Author Topic: Yet more CS questions!  (Read 6861 times)

dieselspanner

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Yet more CS questions!
« on: March 31, 2015, 08:48:14 PM »
Hi All

I've boiled the big bits in a 40 gallon barrel full of caustic soda, pressure washed it off and started cleaning it all up.....

First question, I have read that the 8/1 has an aluminium piston with 4 rings, the 6/1 an iron one with 5. I have an iron one with 4 plain rings., it fits well, the top 3 rings 'gapped' at around 20 thou'', the bottom was well worn and 'gapped' at around 90 thou''

Any ideas?

Also at the top of the crankcase is stamped J 84, would this have been a 'witness' from the original builder?

As it's a 'bitza' (1934 ish hopper cooled crank case, Lord know what on top!) what spec. should I rebuild to?, I'd like a 6/1 driving a 4 kva ish alternator............

Cheers Stef
Tighten 'til it strips, weld nut to chassis, peen stud, adjust with angle grinder.

dieselgman

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Re: Yet more CS questions!
« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2015, 09:55:28 PM »
What is your bore diameter? Sounds like your oil scraper is way out of spec.

dieselgman
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dieselspanner

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Re: Yet more CS questions!
« Reply #2 on: March 31, 2015, 10:50:52 PM »
Hi

It's a 4 1/2" bore, the bottom ring isn't an 'oil' ring, but a well worn standard keystone.

I've been reading some of the old posts and there's mention of the 'splash' plate in the sump not being introduced until much later, does this mean I've got a case of 'Badge Engineering' on top of everything else!!

Anyway I'm still having fun.

Cheers Stef
Tighten 'til it strips, weld nut to chassis, peen stud, adjust with angle grinder.

dieselgman

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Re: Yet more CS questions!
« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2015, 01:10:17 AM »
Your bottom ring must be the special oil-scraper (you will immediately see that it has large slotted openings all around its circumference to allow oil to flow back into the piston relief oil holes)... The tapered keystone is designed for the fire-ring only. Normally these use two oil-scrapers one is rigid and one is conformable. I would say someone patched her up with whatever they had around regardless of whether it was right or not.

I do not remember when the splash-plate was introduced. I would not be too worried about what might have been swapped out in the past, but bring her back to what your model is specified by Lister documentation to have installed.

dieselgman
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38ac

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Re: Yet more CS questions!
« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2015, 01:58:25 AM »
I am not certain exactly when the splash plate was introduced either? I once owned a very original 1938 production 6/1 and it had one. I read in Edgington's books that oil control was a problem early on thus I suspect that the plate came into being very early in production.
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Aphrael

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Re: Yet more CS questions!
« Reply #5 on: July 27, 2015, 04:56:43 PM »

I've boiled the big bits in a 40 gallon barrel full of caustic soda, pressure washed it off and started cleaning it all up.....



Hi Stef, I'm starting work to spiff up a tired looking Lister CS.  Can you tell me, did the caustic boil do a good job of cleaning the rust/crud/scale out of the coolant passages?

John

Dieselsmoker

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Re: Yet more CS questions!
« Reply #6 on: July 30, 2015, 08:55:55 AM »
Quote
Hi Stef, I'm starting work to spiff up a tired looking Lister CS.  Can you tell me, did the caustic boil do a good job of cleaning the rust/crud/scale out of the coolant passages?

Hi John.
I've never used caustic soda before, but I can report that I have successfully used Hydrochloric acid (Pool acid) to clean out scale in the coolant passages. Cover the bore with a nice layer of grease and place the whole cylinder in a bucket. Fill up with water and add a litre or more pool acid. Stir it up a bit and let it sit for a few hours. When you take it out you must rinse it with clean water to get rid of the acid and then get into those passages with a high pressure washer. If you repeat the process, remember to grease the bore again.

I probably don't need to say this, but be careful with the acid. It's real nasty stuff on skin, eyes and clothing. Lots of running water nearby is your best friend. Pool acid is normally in a diluted state already when you buy it at the supermarket, but best practice is to add the acid to the water, not the other way round. (To remember this rule, think of pool maintenance - you always add the acid to the pool).
    
On my previous project (The Fairbanks-Morse), the engine was more rust than engine... for this I set up a electrolysis tank and it works great!!! You just need patience, but since my projects usually span over many months, it was no issue for me. Some parts sat in the tank for weeks at a time. The reason is because I used a low current setup. High current setups dramatically speed up the electrolysis process - but that requires a big (expensive) transformer.
« Last Edit: July 30, 2015, 08:58:16 AM by Dieselsmoker »
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Jordan

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Re: Yet more CS questions!
« Reply #7 on: July 30, 2015, 04:59:04 PM »
The caution about HCl (hydrochloric acid) is good advice. Wear glasses & gloves with this stuff, and no clothes you plan to keep.
I'd also suggest, after a good rinse of the acid-treated parts, to give a treatment with something alkaline - maybe washing soda or dilute caustic soda - to neutralise the acid.

Acid is good for rust - it virtually evaporates it.
Alkali is good to degrease.

Jordan