, on the way out of the tank... this is thru a std 1191A fuel cartridge, but I do go thru a strainer first inside the tank and over a solids trap on the way... This is all done at as close to 100C that I can, at that temp, even 50W is about as thin as water... I process about 50 to 70 L at a time, so each batch runs me at least 3 days on average... 

Air circ  helps plenty with drying... I don't do it as a rule because of the hi rh around here and the chance of spillage because of the small processor I am using... Up to now, there has been very little residual moisture that I have picked up... Hopefully I am drying it enough! I am a firm believer in not using the absolutely last juice out the can... that last 200 ml or so is where the water hides ... try for yourself some time... throw the last 100 ml or so into a clear jar every time u fill the tank from a can... any missed moisture will show up! So far, I haven't had probs with damp fuel, but water dropping out of saturated fuel, has caused major shit.... And that was the only fuel I bought for the beast... Go figure... I think Herr Otto was sending me a message ;)

L8rs...
Ed
12/1 750RPM/9HP Roid 5kVA- WMO Disposal/Electricity & Hot Water Gen
12/1 650RPM/8HP Roid 4.5kVa - Demon Dino
Chinese Yanmar - Silent Runner with AutoStart
Classic Komatsu 1963 Dozer/Fergusson 35 Gold Belly ...
Bikes,Cars,Gunsmithing & Paintball...Oh yes, a 5Ha open air Workshop to play in!

mike90045

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Re: What If I did this?
« Reply #26 on: October 20, 2015, 07:38:34 AM »
Tell us about how you hear and process your oil. I'm being given about 200 gal of k1 so no nees fot more fuel here for a few years.

K1 - is that plain kerosene ?  do you need to add 2-stroke lube oil to it ?

EdDee

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Re: What If I did this?
« Reply #27 on: October 20, 2015, 10:01:51 AM »
Not familiar with K1 - Glort, please enlighten!
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Tom

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Re: What If I did this? (Otherwise known as "Breaking the Rules")
« Reply #28 on: October 20, 2015, 07:39:37 PM »
Yes K1 is kerosene which is a bit lighter than diesel and has less lubricating properties. The plan is to buy 20 gal of B20 and mix that with it to keep the IP lubricated. It also comes with a nice 275 gal heating oil tank. My mom bought a new house and the oil heater is being changed to LP.
Tom
2004 Ashwamegh 6/1 #217 - ST5 just over 3k hours.

EdDee

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Re: What If I did this? (Otherwise known as "Breaking the Rules")
« Reply #29 on: October 21, 2015, 09:45:19 AM »
Earlier, I mentioned a naughty bit of engineering/plumbing for the injector return line - here it is:

I have 2 tanks on the rattler, one of about 30L and the other is the original head mounted unit. I have kept the original in place and installed a + shaped fitting with a ball valve on the L & R arms - the top goes to the injector return line, the bottom goes to the IP...

Advantages: Remove the LHS Pipe to the ball valve coming from the external tank and the tank can be removed while the clunker is spinning... Same applies to the RHS onboard tank.

To bleed the tank lines, simply loosen the IP return line and the air is let out (The + fitting is about level with the IP, so the return line is the highest point in the line on the motor, but below the tank levels.)

To fill the onboard tank is easy, simply open both valves with or without the beast chugging and the big tank (higher than the onboard) backfills through the filter....(this also has the advantage of back flushing the onboard original filter to the tank too...gunk can be bottom syphoned out of it if needed)

The remote, big tank, also has a 7mic absolute filter on it.....

I often, particularly on my refining setup, backwash the filters with already filtered fuel - initially I was replacing a filter on the refiner every 150L or so, now, 500L later, the same filter is still up to spec and doing its job....

Disadvantages: A air leak will be hard to find - keep all piping below the level of your tanks so no negative pressure in the lines is the norm...Its easier to spot a drip than to listen for a joint sucking air!

The weather has been warm here for the past few days, about 25C or so, I have put about 100L of unthinned 40-50W fuel through the green machine with no major ill effects noted barring a slightly harder start up and one bit of injector carbon from running unloaded for an hour...

Hold thumbs - Just past the 1100hr mark now and the next oil change is due!! (On that note - I have no lube oil thinning because of the heavy fuel I am running...Bonus!)

 
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